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Gearbox Mountings

Discussion in 'A4/S4 forum(B5 Chassis)' started by Mr K, Oct 23, 2013.

  1. Mr K
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    Mr K Member

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    [Oct 23, 2013]
    Still got a bad clunk, and its got worse over the past couble of days (at times its now horrendous!)

    After some poking around last night we realised that the engine rocks when you pull away - I was just bringing the clutch up until it bit, and letting the car move 6 inches. we were expecting to see it rock along the crank centre line, but instead the rear of the engine is coming up and down - bassically the whole engine and box rocks forwards and back piviting on the engine mounts.

    As they are cheap, the a first plan of action is gearbox mounts.

    The car is a very late 1999 1.8TQS manual avant. Ive ordered these:
    Lemforder Audi | Euro Car Parts UK’s No.1 Car Parts Retailer
    Lemforder Audi | Euro Car Parts UK’s No.1 Car Parts Retailer

    But I wasnt sure about this one - I dont think my gearbox is FSD (build sticker says DAJ DWR). So hopefully I shouldnt have had this one. The 'without roof rack' bit made me laugh - what relevance does that have!
    Lemforder Audi | Euro Car Parts UK’s No.1 Car Parts Retailer

    Also, what are these for?
    Lemforder Audi | Euro Car Parts UK’s No.1 Car Parts Retailer

    Assuming I have the right ones, I can find a guide for the right mount and that looks really easy, but I cant find a guide for the left, anyone?
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  3. Bradderz_1988
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    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    [Oct 23, 2013]
    The mounts you have ordered are correct, as for the other ones one looks like subframe bush other looks like it maybe for a B6, as for the left mount take the full unit off the gearbox swap the mount then refit do this with the drivers mount removed will be alot easier.
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  4. Mr K
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    Mr K Member

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    [Oct 23, 2013]
    Awesome - ta.

    Is it possible without a ramp/lift? the right mount looks really easy from what Ive seen. Hopeing the left will be the same.

    Will let you know how I get on!
    #3
  5. Bradderz_1988
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    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    [Oct 23, 2013]
    Id say its do able if you've got two axle stands and a trolly jack to jack up the box to clear the mounts free !!
    #4
  6. B5NUT
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    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    [Oct 23, 2013]
    I did my gearbox mounts with a trolly jack & axle stands, it took just over an hour for both mounts. The heat shield on the drivers side will get in the way but I just bent it out of the way then bent it back again.
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  7. Mr K
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    Mr K Member

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    [Oct 23, 2013]
    Awesome. Got tons of stands and a couple of trolley jacks so shouldn't be a problem.

    Thanks!
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  8. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Oct 23, 2013]
    Snub mount is there to stop the engine twisting round like you describe.
    #7
  9. Mr K
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    Mr K Member

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    [Oct 23, 2013]
    This was my thought, but figuired both ends would need excesive movement to let it move.
    Luckily a genuine new RS4 snub dropped through the letter box from Stoke audi last weekend! I was waiting until I had a clear day to pull the front end off and do the aux belts and thermostat at the same time. Its a shame it's such a PITA to get to! I assume the whole front end needs to come off? I did this before on my 2.8 to do the cam belt - but it was a while ago now.

    Unfortunately im in up against time this weekend so hopefully new box mounts will do the trick by not letting the move until I get time to get the new snub in there.

    How much do healthy cars engines move when they load up and the clutch bites, and in what direction?
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  10. Bradderz_1988
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    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    [Oct 23, 2013]
    You dont need to take off the front end !!

    snub can be done from underneath along with thermostat, aux belts can be done in service mode !! But if your dropping the coolant to do the stat then it wouldnt hurt taking it all off for ease of fitment !!
    #9
  11. Mr K
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    Mr K Member

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    [Oct 23, 2013]
    Cool!

    Service mode is bumper off, unbolt headlamp panel then slide it all forward a few inches yea?
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  12. Bradderz_1988
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    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    [Oct 24, 2013]
    Correct !!
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  13. ScottD3
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    ScottD3 I want your faulty electronics

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    [Oct 24, 2013]
    They are a lot cheaper than I thought.
    I've been putting off doing my engine and gear box mounts for almost a year cause I thought they was hundreds.

    Time to go shopping I think.............after the MOT.

    Thanks MrK for the links. :thumbsup:
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  14. Mr K
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    Mr K Member

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    [Oct 24, 2013]
    Scott, check you get the right ones as your cars auto isn't it? One of them is different, not sure about the other.

    I was suprised by the price too. There's even some qcap ones for £6! But a bit of a false economy when a lemforder is only £20.
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  15. ScottD3
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    ScottD3 I want your faulty electronics

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    [Oct 24, 2013]
    I'll double check that bit when I order.

    Hopefully I can get it done before the weather really turns.
    #14
  16. Mr K
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    Mr K Member

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    [Oct 24, 2013]
    They went on offer today.

    The day after I bought them eurocarparts knocked about £6 off each one! problem is my nearest store is 30min drive away so taking them back and buying them again discounted gives a negligible saving.
    #15
  17. Mr K
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    Mr K Member

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    [Oct 28, 2013]
    Got the two gearbox mounts fitted on saturday - easy peasy!

    the bolted into the G'box casing where extremely tight and I managed to slash my knuckle open when one suddenly let go. Worst garage injury in ages.

    Otherwise it all went ok. Also found the cross bar that links the two rear bottom arm mounts was bent (is this bar only present on TQS/S4/RS4?) up where it had been jacked on by the PO, so we bent that back.

    Its massively improved the car, the gearchange is better and the thuds and bangs much reduced. Still need to do the front diff mount (fill with poly) and snub mount. Its also highlighted that the exhaust needs adjusting as it knocks the floor at the back a bit.

    thanks for all the advice guys. Make it really easy to do the jobs.

    For anyone else thinking of doing this job - I did it like this (to suit 1.8TQS):
    1. Crack off RH drivers side front wheel nuts.
    2. Jack up and secure the front of the car.
    3. Remove RH drivers side wheel
    4. Inside the engine bay remove the 3 screws holding header tank. I used a piece of rope to hold it flipped out the way.
    5. Inside the wheel arch with a long extension on a ratchet undo the 10mm bolt holding the head sheild in place on the RH G'box mount.
    6. With a lever bend the heat sheild out of the way of the long bolt
    7. Under the car take the weight of the gearbox on the trolley jack with a block of wood on it.
    8. Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the RH mount to the sub frame
    9. Remove the long bolt through the RH mount and withdraw from the top. One end is 15mm the other 16mm.
    10. Lift the box a little and withdraw the mount.
    11. Slot in the new mount. You may need to lift it a little further to get it in. My old mount had sagged around 3mm.
    12. Refit the 3 bolts with threadlock and bend & bolt the heatshild back in place.
    13. Undo the 4 torx bolts holding the LH alloy mounting bracket to the side of the gearbox. 2 from above down under the header tank, 2 from below.
    14. Undo the single nut holding the LH mount to the subframe.
    15. Undo the allen bolt holding the mount to the bracket on the bench.
    16. Refit the mount in the car and refit the 4 torx bolts
    17. Fit nut back onto mount with some threadlock.
    18. Refit wheel and header tank.
    Last edited: Oct 28, 2013
    #16

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