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FMIC PIPE WORK/PIPING HELP

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by dubhyper, Oct 8, 2006.

  1. dubhyper
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    dubhyper Illegally Street

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    [Oct 8, 2006]
    EASY all, Been scanning ebay today looking for pipe work for my fmic. Found a kit for a Golf gti turbo.
    So Ive got this A3 1.8T 8L (150bhp). that im wondering if its gonna fit. Im thinking yes....but i thought i come asks some like minded morre knowledgable people who might have tried it allready..
    Im hovering over this buyit now button. The kits like £80. plus post.
    includes everything apparently. I know im gonna have to cut through some metal. I got all the tools to do it and yesterday helped a mate to fit his fmic to an s14... So its all fresh in my mind what needs to be done. Any one know if a golf gti turbo kits the same pipe work
    . cheers in advance
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  3. ANDYTQ
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    ANDYTQ Active Member

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    [Oct 8, 2006]
    It should fit,but in my experience a3's have got to be chopped about a bit more than golfs,i had to remove lots of plastic,but then again my core is on the large size.You get what you pay for,so don't expect a lot for £80.
    #2
  4. dubhyper
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    dubhyper Illegally Street

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    [Oct 8, 2006]
    Ive just got in touch with someone about having it all custom made...Thinks i is going down that route now.Unless something better comes up....
    The kit did look a bit cheap and nasty...to be honest , im eager. but im glad i didnt buy it. Custom pipework much better, if this gezzer comes back with a decent price.fingers crossed.
    #3
  5. KEF A3 20V T
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    KEF A3 20V T Turbo's Rule

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    [Oct 8, 2006]
    what type of FMIC have you bought? some connect straight to the standard pipework!!
    #4
  6. dubhyper
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    dubhyper Illegally Street

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    [Oct 8, 2006]
    This cooler is quite big. Its not a standard replacement...ill take a picture and put it on my profile. This not gonna be a straight forward job. I never do things the easyway..:arco: give me 5, 20.48 now
    #5
  7. ANDYTQ
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    ANDYTQ Active Member

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    [Oct 8, 2006]
    No they don't, all have some extra piping whether its samco or metal.Plus standard ko3/s piping is sh*te,who ever heard of interCOOLing piping that is mounted above the exhaust manifold.
    #6
  8. KEF A3 20V T
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    KEF A3 20V T Turbo's Rule

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    [Oct 8, 2006]
    well ok they connect using some metal and silicone pipework to the standard pipework! lol.
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  9. KEF A3 20V T
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    KEF A3 20V T Turbo's Rule

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    [Oct 8, 2006]
    Hmmmmm well yea thats a big momma! that will need some custom pipework i guess! i have been trying figure out my pipe runs for when i get my ic built! i had decided to come from the turbo outlet to the left of the engine then in between the engine and battery. down to below the headlight and cut a hole thru the plastic to connect to the ic. Then from the other side of the ic to the intake manifold where the old ic used to be! dunno if that is any use to ya?

    is the ic made to fit the car or is it universal?? because i also think the bumper bar has to be adapted to fit the ic behind it?

    i am sure if am wrong some1 will put me rite!
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  10. ANDYTQ
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    ANDYTQ Active Member

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    [Oct 8, 2006]
    Yep thats the cool route i took,less piping too.
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  11. dubhyper
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    dubhyper Illegally Street

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  12. ANDYTQ
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    ANDYTQ Active Member

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    [Oct 8, 2006]
    Bumper bar did need slight adjustment and i moved rad back an inch to help with clearance.Fmic is custom one off
    #11
  13. dubhyper
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    dubhyper Illegally Street

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    [Oct 8, 2006]
    this one made by a yanky firm called xo2 racing.they race motorbike but make rads and other bits (handmade of course)...they sell them for jetta/ golf gti turbos
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  14. KEF A3 20V T
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    KEF A3 20V T Turbo's Rule

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    [Oct 8, 2006]
    you need to come out from ur turbo then go right past ur dv, then a 90 bend below ur maf sensor, between batteries and engine, then another 90 to point the pipe down below ur headlight! then 180 it back into ur ic! make ne sence?????
    #13
  15. dubhyper
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    dubhyper Illegally Street

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    [Oct 8, 2006]
    understanding..fully. i think i will spend a an hour playing tomorrrow at some point. and call this bloke some ones recomended...;) .hopefully by saturday ill be able to start...back tommorrow wid an update, cheers guys
    #14
  16. dubhyper
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    dubhyper Illegally Street

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    [Oct 14, 2006]
    Im mounting the fmic today. Not connecting pipework just yet. As above still got to have that made up (custom).
    Any last hints or tips or forsight would be great. Im nipping down to b&q to get some bits of metal to make up mounting brackets as the f'in cooler didnt come with any..NP i can make it at home. :icon_thumright:
    #15
  17. Defratos
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    Defratos You’re Dethpicable!!

