Hello from newbie and a couple of questions

[ARSEY4]

Due to pick up my new Phantom black on friday, cant wait.
I have recarros not bucket seats, do these have the embossed rs4 logo on as i have seen pics and it looks like they do.
I have bluetooth but i have not bothered with the cradle. I am assuming that the bluetooth part is still attached to the dash. Is this correct?
Most seem to be saying that it should not be run in carefully other than make sure the oil and water is heated properly before giving it some. Is that the general opinion?
Thanks, I will post my first experiences after I collect on Friday.

 

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Hi, and welcome to the forum.

Due to pick up my new Phantom black on friday, cant wait.
I have recarros not bucket seats, do these have the embossed rs4 logo on as i have seen pics and it looks like they do.

Not sure on the seats. They are the same fully electric ones which are standard in the RS4 cabrio. You might wanna pop over to RS246.com, as a member over there has a cab, and he should be able to tell you.

I have bluetooth but i have not bothered with the cradle. I am assuming that the bluetooth part is still attached to the dash. Is this correct?

Dunno sod all on phone preps. Shame no one else has answered!

Most seem to be saying that it should not be run in carefully other than make sure the oil and water is heated properly before giving it some. Is that the general opinion?

NOOOOOOOOOO. Unless you want to seek out an extra 2 or 3 ponies, at the expense of having to rebuid your engine every month - run the thing in properly - exactly as it states in the manual!

Thanks, I will post my first experiences after I collect on Friday.

Pictures, please!

 

[PetrolDave]

Due to pick up my new Phantom black on friday, cant wait.
I have recarros not bucket seats, do these have the embossed rs4 logo on as i have seen pics and it looks like they do.

I have a Phantom Black RS4 (Avant) with the Recaros too, and they DO have the RS4 logo on them.

I have bluetooth but i have not bothered with the cradle. I am assuming that the bluetooth part is still attached to the dash. Is this correct?

The factory phone kits ALWAYS have a cradle, either in the armrest or on the dash. Totally unnecessary (since they both have Bluetooth) and completely useless as well with most phones - since the adapters available is a very short list. Hope you don't have the centre armrest one - because that loses the RS4 steering wheel as well!

 

[ARSEY4]

Well after picking up on Friday, yes the seats do have the embossed rs4 logo and yes the dashboard mounted phone thing looks a bit naff. But i am pleased to say that the car is an absolute blinder. :thumbsup:

 

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Well after picking up on Friday, yes the seats do have the embossed rs4 logo and yes the dashboard mounted phone thing looks a bit naff. But i am pleased to say that the car is an absolute blinder. :thumbsup:

Cool, pictures next, then.

And make sure you run it in properly! :icon_thumright:

 

[wigginer]

Cool, pictures next, then.

And make sure you run it in properly! :icon_thumright:

Hi Sean, Have you heard of any problems with new (less than 500 miles) RS4s 'stumbling' from cold for up to the first 1/2 mile or so?

 

[ARSEY4]

Hi Sean, Have you heard of any problems with new (less than 500 miles) RS4s 'stumbling' from cold for up to the first 1/2 mile or so?

Funnily enough my car is doing this, i only have 800 miles on it and it is in at the moment for a very bad rattle and it is one of the things that i have asked them to look at. Hopefully there is an ecu flash or something, i know that an old r32 i owned had this problem when warm and it was rectified with an ecu update.

 

[wigginer]

Funnily enough my car is doing this, i only have 800 miles on it and it is in at the moment for a very bad rattle and it is one of the things that i have asked them to look at. Hopefully there is an ecu flash or something, i know that an old r32 i owned had this problem when warm and it was rectified with an ecu update.

I first experienced it in the first week of delivery, but only first 100 yards or so from cold start, but progressively over the last 2/3 weeks it's got worse (Mile or so) and to the point I called Audi Rescue yesterday morning.

and:

Audi Rescue guy turned up and he checked it out with the VAG thingy with no reported problems (very impressed with the service).

He advised I contact dealer re. potential software upgrade (which I half suspected).

He then contacted a M8 in 'Audi Land' to discuss issue, who then suggested software problem plus I may be being too careful running it in.

In the end we concluded that this was the possible cause:

- All the 'shunting around' during delivery with allegedly low grade fuel can cause some build up of some type (carbon?) on plugs. (Apparently at one time Audi used to deliver to dealer with replacement set of plugs for replacement to combat the issue)
- A 'Me' problem - Following bad advice from dealer re. 'running in' I have kept it below 4000 revs for first 300 miles rather than following the advice in the manual seems which gives 'running in' advice more appropriate to the car.

Bottom-line advice (and I love this from the techies):

GIVE IT A GOOD THRASHING !!! ...

