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Gearbox oil??

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by SteveSAS, Nov 19, 2012.

  1. SteveSAS
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    SteveSAS Member

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    [Nov 19, 2012]
    Hey, going through list of small service stuff on my S3.

    Done the sump & renew pick up pipe, new oil & filter.

    Whats the service interval for gearbox oil & would anyone recommend additives or standard stuff best??
    Nothing wrong with my gears by the way & car coming up to 90k.

    Thanks

    Steve

    P.S. How often should fuel filter be changed & where on car is it??
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  3. dre_S3
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    dre_S3 Member

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    [Nov 19, 2012]
    Not sure with the gear box but the fuel filter is at the bottom of the car drivers side between the middle of the car and the rear wheel. I think they recommend changing them every 20000 mile but Audi never change them in the service needs to be asked for as mine was never done and had full service history with Audi
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  4. TOM.S
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    TOM.S Active Member

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    [Nov 19, 2012]
    recomended service interval for gearbox oil is 60k
    and only fully synthetic oil shoud be used
    according to my mechanic at a VAG specialist garage
    #3
  5. vfr800
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    vfr800 Active Member

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    [Nov 20, 2012]
    Don't forget the Haldex oil and filter.

    Thought about the the rear diff? the rear diff take a completely different type of oil from the haldex or the front gear/bevel box - and also makes a difference when you change it.

    Liam
    #4
  6. Sevv
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    Sevv Pushing the limits..

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    [Nov 20, 2012]
    so what oil is recommended for the rear diff. havent changed that one yet...
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  7. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    [Nov 20, 2012]
    Isn't it just GL4 75w90?
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  8. Sevv
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    Sevv Pushing the limits..

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    [Nov 20, 2012]
    lol thanks yet again Mr. Sam just got 6 quarts of Redline Gl4 75w90
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  9. vfr800
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    vfr800 Active Member

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    [Nov 20, 2012]
    No I don't believe it's that. It's DIFFERENT to the front gear box/bevel box oil.

    EDIT: Audi part numbers (for my 2001 S3 AMK):
    Front / Gear & Bevel Box : G 052 171 A2 (~ 3L)
    Haldex Clutch: G 052 175 A1 (275ml)
    Rear Differential: G 052 145 S2 or G 052 145 A1 (1L)
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2012
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  10. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    [Nov 20, 2012]
    #9
  11. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    [Nov 20, 2012]
    Looks like Redline MT90 (GL4) is recommended for front. GL5 rear. GL5 is bad for the 'box but ok for the rear diff.

    Bugger.
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  12. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    [Nov 20, 2012]
    Just ordered those rose jointed arms (with boots), new ball joints and a steering rack bush. Looking forwarding to tightening everything up...
    #11
  13. oilman
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    oilman Member

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    [Nov 20, 2012]
    Hi Steve,

    For your gearbox we tend to recommend this one from Fuchs, a good quality synthetic Fuchs TITAN SINTOFLUID FE SAE 75W synthetic manual transmission oil

    For the diff this one Fuchs TITAN SINTOPOID FE SAE 75W-85 fully synthetic gear oil

    Cheers

    Guy
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  14. TDIQ
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    TDIQ 8L > 8P > 8V

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    [Nov 20, 2012]
    Opie suggested to me previously to use this in the rear diff:
    Fuchs TITAN GEAR SYN 75W-90 Semi Synthetic Driveline Oil

    And something slightly different for the gearbox as the one above may slip.

    Anyway, after researching for quite some time I used it in both and haven't had any issues at all. <Tuffty> also used it too he posted.
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  15. Sevv
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    Sevv Pushing the limits..

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    [Nov 21, 2012]
    #14
  16. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    [Nov 21, 2012]
    You got the LSD fitted? How is it? You going for the rear too?

    I used MT90 for the front box. It's tried and tested. GL4 (such as the the ones above, Redline MT90 or MTL) front, GL5 rear. From what I've read the "early" GL5 oils were actually harmful to the front box and could cause synchro issues so stick with GL4.
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  17. Sevv
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    Sevv Pushing the limits..

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    [Nov 21, 2012]
    yeah well its gonna be fit my Seb very very soon thats why im wondering what to get

    decide on these oils to get RBF660 1.5 lts

    Motul 300V 10w40 actualy gives slight power increase

    now concerning the rear diff and box im dabbling between Motul and Redline even though motul is bloody 2x the cost at 33$

    yeah im going for the rear LSD and a uprated haldex controler and thats handling 98% perfect.!
    #16
  18. Sevv
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    Sevv Pushing the limits..

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    [Nov 21, 2012]
    sorry belated reply guess im sticking to GL4 then thanks Sammy... r u going to LSD's ? with a GTX3076R and 2000cc injectors and the sort i think u need LSD's :p
    #17
  19. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    [Nov 21, 2012]
    Who's running that? 2000cc? e85 presumably? I did have a rear LSD (Peloquin) for a while but never actually fitted it.

