1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Help - line out's RSN E MKII

Discussion in 'In-Car Entertainment' started by Raincheck, Apr 16, 2013.

  1. Raincheck
    Offline

    Raincheck Sucking diesel..!

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Messages:
    99
    Likes Received:
    13
    Hi forum,

    Hopefully somebody can shine some light on this.
    I would like to hook-up 2 Focal amps (2 channel for the front, 3 channel for the back & sub)
    There for I need to find the line out's of the RSN E MKII, below I marked the pin numbers.

    Section B
    3 - Line Out FL (front left audio signal)
    5 - Line Out RL (rear left audio signal)
    8 - Line Out GND (audio ground)
    9 - Line Out FR (front right audio signal)
    11 - Line Out RR (rear right audio signal)

    So far it seems straight forward 4 line-out's(+) and 1 line-out GND (is this a common(-) for all 4 line-out's ?)
    What happens with the amplified front speakers when I want to use the line-out's only, do I have to terminate them?

    Section D
    13 - U14 ST DSP (Radio On) (remote “on” lead for rear amp)
    I believe this one is to switch on the amps (the main + will be separate, fused from the battery)


    Quadlock connector (http://bublin.eu/car/rns-e diagram.pdf)


    B. EXT Control Connector (CD Changer, PhatBox,
    OEM SAT tuner etc.) (Female pins/wires: #000-979-009)
    1 - Most Ring break (NC)
    2 - CDC-NF GND (audio ground for CD changer)
    3 - V-Signal (analog speed signal/GALA)
    4 - U14R-2 (Constant power source for CD changer etc)
    5 - K-Line (K-line diagnostic; VAGCOM)
    6 - CDC-Data out (CDC data out)
    7 - BOSE Pin (used if you have a Bose system)
    8 - CDC-NF L.IN (cd changer left audio in)
    9 - CDC-NF R. IN (cd changer right audio in)
    10 - U14 ST CDC (Ignition/accessory power for CD changer)
    11 - CDC -Data IN (cd changer data input)
    12 - CDC- Data CLK (cd changer clock input)


    A: Speaker Connecter (front passive speakers) Not to be used with amps
    (Female pins/wires: #000-979-133)
    1 - N.C.
    2 - Right Front (+) not used with amps
    3 - Left Front (+) not used with amps
    4 - N.C.
    5 - N.C.
    6 - Right Front (-) not used with amps
    7 - Left Front (-) not used with amps
    8 - N.C.


    C: EXT Control Connector (For Bose or
    Non-Bose Amp, telephone interface)
    (Female pins/wires: #000-979-009)
    1 - *MIC IN (-)
    2 - RFSL (Analog reverse signal)
    3 - Line Out FL (front left audio signal)
    4 - *MIC Out (-)
    5 - Line Out RL (rear left audio signal)
    6 - TEL NF IN (-) (Telephone speaker negative input)
    7 - *MIC IN (+)
    8 - Line Out GND (audio ground)
    9 - Line Out FR (front right audio signal)
    10 - *MIC Out (+)
    11 - Line Out RR (rear right audio signal)
    12 TEL NF IN (+) (Telephone speaker positive input)


    D: Power Connector (Female pins/wires: #000-979-133)
    9 - CAN-H (CANbus High signal)
    10 - CAN-L (CANbus Low signal)
    11 - TEL-Mute (Telephone mute connection)
    12 - Kl.31 (Primary ground connection)
    13 - U14 ST DSP (Radio On) (remote “on” lead for rear amp)
    14 - DWA-GND (Alarm ground)
    15 - Kl.30 (Constant 12V power source)
    16 - U14R-1 (N.C.)

    conn.jpg

    I am planning if I can use the line-out's to get a male and female Quadlock connector and wire them accordingly so I don't have to cut the original loom or is it possible to remove section C and just buy that part, that brings me to the next question.

    Where can I buy a a male and female Quadlock connector and or just the sections online?

