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having problems finding a particular a6 relay, any help out there????

Discussion in 'General Technical / How To' started by edmanning, Jul 28, 2005.

  1. edmanning
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    edmanning Member

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    [Jul 28, 2005]
    hi all

    i have a 2000 a6 1.8t thats been off the road for some time with some major electrical problems.
    i recently done a vag-com scan and a number of codes come up but the first i need to deal with is a faulty relay that i want to change.

    the vag-com scan said........

    17925 MAIN RELAY (J271) ELECTRICAL MALFUNCTION
    P1517 - 35 - 30 INTERMITTENT

    i called audi and they said that the code j271 does not relate to any part number. i then done a search on the web for j271 and i got a list of many part numbers relating to other vag cars and describes the part as being a main power supply relay. i called audi again asking for a main power supply relay for my car, to which they said they needed a part number and suggested i let them diagnose and fix the faults. i don't think they realise that not everyone is made of money......
    all i want to do is buy the relay, replace it and then scan again to see if this relay effected any of the other electrical faults.

    if anyone has any info on how i can find out which relay i need or any idea on the part numbers it would really be appreciated.
    thanks
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  3. audi5e
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    audi5e Member

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    [Jul 28, 2005]
    #2
  4. edmanning
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    edmanning Member

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    [Jul 30, 2005]
    thanks for that. i'll try and check that the relay exists in the car tomorrow, if it does i'll take a punt on it and replace it......
    i know there are relays in the ecu box as well as behind the fuse box. are there any other hidden i've missed?
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  5. edmanning
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    edmanning Member

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    [Jul 30, 2005]
    just been in the car and no sign of this relay. i assume it must be only for the a3 + a4 tdi's as listed on the site.
    i think this is the one i'm looking for as the description sounds right and it does relate to some of my car's faults but i just need the equivalent relay that fits in my 2000 petrol a6 1.8se.

    thanks for trying, it's really appreciated. i don't underastand why the main stealers can't tell me which one in my car does the same thing... it's really frustrating!!!!!
    if anyone has any ideas or help please post up.
    cheers
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  6. audi5e
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    audi5e Member

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    [Jul 30, 2005]
    have you had a look behind the cover in the passenger side footwell? (just in front of the door, not sure on the 2000 A6 but the slightly older version also had relays here...)
    #5
  7. edmanning
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    edmanning Member

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    [Jul 31, 2005]
    just checked and nothing. there are a load of electrical junctions but no relays.

    i have listed the relays that i can find in the car. the numbers in the brackets are the large numbers on the top of the relay. from top left to bottom right in the main relay bank (drivers footwell)......

    141 951 253 B (53)
    453919 578 C (267)
    4B0 907 487 E (609)
    4B0 919 471A (393)
    141 951 253 B (53)
    8D0 951 253 (370)
    4D0 951 253 (372)
    4B0 955 531 D (602)

    behind the main bank......

    8D0 951 253 A (373)
    8D0 951 253 (370)

    in the engine ecu box.......

    8D0 951 253 A (373)
    165 906 381 (30)

    i guess one of these must be the the main relay or power supply relay, unless there are more somewhere else???? any more suggestions or help please post up.
    thanks.
    #6
  8. edmanning
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    edmanning Member

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    [Jul 31, 2005]
    on looking at the relays the one in the ecu box 165 906 381 has a similar code to the tdi 1J0 906 381 A that was suggested.
    do audi relay codes relate to others in any way? if so this could be the culprit!!!

    why did the vag-com scan come up with a code that related to a relay that's for a diesel car??? this seems odd!!

    any more thoughts?
    #7
  9. audi5e
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    [Jul 31, 2005]
    165 906 381 (30) Try changing this one and see what happens?

    Read this: (taken from:http://www.thegolf.co.uk/content/ask_brain.htm)

    Question: I've got a Mk3 Golf GTI 8valve, VIN no: wvwzzz1HzVWx, engine: AGGxxxxxx.
    My problem is that the engine keeps cutting out while I am driving. Sometimes the car re-starts straight away, other times it just turns over but won't fire. You then have to wait a couple of minutes before it will start again. I've had the car into my local garage who have checked all the fuel and electrical systems but can find no faults.
    They did change the distributor and the module which did seem to cure the problem for a short time but the fault is now back.
    Not only am I getting frustrated with the problem but it is also getting dangerous when the engine cuts out while I'm driving. Can you help me?
    Duncan Lee, via email

