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HELP! 2011 A3 Chorus upgrade

Discussion in 'In-Car Entertainment' started by tottenhouse, Feb 20, 2013.

  1. tottenhouse
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    tottenhouse New Member

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    [Feb 20, 2013]
    Hi folks

    This is my first post and as I am totally new to this I hope I am doing it right. I also tried to message someone but don't think I managed to do even that!

    I discovered this forum when researching my problem - which is:

    My Chorus ii+ system has fronts and a centre speaker, but I would like sound for the rear passengers as well as a more 'full' sound in the car. Although I realise it is probably the simplest option, I am not keen to change the look of the head unit to an aftermarket one. I am not that fussed about a sub, but would probably change the fronts to the same brand as the (hopefully) new rears as I think that would improve things enough. i am not after an ear shattering sound - just a decent sound that fills the rear as well, and a fade control.

    My inital investigation led me to believe that the Concert ii+ system was for rear spkrs as well, so I bought one on ebay. I was dismayed when I connected it to see that there is no FADE option available on it either. What does that mean? Is my autospark right when he says the option may only appear when speakers are actually properly connected (and would that be only with the correct rear audi amp??)?

    I know that an amp is required for the rear speakers and I have looked at the Concert pinouts to see if I could connect any 2 channel amp which I can get fairly cheap. Or if I knew what audi amp, I could also probably get a s/h one on ebay. But I am not certain of the correct part numbers here.

    So (as the above is not clear even to me!) basically, I want to know how to get the Concert II+ (or Chorus II+?) wired to an amp and get a FADE option!

    Any help on this will be REALLY appreciated as I am at my wits end trying to get this sorted!

    cheers
    david
    #1
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    [Sep 19, 2014]

  3. AndyMac
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    AndyMac Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    [Feb 21, 2013]
    No Audi head unit has rear speaker outputs, they all use a small amp for the rears.
    One option would be to buy a non Bose subwoofer as this has the amp inside it for the sub and the rears and would be relatively cheap as there's loads on ebay. However the biggest problem is the wiring loom as your A3 won't have any of the wiring. You need the loom to power the amp and to provide the feed for the rear pre-outs from the HU, and then back out to the rear speakers.
    2009 AUDI A3 HATCH BACK SUBWOOFER 8P3035382E | eBay

    The easiest option is to buy an aftermarket head unit, which will have front and rear speaker outputs, so would just be a case of running standard speaker cable from the HU to the rears.
    You could install a small aftermarket amp for the rears with the standard HU, but you'd need an adapter as the stock HU doesn't use standard connections (it uses quadlock)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    You need the RR and RL - As the quadlock plug is a single plug incorporating 4 separate connectors you'd need a quadlock adapter that would allow you to split out the pre-out section onto standard RCA's while keeping the other 3 connections in place.
    Hopefully that's of some use....
    PS You will also need speaker adapters when fitting any aftermarket speakers front or rear. I do MDF ones for the 8P (search ebay for Audi MDF) or you can get plastic ones from most web based ICE dealers
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  4. tottenhouse
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    tottenhouse New Member

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    [Feb 21, 2013]
    First of all - thank you for the prompt, detailed & helpful response. For the speakers I will get the MDF adapters and get your advice on the speaker sizes I need. I will do that through ebay not to confuse things here further!

    I remain undecided about what to do re the head unit! I noted your comments about the wiring and I decided to ask Audi parts who have asked me to get a chassis number for a car which has rear speakers & that way they can trace the part for the loom.... So I hope Colchester Audi will give me that.

    If I could get the loom and the sub you showed me on ebay then perhaps I could get it sorted. I feel. Maybe.

    Regards my Concert not showing a FADE option when I connected it do you know what is going on there? I have investigated this a little also and other Concerts on ebay with the same part number do have a FADE - according to the sellers.

    Or maybe i should just go and buy that Kenwood aftermarket head unit......................!

    Thanks again Andy.

    Regards
    David

    Should I put a request on the A3 area and ask if someone would provide a chassis number I could use.....?
    #3
  5. AndyMac
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    AndyMac Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    [Feb 22, 2013]
    I'd get the dealer to use a chassis number of one of their own vehicles, doubt anyone is going to give that out on a public forum.
    All Audi HU's have a fader option (maybe not the basic Chorus, but certainly all Concerts) so don't worry it will appear when you have it connected, don't think it's a VCDS setting. You can turn the internal front speaker amp off via VCDS but not the pre-outs.
    #4
  6. tottenhouse
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    tottenhouse New Member

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    [Feb 22, 2013]
    Thanks Andy. I've asked Colchester Audi.
    Best regards
    David
    #5
  7. tottenhouse
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    tottenhouse New Member

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    [Feb 26, 2013]
    Well, I got a chassis number but the part isn't available to order from Audi apparently!