...which I did last night (and fingers-crossed) and I have not had a repeat of the problem today !!!

Watch this space ...

 

[ARSEY4]

Is it possible to reset the ecu on these cars. On my old r32 you could leave the ignition on without starting for a while and it would apparantley reset the ecu, I say apparently as im not sure if it really worked.

 

[wigginer]

Well I'm a couple of days on from experiencing my problems and have not had a repeat after taking the advice of the 'nice' (and very knowledgeable) Audi Rescue guy.

Suggest you do the same but within the limits set by the manual re. 'Running In'

 

[wigginer]

Is it possible to reset the ecu on these cars. On my old r32 you could leave the ignition on without starting for a while and it would apparantley reset the ecu, I say apparently as im not sure if it really worked.

What would you expect to happen if you could reset the ecu? ... sorry but I'm a bit thick technically!

 

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Hi Sean, Have you heard of any problems with new (less than 500 miles) RS4s 'stumbling' from cold for up to the first 1/2 mile or so?

Righty, sorry for the late reply!

Both of the two Demo RS4s had a "stutter" for the first mile-ish, when starting from cold. Mine also did the same. It seems to be getting better, though if I leave the car for a week or so, and it is a cold, damp morning, then it still occasionally has a little "hickup".

If this issue is still common, then it might be worth seeing if there is an ECU update!

 

[Teutonic_Tamer]

- A 'Me' problem - Following bad advice from dealer re. 'running in' I have kept it below 4000 revs for first 300 miles rather than following the advice in the manual seems which gives 'running in' advice more appropriate to the car.

Why is that ^^^ bad advice? Who told you it was "bad advice"?

Bottom-line advice (and I love this from the techies):

GIVE IT A GOOD THRASHING !!! ...

What kind of "techie" ??

Without some further info, I would say that comment, as it stands in isolation, is very poor advice, verging on the dangerously incompetent!

...which I did last night (and fingers-crossed) and I have not had a repeat of the problem today !!!

Watch this space ...

I only hope the oil was higher than 90deg C when you gave it the beans.

 

[wigginer]

- A 'Me' problem - Following bad advice from dealer re. 'running in' I have kept it below 4000 revs for first 300 miles rather than following the advice in the manual seems which gives 'running in' advice more appropriate to the car.

Why is that ^^^ bad advice? Who told you it was "bad advice"?.

The advice in the handbook is very specific about how to run it in i.e
"During first 1000km do not use full throttle and do not exceed 6,000 rpm. From 1000 to 2000 km avoid using full throttle and keep the engine speed below 7,000 rpm. From 2000 to 2500 km you can then increase engine speed gradually and briefly to 8,250 rpm"

In fact had never taken it really much over 3000 rpm at the time and the Audi guys though that may be the reason it was'nt running well during warm-up. Potentially because of residual build-up on the plugs.

Bottom-line advice (and I love this from the techies):

GIVE IT A GOOD THRASHING !!! ...

What kind of "techie" ??

Without some further info, I would say that comment, as it stands in isolation, is very poor advice, verging on the dangerously incompetent!

Some Audi Engineer the Roadside Assistant phoned

...which I did last night (and fingers-crossed) and I have not had a repeat of the problem today !!!

Watch this space ...

I only hope the oil was higher than 90deg C when you gave it the beans.

Did'nt really give it the beans as to say and kept well within the advice given in the handbook for running in. More of a good run for about an hour ... and taking the revs up to about 6000 rpm occasionally.

Anyway, as you will see in my next post later today the storyt continues ...

 

[wigginer]

Latest story ... problem still there, went into dealer for 3 day investigation (impressed with service, attitude and approach + gave me a Q8 c/c for the 3 days) but they could not repeat the problem. Within a week experienced it again. Decided to sit pretty and wait for either it to resolve itself or to show itself proper.

Mid June the EPC light (which I guess is associated with the Throttle ... hopefully showing itself!) came on and is still on. Went into the dealer, quick VAG thingy check, they cannot see what the problem is and it's now booked in for another 3 day investigation in a couple of weeks time, which I assume will include a remote diagnostic from Germany or wherever ...

Other than the annoyance of the EPC light being on and the odd hickup during that first warm-up period it's running like a dream.

Should I be worried as the Audi Technician's don't seem to be?

 

[The911SC]

Mine went in last week for an ECU update and also some sort of cable re route?.. There is info over on tyresmoke.net for chassis numbers. I also got them to change the oil while I was there at cost since I have been careful to run it in and have now done 9000 miles.
Car is a bit stuttery when its cold but soon smooths out. I had the epc light come on during the test drive but new plugs fixed this.