    Answer: The distributor on AGG engines never fails and will not cause cutting out if the hall sender fails.
    We have had trouble convincing people of this as "their mate says it's the dizzy" so to prove the point we unplug the hall sender with the engine running, and it keeps running!
    The distributor is only responsible for indicating to the ECU the position of number one cylinder, (the quote from the VW ELSA manual being "The position of the distributor does not influence the ignition timing") which it needs to know in order to provide sequential injection timing.
    The set up of the distributor is CRITICAL for it to function in this way and is set up using a code reader, such as VAG-COM, the set up figures are:
    Engine electronics-01, read measured values-08, display group-07, zone 1 specification 57 to 60 or 1 and zone 2 specification 5 to 8, rotating the distributor as necessary to achieve these figures.
    The module they have changed would have been the ignition transformer or the amplifier, maybe even both.
    These hardly ever fail either but it is not unheard of and can cause the symptoms you describe.
    Firstly, have the ECU scanned to check for fault codes, any found should recorded and then erased.
    The car should then be driven until the fault re-occurs. The most likely fault code is 00513 "Engine speed sender -G28 Signal outside tolerance-intermittent" and that makes life easy as you just need to change the sender (037 906 433 A at £145.12 from VW), but it's expensive and time consuming to fit as it's tucked away behind the oil filter and front engine/gearbox mount.
    If no fault codes are shown - the most common and potentially irritating result - you could be left even more confused than before but we have found this is a very strong indication that the main ECU relay on the relay plate under the dash is faulty. This is located at position number three (main board top row, third from the left) and has the control group no. 30 on top and part number 165 906 381.
    The problem relays are black and usually made in Malaysia. The new relay (often Portuguese manufacture and grey in colour) is still the same 165 906 381 part number from VW and costs £10.35 including VAT and takes minuets to fit with no tools required and we find is the cause of your type of problem in roughly 90 per cent of cases.
    It's so common in fact that we keep three relays in stock and only genuine VW ones at that, as pattern sourced items have been known to fail immediately as they come from the manufacturer!
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  10. edmanning
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    edmanning Member

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    [Aug 3, 2005]
    thanks again,
    i picked up a relay today for a tenner it has got to be worth a gamble.....!

    i'll try it tomorrow and let you know what happens.......

    FINGERS CROSSED!!!!!!!!!!
    #9
  11. audi5e
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    [Aug 3, 2005]
    Good luck!
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  12. edmanning
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    [Aug 8, 2005]
    got a bit delayed as the car needed a new battery.
    put in the new battery + relay and it has definately improved!
    the car before had very heavy idling probs that would drop so low the engine would constantly cut out. with the new relay the idling probs are still bad but it stays at a level that the engine does not cut out.
    i will scan again tomorrow to see the results.
    #11
  13. edmanning
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    edmanning Member

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    [Aug 8, 2005]
    i've just been really stupid!!!!
    after writing the last post i thought the battery could have something to do with the engine stalling. i went down to the car to check the relays against each other. i started the car with the new relay in and the engine didn't stall. i then swapped the new relay for the old one to see if there was a difference..... to my joy the car stalled straight away (this proved to me that the relay was faulty all along...?) i then put the new relay back in thinking everything was cool and it performed exactly as the old relay, the car stalled immediately!!!!

    here's the stupid bit.....
    i realised that the ignition was always on while i changed the relays over. could this have damaged my new relay?????? it seams so but i do not know if this is likely, any advise as to if this is possible would be usefull.........

    thanks
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  14. audi5e
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    audi5e Member

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    [Aug 10, 2005]
    There may have been a surge but I doubt it would damage the new relay???

    You could always pop the cover off and check if the relay contacts are dirty.
    #13
  15. edmanning
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    edmanning Member

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    [Aug 10, 2005]
    i just took the cover off the old relay as it was at hand. it looks really clean in there.
    i will check the new one to see if it is dirty.
    my initial thought is that it would not damage the relay. i did think that on changing it the idling did improve.
    maybe this is to do with the new battery??????
    #14
  16. audi5e
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    [Aug 11, 2005]
    I have an idling issue myself, at first I thought it was a relay, then fixed all the vacuum leaks, and I am now leaning towards a potentially faulty idle stabilser valve. However the only way to check properly is to replace it, which of course is only available at Audi and costs an arm and a leg.
    #15
  17. audi5e
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    [Aug 11, 2005]
    I should add, after every step of fixing, the car would run beautifully for a couple of days before it started up it's /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/swear.gif again. Perhaps it was just happy I had spent time and money on it? :))
    #16

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