    So, I have found a breaker selling a sub/amp on ebay and he is willing to provide the wires, but he says it would be too much work to remove the loom intact but he will cut some wire and the plugs off at the head, rear speakers and sub. This needs to be done & wires grouped/labelled in A TOTALLY IDIOT PROOF way as I need to be able to put it back together!

    He wants as much info as possible before he starts - seems sensible enough and I am hoping someone can help me with the following:

    I assume that the 12 pin plug (LINE LR, RR etc) in the quadlock goes to the sub amp, also that 4 wires leave the sub to the rear speakers. Could it be that simple (I'm sure it isn't) or is the sub powered/switched/earthed by another set of wires....?

    I have tried to get a pinout for the sub amp plug but without any luck.

    Any advice on wiring this up would be VERY MUCH APPRECIATED!

    Cheers guys.
    #6
  8. AndyMac
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    AndyMac Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    [Feb 27, 2013]
    The sub plug pinout is as follows
    [​IMG]
    #7
  9. tottenhouse
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    tottenhouse New Member

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    [Feb 27, 2013]
    Hi Andy - thanks again.....sorry to pester further but did you mean to paste a pic or something?
    #8
  10. AndyMac
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    AndyMac Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    [Feb 27, 2013]
    #9
  11. tottenhouse
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    tottenhouse New Member

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    [Feb 27, 2013]
    looks like the work computer is blocking something me thinks. i can see that one but it won't open......
    i will get a look when i get to my home computer.
    thanks again for the help.
    #10
  12. tottenhouse
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    tottenhouse New Member

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    [Feb 27, 2013]
    Yes - I can see it from the home computer. That almost solves it for me.

    My auto spark may know, but for completeness can you tie up what I believe might finally be the last couple of loose (wire!) ends.

    At the sub end:

    Earth & power (permanent I assume?) seem simple so I think the only ones I want to be certain where the other end goes are:
    • 2 screen
    • 9 remote on
    I have completed the table below for the Concert - can you help fill in any I am needing / missing or do any tie up with these '?'s on the sub plug or are they not needed?
    [TABLE="width: 500"]

    Concert ii+ ............
    goes to
    Sub plug

    1 TEL AF+



    2 LINE RR

    1

    3 AU PL



    4 LINE FR


    not used

    5 LINE EARTH

    ?

    6 K-LTG



    7 TEL AF-



    8 LINE RL

    3

    9 not used

    not used

    10 LINE FL

    not used

    11 not used

    not used

    12 not used

    not used
    [/TABLE]

    Very much appreciate the ongoing help!
    #11
  13. tottenhouse
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    tottenhouse New Member

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    [Feb 27, 2013]
    Yes - I can see all from the home computer. Apologies. That almost solves it for me.

    My auto spark may know, but for completeness can you tie up what I believe might finally be the last couple of loose (wire!) ends.

    At the sub end:

    Earth & power (permanent I assume) seem simple so I think the only ones I want to be certain where the other end goes are:
    • 2 screen
    • 9 remote on
    I have completed the table below for the Concert/Sub - do any tie up with these '?'s or are they not needed?


    [TABLE="class: grid, width: 500"]

    Concert ii+
    goes to
    Sub plug

    1 TEL AF+

    ?

    2 LINE RR

    1

    3 AU PL

    ?

    4 LINE FR


    not used

    5 LINE EARTH

    ?

    6 K-LTG

    ?

    7 TEL AF-

    ?

    8 LINE RL

    3

    9 not used

    not used

    10 LINE FL

    not used

    11 not used

    not used

    12 not used

    not used
    [/TABLE]

    Very much appreciate the ongoing help!
    #12
  14. AndyMac
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    AndyMac Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    [Feb 27, 2013]
    Line earth is screen
    Not sure on AU PL. You'd need to check with a 12v testing screwdriver if that is remote on as its the only one left
    KLTG is the K line CANBUS
    #13
  15. tottenhouse
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    tottenhouse New Member

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    [Mar 31, 2013]
    Well, I eventually got a loom off the same breaker I bought a sub from & spent almost £200 getting it all installed. The sound is SO much better! The new JL speakers in the front are fab. The only slight disappointments are that the fade option still does not appear on the concert head unit I got. Not really a big issue as the best sound comes from the new front components (& MDF adapters) anyhow - but it would have been nice to get it working. Any ideas on a fix that would be appreciated. The other issue is I got a sub from a 3 door & it doesn't fit properly. I can sell it on ebay when I get the right one. I was unsure buying it, but the breaker was very helpful getting the loom out largely intact for me with the stereo & sub plugs intact & the speaker wires all cut but nicely labelled.
    #14

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