Was told the updates are not 'critical' in the view of the dealership so they wont do it until either you ask or it goes for a service.
I have a great dealership near me who sort it all out for me.. Car is still tops!..

 

[wigginer]

Well she's been in the shop since Wed for 3 days for investigation after a EPC 'light on' warning that stayed on. Now sorted, but took until 15:00 today (Fri) to resolve. Problem was a faulty Clutch Pedal Switch (the thing that won't let you start the car unless the clutch pedal is pressed).

Irony was that the switch was replaced at my home by Audi Rescue about 6 weeks ago, when it first occured, but was not setup properly with the Engine Management System.

Before making inappropriate judgement against Audi Rescue please bare in mind the Audi Service Centre needed Audi Technical to talk them through how to replace it properly and configure ...

RS4 Lesson learnt in this case : Let Audi Rescue diagnose, but then get it into an Audi Service Centre for resolution.

3 months in I now feel I can go out and enjoy the car (fingers & toes ... and whatever I can find ... CROSSED !!!!!)

ps. TOUCH WOOD and all that

 

[Teutonic_Tamer]

The advice in the handbook is very specific about how to run it in i.e
"During first 1000km do not use full throttle and do not exceed 6,000 rpm. From 1000 to 2000 km avoid using full throttle and keep the engine speed below 7,000 rpm. From 2000 to 2500 km you can then increase engine speed gradually and briefly to 8,250 rpm"

Whoops, sorry again for the late replies!

I actually find that quite "woolly" advice!

Here is my running in schedule:

0 - 325 miles > up to 2,500 rpm / 1/4 throttle
325 - 650 miles > up to 3,500 rpm / 1/2 throttle
650 - 850 miles > up to 4,500 rpm / 1/2 throttle
850 - 1,100 miles > up to 5,500 rpm / 3/4 throttle
1,100 - 1,300 miles > up to 6,500 rpm / 3/4 throttle
1,300 - 1,600 miles > up to 7,500 rpm / full throttle
1,600 - onwards > max rpm / full throttle

As you can see, it still complies with the official instructions, but allows a more "progressive" build up, and prevents the sudden stresses caused by doodling along at 60mph for 600 miles, and then from 601 miles, applying the GLF principle!

I've used this method for years now, and on all my VAG cars. All have used quite a bit of oil for roughly the first 3,000 to 4,000 miles, but after about 5,000 miles, use nigh-on no oil at all.

 

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Latest story ... problem still there, went into dealer for 3 day investigation (impressed with service, attitude and approach + gave me a Q8 c/c for the 3 days) but they could not repeat the problem. Within a week experienced it again. Decided to sit pretty and wait for either it to resolve itself or to show itself proper.

Mid June the EPC light (which I guess is associated with the Throttle ... hopefully showing itself!) came on and is still on. Went into the dealer, quick VAG thingy check, they cannot see what the problem is and it's now booked in for another 3 day investigation in a couple of weeks time, which I assume will include a remote diagnostic from Germany or wherever ...

Other than the annoyance of the EPC light being on and the odd hickup during that first warm-up period it's running like a dream.

Ohhh, I've never had the EPC light on!

FYI, if/when any warning light in the dash illuminates, then it WILL store a fault code (DTC). Go back to the stealer, and demand that they give you a copy of the VAS5051 DTC printout. If they refuse, speak to the dealer principal, and state they must comply with the Data Protection Act. If they dig in their heels, and you CBA to persue them, find someone with VAG-COM, and the next time the EPC lights up, have the codes read. Actually, it wouldn't surprise me if the codes are still stored, as many stealers don't actually erase the DTCs !!!

Should I be worried as the Audi Technician's don't seem to be?

Yup, but don't take it personally, as they are all like that!

 

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Mine went in last week for an ECU update and also some sort of cable re route?.. There is info over on tyresmoke.net for chassis numbers.

Don't suppose you have the direct link over on TSN. I would search myself, but I find TSN a bit slow, and my 56k flakey dial-up doesn't help!

I also got them to change the oil while I was there at cost since I have been careful to run it in and have now done 9000 miles.

Oh, are you on LongLife servicing? An RS4, or indeed any high performance petrol really should not be on LongLife. VAG revised the "criteria" for LongLife sometime in 2006 - with the crucial part being LongLife is only suitable for engines kept mainly below 3,000rpm !!! So, in reality, unless you drive like a granny, LongLife is only suitable for oil-burners.

Car is a bit stuttery when its cold but soon smooths out. I had the epc light come on during the test drive but new plugs fixed this.