    Thanks in advance,
    Rick...
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2013
    #1
  2. Raincheck
    Offline

    Raincheck Sucking diesel..!

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Messages:
    99
    Likes Received:
    13
    Anybody,

    What's the best output here?
    There must be a rca like output at least for the back door speakers and subwoofer.
    #2
  3. jb0o
    Offline

    jb0o North East Forum Moderator Regional Rep Site Sponsor

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2009
    Messages:
    2,615
    Likes Received:
    104
    I can't comment on the audio side as I have no idea unfortunately.

    Connector-C from the RNS-E just clips out easily. The part number of the connector is 3B7 035 447 B.
    #3
  4. Raincheck
    Offline

    Raincheck Sucking diesel..!

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Messages:
    99
    Likes Received:
    13
    Thanks for your help jb0o gonna order one.
    #4
  5. Raincheck
    Offline

    Raincheck Sucking diesel..!

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Messages:
    99
    Likes Received:
    13
    #5
  6. AndyMac
    Offline

    AndyMac Moderator Staff Member Moderator

    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2003
    Messages:
    9,833
    Likes Received:
    30
    Yes Audio GND is the screen and is common for front and rear, left & right.
    The unused front speaker connections can either be unplugged, or if you are splicing into the loom at some point you just need to isolate any cut wires.
    #6
  7. Raincheck
    Offline

    Raincheck Sucking diesel..!

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Messages:
    99
    Likes Received:
    13
    Thanks Andy....
    #7
  8. Raincheck
    Offline

    Raincheck Sucking diesel..!

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Messages:
    99
    Likes Received:
    13
    Okay time for a update,

    So far I have spent:

    €610 - 4 door speakers and 1 sub woofer (all Focal)
    €480 - 2 amps 1x 2 channel 1x 3 channel (all Focal)
    €200 - sound deadening
    € 30 - Audi Endstufen Adapter Navigationseinheit RNS-E
    €120 - MDF enclosure for sub woofer (replaces the plastic one)
    € 80 - MDF front&back speaker adapters 6.5
    € 72 - 3 X FOCAL RCA ER5
    € 60 - 2 X 12m FOCAL FLAT SPEAKER CABLE PS 25
    € 22 - 2 way splitter block fused
    -------------------------------+
    €1674 (Not included the Audi RSN E MKII)

    So it better be good very good!

    Ps. all the prices above include shipping to Dublin Ireland
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2013
    #8
  9. jb0o
    Offline

    jb0o North East Forum Moderator Regional Rep Site Sponsor

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2009
    Messages:
    2,615
    Likes Received:
    104
    Wow.. wanna see some youtube footage when its up and running. Preferably with a rather busty girl sitting on the woofer :)
    #9
  10. Raincheck
    Offline

    Raincheck Sucking diesel..!

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Messages:
    99
    Likes Received:
    13
    Will do:)

    As soon as I am starting the installation i'll keep a log and take photo's and post them.
    #10
  11. jb0o
    Offline

    jb0o North East Forum Moderator Regional Rep Site Sponsor

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2009
    Messages:
    2,615
    Likes Received:
    104
    Excellent. I'm not experienced in the ICE side of things so would be good to get a take on it. Subscribed!
    #11
  12. Raincheck
    Offline

    Raincheck Sucking diesel..!

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Messages:
    99
    Likes Received:
    13
    Hi again,

    Before I am going to take the car apart can I ask what/where is the best place for the amps.

    The 2 channel amp (front speakers)( Dimensions (HxWxD): 2-3/8 x 8-3/16 x 7-11/16“ (60x234x195mm))
    Can I place this somewhere hidden behind the dash?

    The 3 channel amp (back & sub) (Dimensions (HxLxD): 23/8x143/4x711/16“ - (60x375x195mm))
    Can I place this one opposite the Sub woofer by removing the right hand panel in the boot of the car?

    Thanks in advance.
    #12
  13. jb0o
    Offline

    jb0o North East Forum Moderator Regional Rep Site Sponsor

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2009
    Messages:
    2,615
    Likes Received:
    104
    You'll be pushed to put the 2-channel behind the dash. I'd put this under the passenger seat like I do with my bluetooth modules.

