Fixed the s3 and found out its remapped :).

Dani_B19

Dani_B19

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I am so fooking excited.

Ive only gone and sorted my car out and in the process found out its remapped.

Now im not going to tell you how ive fixed it, due to im too embarrased to admit why it was broke in the first place, haha.

But my god, the car is just sooo fast, it boost to around 21psi and just pins to to your seat.

BUT........

There's always something isnt there haha.

Ive got these 2 fault codes:
16487/P0103/000259 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) (G70): Signal too High

17963/P1555 - Boost Pressure Control: Upper Limit Exceeded

Now the first one is obvious, the thing that gets me, the maf is only a month old if that, ive got the receipt for this so itll be going back and see if a replacement works.

Now the second one, i dont know where to start, ross tech says this:

Possible Symptoms

  • Reduced power output
  • Limp mode
Possible Causes

  • Boost Pressure too High
  • Hoses/Pipes incorrect connected, disconnected, blocked or leaking
  • Charger Pressure Control defective
    • VNT (variable nozzle turbo): nozzles stuck
  • Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) defective
Possible Solutions

  • Check Hoses/Pipes to/between Components
  • Check Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
  • Check / Clean / Replace Charge Pressure Control
    • Check / Clean mechanism for variable nozzles
So any thoughts :).
 
Also, i took the car out and logged it with vag com but the files saved weird and i cant open it, any ideas on that!
 
Come on fess up lad, takes bigger man to accept his flaws :p
 
Ok ok, about 18 month ago, i fitted a SFS intake pipe, i only went and fitted the n75 valve the wrong ****** way round :(, to say i feel a t*wt is the understatment of the century, lmfao.
 
Yup, total **** up on my part haha, thing is all the vac leaks are fixed now so the car runs fine except the 2 things above, i think thats why i never fully realised it was remapped when i bought it.
 
ha ha thats quite funny cos i did the same thing but fortunately realised straight away cos it wasnt boosting very much
 
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Reactions: darren t
Nice result for you, if a bit embarassing! You'll have to change the thing under your name to 'Just found out it's mapped!' :lmfao:
 
Oooh yes, tbh, in my deffence, when i first the bought the car i didnt have a god damn clue about cars and it was my first turbo haha, ive grwon up alot since then lol.
 
Well done Dan.....you thick t*at ....only joking....

I would say the signal to high problem could be, its being running for god knows how long at 6 psi and has "learnt it" dry doing an ecu reset
and/or do the rev till 3000k and hold it and it should read 10g/s (in neutral)
 
Haha, nar dave your right, im am lol, but i cant believe ive managed to do that, feel a right spoon.

Yeah i thought that about a reset, you think itll solve the problem with the maf or do you think the mafs knackered?

Weird thing is, itll drive perfect in 1st,2nd and 3rd but then in 4th, 5th and 6th when booting it, it wont go past 12/15psi, but if i easy the throttle, itll reach 21 psi, does that make sense?
 
audi upgrades
Well it costs you nothing to try it....

You be careful with your new found power.....had you not been out in another s3 then, to guage the power?
signal high is unusual, it means its running past (or to quick for the map;)) the map basically... it may have been a 1 off, reset the ecu, clear it and go from there
 
Last edited:
Dan, see my post on SCN for unlocking a CSG file.

18mths, haha that's special but when I ran with a dead N75 for a little while, the car was still quicker than most things on the road :). Different ball game when it's working though right ;).
 
Well my best mates just bought a red s3, keep telling him to get on here but hes a lazy ****, from what i can tell hes got a stage 1 cc package, the one with the panel filter and dv, his is rappid but it may not be remapped, what with my been so slow owt felt fast haha, mine does feel faster than his though. The noise the jetex and dv makes on mine is unreal.

Well ive reset the codes 4 times tonight, ive been doing alot of driving haha and they keep coming back.

Ive just nipped out and unplugged the battery, ill resest the ecu and take it easy to work tomorrow, then on the way home ill start easing it and see how it goes from there, still going to phone the car shop i bought the maf off and see what i can do about a replacement.
 
Yeah thanks jam jay, got the file open, you want to see it, haha, its a bit messy lol.

