Help! Car won't start and I need it!

[9-Points&Counting]

Working one minute, won't start the next.

Just drove back from work, got out of car to pop into house to check if got beer in for tonights game got back in and the ****** thing won't start!! Completely dead. Can't remember exactly, but is it a click from the solenoid in the starter motor I'm supposed to hear at least?

Either way, there's absolutely nowt. Is this a knackered starter motor or could it be a loose connection?

Cheers.

 

[NHN]

Check fuses mate.

So no dash lights, nowt or thats working just wont start?

 

[9-Points&Counting]

Check fuses mate.

So no dash lights, nowt or thats working just wont start?

Will do, will do, thanks. ****** raining now as well !!

No, the dash lights and everything else seems ok. Done a scan with no errors/faults.

 

[Broken Byzan]

its either a flat battery, or a dodgey starter.

So either a jump start ( if battery) or bump start ( if starter) will get her running.

VAG com wont report errors from the starter and may report term 30 voltage low on engine section with a low batt

 

[leshkin]

You could check the voltage on your climate control, if you have one.

http://www.wak-tt.com/climate/climatecodes.htm (this is for TT, but works the same on all climate units)

I would imagine that the starting problem would not be intermittent of it is the battery.... other than that, it sounds like the exact issue I had with a nearly dead battery.

 

[jesters3]

Fuel pump. Had the exact same issue, drove home all fine. Got home, turned off the engine went in to get something came out and wouldn't start. It turns then dies, then just doesn't turn. Checked all fuses and battery and all was fine, got the AA out and straightaway he said it was the fuel pump - you couldn't hear it! It is located under the rear seats; pull them up, turn the key and have a listen. New pump and fitting cost me @ £300.00 from an indie.

Before anyone says oh you can do that yourself or oh that is too expensive or oh I'm great and would have done this instead - blow me.

 

[spliffey]

This happened to mine a few months ago, turned out to be a starter motor, just get a few people to push it and try starting it if that doesnt work then dunno

 

[Tuffty]

Mine has just done the same, last couple of starts have been a bit slow, so I put it down to the battery as I only drive the car maybe one a week.
But tried to start it last weds and nothing, dash is all on and the battery is fine as I tried a new one as well.
So I decided to remove the starter and get it re-built, but upon taking the starter off I noticed the woven cable than runs from the solenoid to the motor was very corroded, and when I tried moving it, it just crumbled in my fingers.
10 mins with a soldering iron and a new bit of cable and she's brand new.

Worth checking before shelling out for a new one.

 

[9-Points&Counting]

well, thanks for all the replies guys... nice to know you can post a problem on here and get a range of help/answers to work from :icon_thumright:

I didn't get a chance to look at it properly as away for the weekend, but got back yesterday and it started first time no problem! Sounds like the starter's on it's way out, but in saying that one of the cables going to it from the battery looks a bit rusty where it connnects. The garage have got it now so see what they say.

Roughly how much for a new or reconn'd starter anyone? If you can get reconn'd that is ?

 

[Tuffty]

depending on the company anywhere from £60 to £100 for a recon.
But when I stripped mine down, all of the internals including the brushes were barely worn after 120k miles, so the only thing that had broken down was the 2" of cable on the outside of it.

Best option is to go to an auto electrical type place and get them to do it "in house" as it were, will be much cheaper than going to a factors for basicly the same thing.
I had one built for my evo, which cost me £50 because it needed a new core, a factors wanted £120.

 

[1animal1]

sounds daft but if it starts on cold but not when warmed up.....could easily be the crank sensor

id vagcom it so you can rule that and a few other things out before replacing parts

 

[finesse]

vote for intermitant crank sensor

 

[9-Points&Counting]

Amazing - the tips just keep coming - big (Handy these icon thingys)

Well, FYI, and to give some help or feedback to anyone who may need it in future, it turned out to be the engine EARTH! Yes the part of the lead that connects onto the engine/gearbox from the battery had corroded away giving a poor earth and intermittent starting (it had been iffy for a while leading up to this). Who fully understands the workings of a cars electrical system? Not me. All I know is it was a good local, in the good garage scheme, so I don't think they've messed me about. Cost £67 odd with the VAT for diagnosing and a new lead - not bad. Only had it back a day tho so we'll see. Sounded fine so far.

Only problem is now, me ****** VAG com port don't work no more

Was working fine before... any suggestions gentlefolk? Can disconnecting the battery upset the OBlahD OBlahD port? Do I need to reinstall VAG Com? Do I need to buy a new car? Or do I need to digitise myself in a freak scanning accident at work and become the next Tron, enabling me to stream into my ECU like Neo, become one with the "Sensors" and thus have vision of all current and future "system failures"? I'm just being silly now aren't I... anymore of this talk and I'll end up mad... like the Lawnmower Man.