    Lucky you if Seb's working quick for you! I resorted to going there and doing it myself :)

    Power increase from oil? Must be snake oil ;)
    #18
  20. Sevv
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    Sevv Pushing the limits..

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    [Nov 21, 2012]
    No seriouslt lol its a tiny 3bhp so not bad and its double ester but at 180$ for 5 ltrs not cheap yeah seb is actually doing a **** ton to the car told me two to three days tops... that for tie rods thermostat sway bar links electric turbo pump box full service new clutch ... oil pump and pick and rear main seal oh and forge short shifter and bleeding brakes

    Cant complain really
    #19
  21. Sevv
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    Sevv Pushing the limits..

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    [Nov 21, 2012]
    I should come visit when ur there lol was on the phone with him today
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  22. djarchive
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    djarchive Member

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    [Nov 21, 2012]
    How much of this "Fuchs TITAN SINTOFLUID FE SAE 75W" would you need for a change of the Gbox oil in a BAM 2002 S3?
    #21
  23. TDIQ
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    TDIQ 8L > 8P > 8V

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    [Nov 21, 2012]
    IIRC 3.5l but 5l was enough for the gearbox and rear diff.
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  24. oilman
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    oilman Member

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    [Nov 22, 2012]
    It takes about 2.4L according to my data.

    Cheers

    Tim
    #23
  25. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    [Nov 22, 2012]
    For the 4wd 6 speed? I drained a little over 3L out and about the same went back in, remember there's probably about 3-400ml in the transfer box that you're meant to drain too.
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  26. oilman
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    oilman Member

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    [Nov 22, 2012]
    That's what it's saying, but it might be wrong.
    #25
  27. Tooks
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    Tooks Active Member

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    [Nov 22, 2012]
    I changed my gearbox oil last week. I got 2.1L out of the main gearbox drain plug, and 400ml from the transfer box drain plug.

    I refilled with 2.5l of fully synthetic hypoid 75w/90 oil.
    #26
  28. SteveSAS
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    SteveSAS Member

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    [Nov 22, 2012]
    Ok guys, thanks for advice, any special tools for gearbox drain?? Where do you fill up?

    Thanks
    #27
  29. vfr800
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    vfr800 Active Member

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    [Nov 22, 2012]
    You fill up at the filler plug. Some where on the gear box. You fill it to the point that oil comes out the filler hole.

    Undo the filler BEFORE you undo the drain plugs and drain the oil - better to find out there's a problem with the filler before you empty the oil.

    If you drain the bevel box you will need to run the gear box / drive around for a few mins to let the oil distribute. Then refill - as oil will then have worked its way in the bevel box.

    I'd recommend checking the level soon after driving it properly just to make sure it's perfect.

    Liam
    #28
  30. s3dave
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    s3dave TFSI Hybrid Supporter

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    [Nov 22, 2012]
    size 14 allen key type for both
    #29
  31. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    [Nov 22, 2012]
    #30
  32. vfr800
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    vfr800 Active Member

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    [Nov 22, 2012]
    There are three, drain plug - gear box, drain plug - bevel box, filler plug - gear box.
    #31
  33. s3dave
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    s3dave TFSI Hybrid Supporter

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    [Nov 22, 2012]
    Ah well mine is a 2000 if that helps size 14 allen type bit for all 3 (thanks vfr)
    #32
  34. djarchive
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    djarchive Member

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    [Dec 1, 2012]
    Sorry to drag this one up again... Mines going in next week for a gearbox oil change / haldex oil too (+ filter)...

    Chap at the VAG independent garage said to me that the Gearbox oil is sealed for life/ doesn't need replacing. I'm gonna get it done anyway just for piece of mind etc.


    What benefits does this bring/ any noticeable differences once changed both the above?


    Thanks,
    Joe
    #33
  35. vfr800
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    vfr800 Active Member

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    [Dec 1, 2012]
    What a load of sh*te.

    It's oil, it goes manky, it needs replacing, you don't *need* to replace it but if you do you'll have some nice fresh oil that's doing a better job of protecting all the moving metal parts.

    I found the rear diff engage more smoothly, other reported a nicer feel, front gear box oil change should make a big difference.

    Liam
    #34
  36. djarchive
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    djarchive Member

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    [Dec 2, 2012]
    Well I had been thinking that as I drove home but, I had to ask. Why would he say that though? Strange guy. Haha

    Note: Mine's a 2002 225 BAM S3 if that's what he was taking into consideration when telling me that crock. Ah well.


    Will report back after it's been done.


    Thanks bud.

    Joe
    #35
  37. Sam_
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    Sam_ Down under

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    [Dec 2, 2012]
    Don't Audi quote it as a lifetime fluid? He was probably basing it on that?
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