Thursday,16,June,2011,20:45:30
8L0 906 018 K,,1.8L R4/5VT 0004,
,Group A:,'001,,,,Group B:,'002,,,,Group C:,'003
,,RPM,Temperature,Lambda,Bin. Bits,,RPM,Load,Inj. On Time,Mass Flow,,RPM,Mass Flow,Load,Ign. Timing
,TIME,,,,,TIME,,,,,TIME,,,,
Marker,STAMP, /min,°C,%,,STAMP, /min,%, ms, g/s,STAMP, /min, g/s,%, °BTDC
,0.58,0,90.0,0.0,10110111,0.98,0,100.0,0.00,0.00,1.38,0,0.00,0.8,0.0
Thursday,16,June,2011,20:51:11
8L0 906 018 K,,1.8L R4/5VT 0004,
,Group A:,'001,,,,Group B:,'002,,,,Group C:,'003
,,RPM,Temperature,Lambda,Bin. Bits,,RPM,Load,Inj. On Time,Mass Flow,,RPM,Mass Flow,Load,Ign. Timing
,TIME,,,,,TIME,,,,,TIME,,,,
Marker,STAMP, /min,°C,%,,STAMP, /min,%, ms, g/s,STAMP, /min, g/s,%, °BTDC
,0.00,2000,90.0,-13.3,11101001,0.40,2120,103.8,8.20,43.50,0.82,2240,49.64,92.2,15.0
,1.20,2360,90.0,0.0,11100001,1.62,2480,132.3,12.30,65.14,2.02,2640,75.69,97.6,11.3
,2.42,2800,90.0,0.0,11100001,2.82,2960,191.0,18.45,115.64,3.22,3200,149.31,100.0,6.8
,3.62,3520,90.0,0.0,11100001,4.02,3720,184.2,20.09,155.25,4.42,3880,118.92,24.3,11.3
,4.82,4080,90.0,0.0,01100001,5.22,4240,121.1,12.71,129.11,5.62,4400,137.61,24.3,19.5
,6.02,4560,90.0,6.3,01100001,6.42,4720,111.3,12.30,135.75,6.82,4880,135.53,24.3,16.5
,7.22,5000,90.0,5.5,01100001,7.62,5160,108.3,12.30,150.61,8.02,5320,150.61,25.5,15.8
,8.41,5440,90.0,0.0,01100001,8.81,5560,109.8,12.30,160.44,9.21,5720,162.75,26.3,16.5
,9.61,5840,90.0,0.0,01100001,10.01,5960,102.3,11.48,164.69,10.41,6080,165.83,25.9,18.0
,10.81,6160,90.0,0.0,01100001,11.31,6120,16.5,1.64,0.00,11.71,5040,111.81,25.5,24.0
,12.11,4800,90.0,0.0,01100001,12.61,4880,102.3,9.84,111.81,13.01,4920,128.89,23.9,21.0
,13.41,5000,90.0,4.7,01100001,13.81,5080,107.5,11.89,137.72,14.21,5160,135.97,24.7,15.8
,14.61,5240,90.0,0.0,01100001,15.01,5320,109.0,12.30,140.97,15.41,5400,141.56,25.5,14.3
,15.81,5440,90.0,0.0,01100001,16.21,5440,63.2,6.56,44.44,16.61,5400,0.94,2.0,35.3
,17.01,5360,90.0,0.0,01110101,17.41,5280,4.5,0.00,4.22,17.81,5080,5.22,2.7,10.5
,18.21,4880,90.0,0.0,01110101,18.61,4680,5.3,0.00,4.94,19.01,4480,5.06,3.1,9.8
,19.41,4320,90.0,0.0,01110101,19.81,4200,6.0,0.00,4.67,20.20,4120,5.78,3.5,9.8
,20.60,4040,90.0,0.0,01110101,21.00,3880,7.5,0.00,6.03,21.39,3640,6.11,3.9,9.8
,21.80,3400,90.0,0.0,01110101,22.19,3160,9.0,0.00,5.86,22.59,2920,4.42,2.4,9.8
 
It looks like you topped out at 165g/s@ 6000rpm i think,,, it hurts your eyes that bleeder.... so would suggest there is a problem OR your car is not mapped!! 206bhp, not sure why the boost would be so high though, if it was standard
 
Holy cr@p! Does wrapping it in code make it better?