    Not sure on the space to the right. Can't remember whats behind there! Only secured by 1x T25 screw though so its pretty easy to get to.
    #13
  14. Raincheck
    Offline

    Raincheck Sucking diesel..!

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Messages:
    99
    Likes Received:
    13
    jbOo can I ask how did you mount your modules under the seat?
    #14
  15. Raincheck
    Offline

    Raincheck Sucking diesel..!

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Messages:
    99
    Likes Received:
    13
    Focal 4100 3 channel set-up

    4100_focal.jpg
    #15
  16. jb0o
    Offline

    jb0o North East Forum Moderator Regional Rep Site Sponsor

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2009
    Messages:
    2,615
    Likes Received:
    104
    Looking good mate.

    I removed the passenger seat, removed the passenger side lower A-trim, removed the sill trim and peeled the carpet back and removed the foam block and cut into it so install the module.
    #16
  17. Raincheck
    Offline

    Raincheck Sucking diesel..!

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Messages:
    99
    Likes Received:
    13
    Thanks jbOo,

    Yesterday I got the Focal 2100 it's much bigger then I thought so it needs to live under the seat.
    Tomorrow I get the Focal 4100 and is again bigger then the 2100.

    Anyway hope for a dry weekend so I can start this project.

    Rain.
    #17
  18. jb0o
    Offline

    jb0o North East Forum Moderator Regional Rep Site Sponsor

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2009
    Messages:
    2,615
    Likes Received:
    104
    Sounds good.

    There is plenty of room under the carpet, you'll just need to cut away at the foam!
    #18
  19. Raincheck
    Offline

    Raincheck Sucking diesel..!

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Messages:
    99
    Likes Received:
    13
    Okay,

    Got almost everything now (OMG the Focal 4100 is big) including all the Focal triple shielded RCA cables + Focal performance 2,5mm speaker cable, 2 way fused distribution block 30 amps, 4 gauge power cable, 1 x 80 amps fuse holder & fuse plus loads of smaller items like cable ties, grommets and terminals.

    Now it's waiting for the last part: Audi Terminal Adapter unit RNS-E from Kufatec it is in transit let's hope it's here on Friday!

    I am ready for it but never did a job like this before.

    Rain....
    #19
  20. jb0o
    Offline

    jb0o North East Forum Moderator Regional Rep Site Sponsor

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2009
    Messages:
    2,615
    Likes Received:
    104
    Look forward to see the progress. Make sure to take a lot of photos :D
    #20
  21. Raincheck
    Offline

    Raincheck Sucking diesel..!

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2013
    Messages:
    99
    Likes Received:
    13
    FYI
    (for novice installers like me)


    Steps


    1) Have all components, tools ready and checked. This includes drills, drill bits, island keys, and wrenches. But most importantly, make sure you have the correct wires for the job.

    Connecting Multiple Amps


    1) Gather the necessary materials. Remember that each amp needs a power, a ground, and a REM (remote) wire going through them.


    2) The best way to connect multiple amps when it comes to REM, is through one remote wire. Since the remote wire basically tells the amp when the radio is on, all amps can be connected to the same remote wire.


    3) Best thing to do is for power wire is connect each amp with a separate power using a distribution block, which is essentially a casing that allows one wire to supply power to multiple wires (one wire from the battery goes in and three wires can come out).


    4) Connect one power wire (wire that connects from the battery to the amps) to your distribution block. Your thickest or lowest gauge wire should be your main one.


    5) Have the the remaining wire go to each amp as a power wire.


    6) Make sure each amp has its own separate ground. just ground it to any piece of metal. Wire can burn and melt if too much current is running through it so one wire is your best bet.


