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Discussion in 'Audi S4/A4/A4 Cab (B7 Chassis)' started by p1tse, Apr 3, 2011.
which does it relate to?
Read the sticky.
Its engine code "BLB" and i think it was 2005/2006.
This is a 140ps engine
where can you see engine code, chassis number?
is all 2005/06 cars of specific dates going to be BLB engine code or random?
hmm, You should see it on your logbook i think.
Also the sticker in your boot floor.
Also the sticker in your service schedule.
Should be fairly obvious if you see "BLB"
Dont think all 05/06 140ps A4 are BLB but im not sure i havent followed it too closely.
A4 engine codes: BRD, BVF, BVA, BRE, BLB, BNA, BRF are affected by either the gear teeth or the hex shaft failure
A4 Cab codes: BPW, BRC
If your unsure if you have the chain or gear drive then only by removing the sump will you no for sure
What is "gear teeth or the hex shaft failure"?
I thought these issues were only on 140ps between 05/06
I have a 57 plate BRD 170ps - is it something to worry about?
Worry no no lets not start a mass forum panic.The teeth wear is easily fixed by replacing the oil pump gear
The hex key is basically the drive cam from the pulley to the pump and the edges wear and therefore the pump loses drive.
You will notice the red oil pressure light will come on and you must stop the engine to prevent turbo damage
Check your vehicle history to see if
Workshop campaign 13D7 has been carried out or your vehicle production build fell into the repair criterion
in this campaign the pulley and pump are checked and replaced accordingly, if the chain is fitted then its converted to gear drive if I recall
The BLB's are more prone to failure, 2.0TDI's in cars from 2005-2006 tend to be BLB. They use a chain with a piece of plastic to provide tension to the oil pump drive, this plastic wears out and, ultimately, you need a new engine.
I am aware of failures on the gear driven cars but it is not as common as the BLB fault. I realise that sticky is long but it's well worth reading as we are duplicating threads here.
But there is no specific engine code data to tell you which drive gear type is fitted.Depending on available base short motors the production line fitted what was available, hence the sump removal is a good option for worried owners and conversion is recommended once the sump is off as its not so bad a job to under take.I understand the cost element but if you buy 2nd or 3rd hand and wish for a peaceful life then its worth it.
However if you have purchased the 170 I would worry more about the injectors.
Hence I own the B6 avf 1.9 pd unit which is bullet proof
I also own bkd in the vw golf but there less prone to faults in the vw platform for some reason and 60k faultless miles, however I do have a spare head in case lol
yeah bkd engines, you just have to buy fans and throttle bodys when they pack up and blow engine management fuses. then worry about egr coolers leaking coolant into the egr system. oil coolers leaking coolant into the oil. and cracked heads hydaulicing engines on start up.
much better engines......
just buy a 1.9 that not been on longlife service plans.......... you'll sleep better
Murran are you saying bkd is a bad engine lol
I know all this but don't worry its all ok I also have two spare turbos well in fact I have everything bar the short motor
Thanks for your concern mate
Are gear theeths and hex shaft the only worn off parts? The service my car is currently parked in said that bearings need replacement too. I don't see any signs of damage on them. The main problem is that bearings can't be separately bought, so I would need to replace the whole module which is way too expensive. I've bought the hex shaft already, but am afraid if I get the same problem when everything is put back together. What should I do?
I have a Feb 07 BRD 2.0 TDI with hex shaft/oil pump issues. 118k full Audi service history, it's wanted for nothing.
To be honest the checks to do to satisfy yourself are:-
Look out your window if your car is of the Audi variety then quickly decide what new car you would like and start looking.
I'm afraid perceived quality just doesn't cut it for me.
i have just last week changed a full bkd engine at work on a mk5 golf due to the head being cracked around no.1 inlet port. coolant was leaking in around the inlet valves. on removing the head i found no.1 piston roughly 2mm lower than number 4 on tdc..... bent conrod from hydralicing on the coolant..... hence the full engine change. we (the garage) bought a second hand engine minus injectors for Â£500. i fitted it.
no, in my experience, id really not go near a bkd personally.
I have an 07 BRD 170. To be honest, if you consider how many of these cars and these engines have been made then you are probably just unlucky if it happens to you.
Almost every manufacturer will have horror stories of some sort online. You'll not find pages of pages of "How awesome my car is and how nothing has broken". First thing folk do these days if they have bad news is jump on the interweb and tell as many people as possible.
Enjoy the car and cross your fingers - its what I'm doing