Code: 
Thursday,16,June,2011,20:45:30
8L0 906 018 K,,1.8L R4/5VT         0004,
,Group A:,'001,,,,Group B:,'002,,,,Group C:,'003
,,RPM,Temperature,Lambda,Bin. Bits,,RPM,Load,Inj. On Time,Mass Flow,,RPM,Mass Flow,Load,Ign. Timing
,TIME,,,,,TIME,,,,,TIME,,,,
Marker,STAMP, /min,°C,%,,STAMP, /min,%, ms, g/s,STAMP, /min, g/s,%, °BTDC
,0.58,0,90.0,0.0,10110111,0.98,0,100.0,0.00,0.00,1  .38,0,0.00,0.8,0.0
Thursday,16,June,2011,20:51:11
8L0 906 018 K,,1.8L R4/5VT         0004,
,Group A:,'001,,,,Group B:,'002,,,,Group C:,'003
,,RPM,Temperature,Lambda,Bin. Bits,,RPM,Load,Inj. On Time,Mass Flow,,RPM,Mass Flow,Load,Ign. Timing
,TIME,,,,,TIME,,,,,TIME,,,,
Marker,STAMP, /min,°C,%,,STAMP, /min,%, ms, g/s,STAMP, /min, g/s,%, °BTDC
,0.00,2000,90.0,-13.3,11101001,0.40,2120,103.8,8.20,43.50,0.82,2240  ,49.64,92.2,15.0
,1.20,2360,90.0,0.0,11100001,1.62,2480,132.3,12.30  ,65.14,2.02,2640,75.69,97.6,11.3
,2.42,2800,90.0,0.0,11100001,2.82,2960,191.0,18.45  ,115.64,3.22,3200,149.31,100.0,6.8
 ,3.62,3520,90.0,0.0,11100001,4.02,3720,184.2,20.09  ,155.25,4.42,3880,118.92,24.3,11.3
,4.82,4080,90.0,0.0,01100001,5.22,4240,121.1,12.71  ,129.11,5.62,4400,137.61,24.3,19.5
,6.02,4560,90.0,6.3,01100001,6.42,4720,111.3,12.30  ,135.75,6.82,4880,135.53,24.3,16.5
,7.22,5000,90.0,5.5,01100001,7.62,5160,108.3,12.30  ,150.61,8.02,5320,150.61,25.5,15.8
,8.41,5440,90.0,0.0,01100001,8.81,5560,109.8,12.30  ,160.44,9.21,5720,162.75,26.3,16.5
,9.61,5840,90.0,0.0,01100001,10.01,5960,102.3,11.4  8,164.69,10.41,6080,165.83,25.9,18.0
,10.81,6160,90.0,0.0,01100001,11.31,6120,16.5,1.64  ,0.00,11.71,5040,111.81,25.5,24.0
,12.11,4800,90.0,0.0,01100001,12.61,4880,102.3,9.8  4,111.81,13.01,4920,128.89,23.9,21.0
,13.41,5000,90.0,4.7,01100001,13.81,5080,107.5,11.  89,137.72,14.21,5160,135.97,24.7,15.8
,14.61,5240,90.0,0.0,01100001,15.01,5320,109.0,12.  30,140.97,15.41,5400,141.56,25.5,14.3
,15.81,5440,90.0,0.0,01100001,16.21,5440,63.2,6.56  ,44.44,16.61,5400,0.94,2.0,35.3
,17.01,5360,90.0,0.0,01110101,17.41,5280,4.5,0.00,  4.22,17.81,5080,5.22,2.7,10.5
,18.21,4880,90.0,0.0,01110101,18.61,4680,5.3,0.00,  4.94,19.01,4480,5.06,3.1,9.8
,19.41,4320,90.0,0.0,01110101,19.81,4200,6.0,0.00,  4.67,20.20,4120,5.78,3.5,9.8
,20.60,4040,90.0,0.0,01110101,21.00,3880,7.5,0.00,  6.03,21.39,3640,6.11,3.9,9.8
,21.80,3400,90.0,0.0,01110101,22.19,3160,9.0,0.00,  5.86,22.59,2920,4.42,2.4,9.8

Errr kinda. Well 165g/s tops like Dave said which indicates unmapped 210bhp model however shouldn't be boosting 21psi. Sooo, your car thinks it's unmapped but is trying to boost like it has been remapped which would point out why the MAF & N75 hit peaks and threw errors?
 