    Multiple Sub woofers


    1) Know your amps' and sub woofers' limits. This is crucial to achieve perfect precision with 4, 6, and 8 or more sub woofers.
    An amp that is rated at 1000w RMS (Root Mean Square, or the average watt the speaker is intended to receive and play with) set for 1 ohm can power two 2-ohm subs rated at 500w RMS.


    That same amp can power four 4ohm subs and so forth. But the more subs an amp is placed on, the less power it can give to each individual sub. This is not necessarily a bad thing if you have a 2000w RMS amp and two 600w RMS subs. In fact, you always want the power from the amp to be slightly higher than what the sub(s) requires; a 1000w amp will work well with a 7 or 800W RMS sub. Just make sure that the sub's peak power is rated above 1000w. If rated under, make sure your amp's level is not too high as you can damage the sub.


    If you have a really powerful amp that's 3000w RMS or higher, then you can really power multiple subs at once without any problem. Just make sure the subs don’t combine to read at 0.5 ohm (a dangerous level for an amp, unless it specifies that it can run at that low ohm level) and all your wires are properly connected and wired.


    2) Connect all subs to the same terminals in the amp. However, depending on whether you wish to connect them in series or parallel or bridge the amp, you may only use two terminals. Refer to your amp's diagram for more specifics.


    Multiple Mid's and High's


    1) These are also known as "door speakers", "vocal speakers", "6 by 5" or "6 by 9" and more. If you're trying to install more than what your car originally came with, the same rules should be applied to those of subs.


    2) Make sure your 4-channel amp can play them all without being so powerful that they damage the speakers. Because most speakers are rated to 8 ohms, you can generally connect many speaker to one amp without any problems.


    3) Connect all mid's and high's with the same power and ground. All cars have pre-wired powers and grounds that go through the doors and the back dash. It would be foolish to run multiple wires through your door and dash to play multiple speakers with such low wattage.


    4) Connect all speakers through the adjacent speakers that are pre-wired through the car. Just make sure the power and ground are positioned properly throughout the process.


    Multiple Wires


    1) Follow the general rule: for power, ground and speaker wires, the lower the number and thicker the wire, the better. (Remote and RCA wires are always small.) People tend to underestimate the amount and size of wires that they need when installing many components in a car audio systems.


    If you have the chance of using 6-gauge wires as your power instead of 8, then do so. It may save you a lot of time and money.


    2) Always use the biggest but most appropriate wire in case you decide to upgrade your sound system. If you previously had a 1000W system, then that 8 gauge wire may work. But if you upgrade to more powerful amps and subs, say 3000w, that 8 gauge will burn and melt in no time at all. Then you will have to remove it, and rewire the car with 2 gauge wire. If you have a feeling that you may go bigger in the future, chose bigger wire.


    Multiple Wires can lead to ground noise. People with many components and wires running through their car can easily end up getting "ground noise," which is the whining sound that plays through your speakers and rises and falls with the rev of your engine.
    Although there are many products that claim to reduce ground noise, the best method is positioning the main power wire and RCAs/4-channel amps as far away from each other as possible.


    A large power wire can create massive amounts of electromagnetic interference that can be picked up by RCA's of a 4-channel, and subsequently relayed back through the radio and mid's and high's as ground noise. Fix the problem by running the power wire to the left of the driver side seat and placing the amp and RCA's under the passenger seat.


    3) Make everything color coded and neat. If power is red wire, ground is black, and remote is blue, then you will have an easier time keeping track of your wires and what they connect to. Otherwise, if one amp fails, you may find yourself overwhelmed and needlessly tearing out wires.


    Multiple Batteries and Capacitors


    1) Determine whether you need multiple batteries and capacitors. If you have a 3000w amp playing three 1000w subs, but they really sound weak, then it's time to get more power. Alternatively, play the bass as loud as you can and see if your dome lights dim or not. If they barely flicker, then your power is manageable, but if they almost go dark with each bass note, then it's time for more power.


    2) There are three ways to go: capacitors, alternators, and batteries. Capacitors are usually small cylinders that come with a digital display showing your voltage in your car. They are rated by Farad's and the higher they are, the better the cap can store and release volts.