Do I deduce from that yours is second hand? <confused about the running-in, then the test drive comment>

Was told the updates are not 'critical' in the view of the dealership so they wont do it until either you ask or it goes for a service.
I have a great dealership near me who sort it all out for me.. Car is still tops!..

Righty, lets see if we can get to the bottom of this. It would be really helpful if all RS4 owners could post the "model year" (MY) (not registration year), as determined by the 10th digit of the VIN. The build month would be really handy, too.

BTW, how many B7 RS4 owners are active here on ASN? Might be worth doing a poll, or making a sticky on these issues.

For the record, mine is a 2007 MY, built March 07.

 

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Well she's been in the shop since Wed for 3 days for investigation after a EPC 'light on' warning that stayed on. Now sorted, but took until 15:00 today (Fri) to resolve. Problem was a faulty Clutch Pedal Switch (the thing that won't let you start the car unless the clutch pedal is pressed).

Cool, glad it's sorted - fingers crossed and all that.

BTW, if the clutch pedal was toast, then how were you able to start the car in the first place? Do you have cruise control, if so, was that affected?

Irony was that the switch was replaced at my home by Audi Rescue about 6 weeks ago, when it first occured, but was not setup properly with the Engine Management System.

Before making inappropriate judgement against Audi Rescue please bare in mind the Audi Service Centre needed Audi Technical to talk them through how to replace it properly and configure ...

You may be right, but it could simply be that Audi Rescue did not clear the DTCs. Unfortunately, many of these "roadside rescue" companies do not follow standard procedures when warning lights illuminate. You really should hook up the fault code reader when you are initially called to a problem (before you do any other work), print off, or make a written note of the stored DTCs, then ERASE all DTCs, send the car for a 10 minute run, and look again for any codes. Only then should you determine your plan of action.

 

[The911SC]

Don't suppose you have the direct link over on TSN. I would search myself, but I find TSN a bit slow, and my 56k flakey dial-up doesn't help!

Here is the info...
Just recived:

URGENT





Workshop bulletin referring to New Audi Action 97L4 – Audi RS4 righthand drive Vehicles

Checking the electronics box in the plenum chamber.



Affected chassis number ranges:

WUA ZZZ 8E # 6 N 900197 to WUA ZZZ 8E # 6 N 901957 8ECRX9



The accompanying Technical Service Handbook pages 97L4, refers. See Elsa for Repair

Information.



Number of vehicles affected in the U.K. = 529.



Please check and repair all affected vehicles during a service visit. You should also inform your

New and Used Car sales departments so that the vehicles affected can be checked and repaired

immediately (and not just before sale).





Oh, are you on LongLife servicing? An RS4, or indeed any high performance petrol really should not be on LongLife. VAG revised the "criteria" for LongLife sometime in 2006 - with the crucial part being LongLife is only suitable for engines kept mainly below 3,000rpm !!! So, in reality, unless you drive like a granny, LongLife is only suitable for oil-burners.

Yes, Longlife. SLX3 is a good oil but I dont believe in leaving oil in any car for 18000 miles. It is still on a long life regime.


Do I deduce from that yours is second hand? <confused about the running-in, then the test drive comment>

Yes, it was new (showroom car) that I took out on trade plates before I bought it




Righty, lets see if we can get to the bottom of this. It would be really helpful if all RS4 owners could post the "model year" (MY) (not registration year), as determined by the 10th digit of the VIN. The build month would be really handy, too.

Go by the vin

BTW, how many B7 RS4 owners are active here on ASN? Might be worth doing a poll, or making a sticky on these issues.

For the record, mine is a 2007 MY, built March 07.

answers in line !

 

[wigginer]

Cool, glad it's sorted - fingers crossed and all that.

BTW, if the clutch pedal was toast, then how were you able to start the car in the first place? Do you have cruise control, if so, was that affected?



You may be right, but it could simply be that Audi Rescue did not clear the DTCs. Unfortunately, many of these "roadside rescue" companies do not follow standard procedures when warning lights illuminate. You really should hook up the fault code reader when you are initially called to a problem (before you do any other work), print off, or make a written note of the stored DTCs, then ERASE all DTCs, send the car for a 10 minute run, and look again for any codes. Only then should you determine your plan of action.

Not sure why it started ok with a faulty switch ... maybe it 'fails safe' when faulty so as not to leave you stranded.

Well, I watched him through the whole procedure and he cleared the DTCs, but when started the car it came back on.

It also had Audi Manchester and Audi Technical completely stumped for the best part of three days.

Anyway it's gone, but the still having problems with the car 'stuttering'/'stumbling' in the first few hundred yards. Experienced it twice this week. Once on Monday after it being left all day in the sun and then on Tuesday after an early start in the pouring rain. Atmospheric conditions definitely seems to come into it.