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    [Oct 14, 2006]
    sweet, would be nice to see the finished product mate ( :jump:pics:jump: pics:jump:pics) lol
    #16
  18. dubhyper
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    dubhyper Illegally Street

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    [Oct 14, 2006]
    Basically:zen: .... what a day.... fantastic. Had so much fun; engineering with powertools (amazing what entertains the mind of a 28 year old.)
    heres the blow by blow.

    1)Removed the bumper...
    Shizzen the coolers TOO big to fit behind the crash bar... thought about resetting the aircon and engine rads further back, but to much hassel. Also though about removing the crash bar alltogether...no..not safe so ....decided ill cut out a section out of the crashbar to allow for room for cooler to sit behind......easy.
    2) worked out some plans for the easiest way to get the cooler mounted...10/15mins of ruff drawings. poking,proding pulling yanking to see what would take the weight.

    3) trip down to b&q. (in mates 200sx) Buy some nuts,washers, bolts, angle grinder blades, plus flat and L shapped sections to make up mounts/brackets.
    4) get back from b&q , stuffed with burrgerking, keen to get back to work.
    5) removed centre guide/support for crash bar(crash bar was off car allready)
    6) made top mount for cooler first, a simple "L" shaped bar that runs across both top mounts. drilled hoes for bolts etc..
    7) cut centre section down from part "5". and hammer so sits flat/flush to "l" shape bar.... , cut bolt holes and kill all drill bits in the process
    8) test fit cooler mounted
    9) take crash bar, offered up to original mounting position...now way off , and wont fit for love nore money, marked out a section to be cut away to allow enuff room for the cooler and then some..need to allow for gap between airrcon rad and intercooler. at least 5mm to be safe, and between crash bar and intercooler which i have 10mm.
    10) cut crash bar up..., light, thin, soft alluminium....angle grinder cuts through like hot knife to butter.
    11) trip to halfords, Drill bits all worn out.....
    12) bought self tapping screws, 1m of fuel line and new heavy duty drill bits.
    13) cut fuel pipe the whole way down length and then cut it in half. so i have 2 x 50cm lengths with slit all the way down one side. this is so i can protect the cooler from the crash bar i just cut up..
    14) Test fitted the cooler and crash bar...everthing fits lovely..
    15) now 6pm and running out of light....try to test fit bumper...
    16) no joy,,,,which i knew would be the case anyway. so with light against me, decide to call it a day...
    17) removed new cooler, fitted bumper back , as i need the car tonight...

    so the plan for tommorrow is...up at crack of dawn. Sort bottom mount for cooler...cut bumper up, or rather out, to allow for bottom side of new cooler to fit and refit bumper again....then the pipe work will be next weeks...adventure...:rockwoot:

    couple of picture of howfar i got on the profile..will update again tomorrrow.
    #17
  19. Tallpaul
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    Tallpaul Member

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    [Oct 14, 2006]
    crash bar is designed to absorb the force of an impact and then distribute that force down the sides of the car so the force isn't carried straight to the engine block. this handily reduces the chances of a front end collision resulting in the engine sitting on your lap.

    the cutting you have done will significantly reduce the ability of the crash bar to do this. in all probability, in the event of a front impact it'd just buckle and the majority of the force of the impact will continue straight through to the engine.

    don't mean to rain on your parade but you have reduced the safety of your car for the sake of improved charge cooling. simply madness in my eyes.
    #18
  20. Ess_Three
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    Ess_Three Active Member

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    [Oct 14, 2006]
    Agree 100%
    If the FMIC doesn't fit with the crash bar as it is...it's wrong for the car.

    Also, consider the possible implications of having an accident if the structural integrity of your vehicle is compromised as a result of you getting medieval with a grinder! You may find your insurance company get a bit upset, should the worst happen.

