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Going mad I need you guys to help please poor boost R-Tech map

Daz1 Mar 28, 2012

  1. Daz1

    Daz1 Member

    HI ALL

    i have a agu 1999 a3 104k miles
    had ben at r-tech remap it stage 1 while having a lambda fault 16515 i think
    anyway after map is was great very lively then my bosch dv went all i had was a bailey dv26 so i put that on while i orded a forge 007p
    the bailey was making a psssh sound with no effort at all then just stopped working on a duel carrige way and felt like i lost alot off power
    since then iv put the 007p on and installed a boost gauge and getting 8psi boost and 30 inhg
    and feels slow so bought a new genuine maf and n75 and no difference
    i have bought another boost gauge and thats reading the same 8 psi and 30 inhg
    i have now fitted a brand new FMIC and all turbo pipes and vac lines but still dont feel mapped as low boost
    i have just bout a forge split-r to see if that would help as its ajustable set it to 21 clicks for stage 1 as told by forge
    and nothing so wound it cc and still no noise and very under powered
    r-tech still havent got back to me its been over a week , but assured me the map is fine but what else could cause this as im throwing money at it for no reason
    AND i drove my friends car the same as mine but not mapped and mine feels slitly quicker but no way 45 bhp more id say 10 max lol
    really need your help on this as anyone had this before
    oh and i bought a new lambda sensor but the fault code is sill there no matter how many times i clear it and vag com brings up nothing
    just shows its working then nothing then working

    all your advice is very much appreciated
  2. Prawn

    Prawn My other car is a MINI!!!!

    It's not a mapping issue you've got mate, it's a hardware problem.

    A map is fairly straight forward, in so much that if it worked when done, then it's still working, and something else is at fault.

    It sounds to me like you've got a pipework issues related to either your N75 or DV. Either from when you've been changing your DV over, or just a natural split somewhere in the system.

    Where abouts are you? It sounds like you've already spent a load of money on parts you didn't need, so I'd suggest you find someone who knows these engines well and get it looked over properly, and by that I don't mean an average joe garage, but an enthusiast from the forum or specialist tuner like Rtech themselves or Badger 5 or similar.

    It'll almost certainly be an easy fix, and from what you've described, I bet it'll be easy to find as well!
  3. R-Tech-Nick

    R-Tech-Nick Active Member

    If it was the map at fault you would have had issues straight away, not sometime after, and once you have ran into a few hardware issues with the DV. (have you checked the vac line to the DV?)

    In your post you state after the remap it was very lively then a few harware issues and your now down on power? So the remap works with your car spot on so we just need to find out what gone on with the hardware to make you boost so low, a stage1 AGU should be boost to a mininum of 14psi, on a good healthy engine with strong actuators you can even see upto 18psi peak.

    First think to make sure is your turbo is working ok and can produce boost, remove the pipe going from the N75 to Actuator and drive up the road and put your foot down and see it the car boosts over 14psi, (just get ready to lift of it your boost starts to go higher than 14psi.)

    If by doing the above test you still get 8psi, this you have a naffed turbo fault actuator or a major boost leak somewhere.

    If the test shows give you 14+psi or then your fault is with a sensor or or valve, faulty N75. over reading MAF, baro pressure sensor under correcting.

    If you have VCDS you can start by logging the load request which the map is asking vs the actual engine load V N75 duty cycle.

    Did you book the map via Ben? Which means you would have a Fusion remap wrote by Ben, Or did you book an R-Tech remap which Ben from Fusion carried out on our behalf?

    If you get stuck you can always book in for a full diagnostis rolling road session at the workshop, which will allow us to pin point your hardware issues with in 30mins, and we can point you in the right direction?

    First thing i would do is get rid of all the fault codes, fix the lambda sensor fault so you know all is spot on with the fuel...
  4. Alex C

    Alex C Well-Known Member VCDS Map User Audi S3

    £ :kissmyrings: bloody hell!

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