    Be warned: many capacitors are nothing more than expensive voltage meters. They are for very minor power problems and simply add a more sophisticated look to an audio system. A 1-farad capacitor could potentially cost hundreds of dollars and not solve any power problems.


    The ideal voltage for a car audio system varies. For a low-end system, 13.5-13.7 is just fine. For average systems, 13.8-14 is good, but for high-end audio systems, 14.4 and above is where you want to be.


    Your voltage should not drop below 12 volts, as that’s an indication of a big power problem. Anything below 9 is extremely bad and should not be used until more power is added. You may completely drain your existing car battery and render it useless.


    3) The cheapest way to fix a major power problem is with more batteries. Although wet cells can be used, they could spill battery acid in your car if they leak. Dry cell batteries are a better choice if you can afford them. Dry cells have no battery acid and are extremely safe in a vehicle. # To install multiple batteries (or capacitors), connect the main battery in the engine bay with the another one elsewhere in the car that has a large, low gauge wire (like a 4 or 2).


    4) Systematically connect the next battery by running a wire from the first battery power, to the second battery power, and so on until you reach the last battery.


    5) Connect the last battery to the amp(s) with a separate wire. Connect the batteries in the car with a large ground wire and ground it in metal. You don’t have to run it into the engine bay; any good metal ground will do.


    Be sure to put them in a sequence: first battery connected to the main in engine bay and last battery connected to the amp(s).


    6) You can upgrade your alternator, if you don’t want numerous batteries or capacitors to take up space in your car.
    By getting a larger alternator that puts of more amperage, your battery will be continuously and quickly charged.


    Whenever massive amounts of power is needed, it's directed from the alternator much more than the battery, giving you more power.
    A good 220-amp alternator can really make a difference in sound quality and bass. You just have to find it for a good price and have it installed.


    Finishing Touches


    1) Check and double-check all connections. Before you turn on your car, make sure all connections are solid and correct.

    2) Make sure all amps are properly grounded and REMnd.

    Excess wire should not be sticking out and relatively close other wires of different charge. Use fuses for all battery to amp connections. If you blow a 60- or 80-amp fuse just by listening to music, then check specialty stores for 200- and 300-amp fuses.


    3) Finally, use electrical tape (your best friend when dealing with wire) to cover up exposed wire. A thin strip can stop your entire system from being nothing but overpriced junk.

    Warnings


    THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT WARNING!!!!. cars were never meant to hold 10 speakers (bass and vocal) and as such, cars are ill equipped to deal with the major power demands that come with thousands of watts of power. even with one or two batteries, caps, or even two alternators, you may not produce the amps/volts that your cars original electric system + sound system require to keep it running and major damage can occur to your original electrical equipment because of lack of power. wires may burn, existing batteries may die, alternator might be shot, and the car may have cranking problems or not crank at all. if you wish to go through with adding a serious sound system, get ready to shell out the money it takes to power it. "bass heads" may have 3 alternators, 5 batteries, and 5 caps all in one car just to keep it properly powered (and a professional car charger just it case it still dies). resulting in close to £1500 in power equipment just to keep the car on! the more components you put in a car, the more money you must spend on power to keep it running.


    The simplest, but ill-advised, method for connecting multiple amps is to connect the wire to the amp, and through the same terminal, have another wire extend out to the next amp. However, many complications can arise from using one wire to power many amps. Unless you really need to, do not get multiple batteries or capacitors. This is by far the most dangerous aspect of any high-end car audio system, as it can literally ruin equipment if not properly installed.


    Dry cell batteries are better than wet cell batteries because the latter could spill battery acid in your car if they leak. Dry cell batteries do not contain battery acid.


    A big problem many people make is accidentally connecting the ground to the 12v power in the amp and vice-versa. If your amp does not have a good protect system, it could easily blow because of a silly mistake.

    Grtx Rain
    Last edited: May 2, 2013
    #21
    NHN and jb0o like this.

Share This Page