    In my eyes, ANY modification that weakens the vehicle is a stupid one.
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  21. dubhyper
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    dubhyper Illegally Street

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    [Oct 15, 2006]
    Of course it’s made the crash bar weaker. That’s obvious,
    But I really am not to bothered. Famous last words come to mind of course.
    I’m not saying that I would advise anyone to do what ive done.
    It would be interesting to know by how much it has weakened the crash bar compared with an unmolested one.
    I.e. its capability of handling tensile, compressive and shear stress.
    I personally think the modification I have made, with a fair understanding of aluminium’s properties will have little effect at low speed impact. Aluminium is so soft, they use this because it absorbs impact force before it pass's the remaining force it cant absorb through the body and chassi of the car.. just as much as to redirect the force to certain areas of the car.
    The crashbar is only for impact in the front of the car. as an example, an engine strut brace in a smack would cause you more damage than the cutting away i have done. this is beacuse it is a ridgid piece of metal designed to stiffen the chasis only. so the force directed towards the driver becomes in a sense applified.
    The force of impact will still pass in the same direction however the crash bar is more likely to brake in two. i personally believe this is also unlikely as the bar is so soft anyway that it will just bend and twist more accutely.

    If the crash bar sole purpose were to distribute force it would be made of a stronger stiffer material.

    At high speeds, the impact will result in a greater deformation of the crash bar and other areas of the car that the impact is designed to past through.
    This may also result in areas of the car having the force of impact past through them that may not otherwise of occurred, had I not cut the crash bar back..of course this result could be fatel, but at the speed of impact we are talking i would probably be dead anyway.. This is where insurance comes in and replaces everything. Of course this is saying I make through a high-speed crash, and indeed that it happens in the first place.... So I’m not to fussed and It can all be put back to standard if im worried in the future. its only a new crash bar .
    im silly but not stupid. I did make the decision to cut the bar in a sound understanding of the consequences.
    Saying all of this,its allways good to here feedback from people. And you guys are right as i said before.. I understand your concerns. i am fully happy with what ive done. Its not for everyone, but it works for me.
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  22. Ess_Three
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    Ess_Three Active Member

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    [Oct 15, 2006]
    Weaken it...yes.
    At what cost in a moderate front end shunt?
    The front panel?
    The front panel and air con rediator?
    The front panel, air con radiator and coolant radiator?
    The front panel, air con radiator, coolant radiator, electric fans and the headlights?


    All I'm saying is that you can get an effective FMIC fitted and NOT risk any more damage if you buy the correct sized IC to start with. There is room...why take the risk?


    I wasn't just referring to high speed, messy smashes...but 20MPH type stuff....where the dirrerence between a bumper skin and a crash bar, and all of the above may be the crash bar you've weakened.
    Seems a bit of a risk to me.
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  23. ANDYTQ
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    ANDYTQ Active Member

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    [Oct 15, 2006]
    I also agree thats why it was so much hassle to fit mine without cutting the crash bar.
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  24. SwedeS3
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    SwedeS3 Member

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    [Oct 15, 2006]
    Hi, just been reading this thread about having to cut crash bar etc, something i wouldnt like to do either.

    I have been looking at getting a tcarbon FMIC from the states and its dimensions are 28"x9"x3". It's tricky though because that is the TOTAL width and
    it's not that wide at all points. The actual "core" is 21"x9"x3" , can you guys tell me what dimensions the S3 designed Fmics are so that you dont have to cut the crash bar.

    Cheers
    #23
  25. god_thats_quick
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    god_thats_quick Numptie of the highest order

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    [Oct 15, 2006]
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  26. Defratos
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    Defratos You’re Dethpicable!!

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    [Oct 26, 2006]
    any one know what dimensions the Forge FMIC is?
    #25
  27. Forge
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    Forge Member

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    [Nov 1, 2006]
    The Forge crash bar is modified to take the plumbing but the modification is to the back webbing not to any major structural parts of the bumper
    we have this kit on a TUV approved German tunesr car !
    #26
  28. dubhyper
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    dubhyper Illegally Street

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    [Nov 1, 2006]
    i really wish i never started this post sometimes...
    #27
  29. Forge
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    Forge Member

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  30. Defratos
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    Defratos You’re Dethpicable!!

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    [Nov 5, 2006]
    Ok now this seriously doesn't make sense. Ok why does it seem that with the Forge FMIC they've cut a fair chunk of the crash bar from the rear (as seen in pics from their site), and when Dub here cut a lil bit off everyone started slating him? I mean don't they both do the same modification to the crash bar?? because what's the point in getting a Forge FMIC if I'm still going to cut the crash bar? whats the point? they're both the same thing?
    #29
  31. Defratos
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    Defratos You’re Dethpicable!!

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    [Nov 5, 2006]
    ok I get it now :p
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  32. dubhyper
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    dubhyper Illegally Street

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