Help identifying LEDs

[SCFC_Messiah]

Sorry, it appears I'm a complete idiot. I've bought a host of bulbs of Trups (who's on holidays for a few weeks, which is why I'm asking you guys for help instead) for both the interior and exterior of my car. I think I've worked out which bulbs are which, but I'm just after some confirmation on a few of them (especially the festoon type bulbs). I don't have the car for a few days, so can't go take a look myself

A - LED Sidelights?

B - Glove Box light?

C - Rear number plate light (x2) and front interior roof light (x2)?

D - Sun visor vanity light (x2) and rear interior roof light (x2)?

Thanks very much

 

[NHN]

Glovebox light, cut end of & solder wires to the metal contacts, if you have door lights as well for back of & underneath, cut & solder these as well, much better.

Also put some a strip of black electrical tape over the back of the pcb for these ones so when pushed into the plastic housing, it doesn't short on the metal contacts should they become loose & also helps them to stay tight fitting.

 

[SCFC_Messiah]

Good tip regards the electrical tape, thanks


I also have a boot light which is similar in style to the glove box light, (it was labelled 'boot' so even an idiot like myself could identify it ).... I presume I should solder this directly to the metal contacts, too?

 

[ScottD3]

There should be no soldering required with trups kits unless he told you directly to do so.

All the bulbs you have posted in the pics looks like they should be simple plug and play.
Not sure why you would need to solder any of them.

 

[NHN]

I advise this because the contacts are not the best to fit, done several cars now & the best way to get the best conductivity & not be shook loose from the terrible roads is to cut ends of & solder, tried/tested & Trups & me have discussed this, to which he is looking at to revise a bit, as per my advisory for the tape & contacts, whether he does or not is his decision, but cars I've done will not come loose.

 

[ScottD3]

I advise this because the contacts are not the best to fit, done several cars now & the best way to get the best conductivity & not be shook loose from the terrible roads is to cut ends of & solder, tried/tested & Trups & me have discussed this, to which he is looking at to revise a bit, as per my advisory for the tape & contacts, whether he does or not is his decision, but cars I've done will not come loose.

That makes sense.
The single pin design of the 501 is a poo. I've used bladed designs before and they work a lot better, no change of them moving or falling out.

 

[SCFC_Messiah]

Thanks both. I don't trust myself not to f*ck something up if I'm let loose with a soldering iron, so I think I'll try plug and play first and see how it goes

Out of interest though, I seem to remember LED circuits are polarity sensitive? If so, are the cars contacts labelled positive and negative so I know which way to wire it?

 

[Danny-boy]

Thanks both. I don't trust myself not to f*ck something up if I'm let loose with a soldering iron, so I think I'll try plug and play first and see how it goes

Out of interest though, I seem to remember LED circuits are polarity sensitive? If so, are the cars contacts labelled positive and negative so I know which way to wire it?

Try it first!!!! If it doesn't work, turn it round.

 

[NHN]

I also have a boot light which is similar in style to the glove box light, (it was labelled 'boot' so even an idiot like myself could identify it ).... I presume I should solder this directly to the metal contacts, too?

Any of the lights that have the small rectangular pcb is my advice to do as I suggested, they have the same connector/fixing, tested on multiple cars & they just were not fixed as tight as I need it to be, remember I don't need comebacks for work I should of done 100% in the 1st place, my motto is usually do it once...................

Fitted to an RS3 as well as my own & have to say it was a hell of allot better following this route, the connectors just don't get conductivity, the thin pin like contacts even on bulbs are awful & imho a nice pothole could shake them loose.

Personally the bulbs are great, Trups has invested fair bit of time in these, you can see that & with all things sometimes some mods are needed for perfection, he got my business along with others who ask me for them

 

[SCFC_Messiah]

Try it first!!!! If it doesn't work, turn it round.

Ah, that simple eh?... I had a mental picture of my car exploding if I wired them up the wrong way

 

[SCFC_Messiah]

Any of the lights that have the small rectangular pcb is my advice to do as I suggested, they have the same connector/fixing, tested on multiple cars & they just were not fixed as tight as I need it to be, remember I don't need comebacks for work I should of done 100% in the 1st place, my motto is usually do it once...................

Fitted to an RS3 as well as my own & have to say it was a hell of allot better following this route, the connectors just don't get conductivity, the thin pin like contacts even on bulbs are awful & imho a nice pothole could shake them loose.

Personally the bulbs are great, Trups has invested fair bit of time in these, you can see that & with all things sometimes some mods are needed for perfection, he got my business along with others who ask me for them

Ok NHN, I'll bow to your experience and solder them in :thumbsup:

Once again, thanks all

 

[Ash187]

A - LED Sidelights? Yes

B - Glove Box light? Yes

C - Rear number plate light (x2) and front interior roof light (x2)? No! These are for the interior dome lights front
And rear

D - Sun visor vanity light (x2) and rear interior roof light (x2)? No these are Vanity mirror lights and the number plate light

 

[Chiefnutter]

Sorry to hijack your thread.....But are these LED's a straight swap with no re-flashing the ECU ? Ive seen threads where people are saying theyve had electrical problems after fitting LED's & they also have to be flashed in with VAG.COM? (not a problem if it is, as my mate at work can do it for me)