Last edited:
Dani_B19 said:
Ok ok, about 18 month ago, i fitted a SFS intake pipe, i only went and fitted the n75 valve the wrong ****** way round :(, to say i feel a t*wt is the understatment of the century, lmfao.
Click to expand...


HAHA didnt I say in your build thread check to see if your N75 was on correctly.

Just to let you know I recently put a N75 valve on my car and got them both fault codes and extreme overboost.

Im 90% sure your car is not mapped without even looking at your logs, its doing EXACTLY what mine has been doing and its not mapped, Sorry to be a party pooper lol
 
Last edited:
Balls nath, lmfao.

So your having the same trouble then mate? Guessing youve not fixed it yet? Any ideas?

Tbh if its not mapped i dont mind im just glad its as fast as it is, cant understand why it boost to 21 psi though!
Well ive reset the ecu and ill see how it drives tomorrow :).
 
So do we think the n75 is ****** which is causing the boost tobe so high, the maf then isnt set up for this (mafs only set for standard map boost, so 11-12psi) which is causing the maf reading too high error code? Why did i not realise all this when i had you n75 dave haha.
 
Dani_B19 said:
Balls nath, lmfao.

So your having the same trouble then mate? Guessing youve not fixed it yet? Any ideas?

Tbh if its not mapped i dont mind im just glad its as fast as it is, cant understand why it boost to 21 psi though!
Well ive reset the ecu and ill see how it drives tomorrow :).
Click to expand...

Lol ye it is a big statement but im sure its not mapped. It probably feels really fast now because you been running your N75 the wrong way round for a long time with very little boost.

Il tell you my little experience on this. I been running a J valve with a yellow spring in my DV for possibly a year or more. The other day I thought my car felt a bit flat and thought having a yellow spring would be stresses my turbo because its not making that much boost to really require one (bit more than standard boost level due to the J valve I was running). So I put my N75 F valve back on (Original S3 valve) and a green spring back in my DV. For some reason the car instantly felt stronger but when I looked at my boost gauge it was way to high for an OEM map. It was boosting to same as you 20-21 psi one seconds then 5 minutes later was boosting around 3-5psi then back to high. It was over/under boosting.

Now as far as I can remember when I was running the F valve it was in perfect working order. But since putting it back on I was getting either very low or very high boost which to me says that I could have a sticky N75 (If you can have one lol). I put vag com on and got the exact same codes as you. I have deleted them and the car still seems to be boosting really high but havent checked to see if the codes come back. I havent really driven the car hard since getting the high boost because I doubt the OEM map can adjust the fuelling for the boost levels its producing. But the charge pressure code is very likely to be because the N75 is not doing its job in controlling the amount of boost being produced and its exceeded what the OEM map considers safe. The MAF code is related because the boost levels its seeing it too high for what its been setup to read on an OEM map. I may be completely wrong and your car is mapped but I doubt it.

I may be rumbling on now but I would say your N75 is over boosting. My advice would be to be easy on the boost because if your on a OEM map you may be running quite lean with that high boost levels on OEM fuelling.
 
Last edited:
I wonder if somebody has had a play with the preload on the actuator?? Your overboost would point to the N75, would be a lot safer to run the car with the N75 unplugged as you'll be running super lean on boost
 
Nath it sounds like the exact thing as mine, ive recently switched from a green spring to a yellow. I did notice earlier, when i booted it in lower gears itd spike but them booting it in the higher gears itd just make standard boost, if i ease the throttle i can get it to 21 psi in all gears.
Just going to bight the bullet and order a new n75 off here
N75 boost valve, standard 058F original version Products German Auto Parts Directs
 
Thats what I would do. Get a new N75 because your problems seems to be related to that. If its not you know you can rule that out but its a good place to start.
 
Hang on a minute here folks, I think we've all jumped the gun a bit.....

Can someone please explain to me, how an incorrectly fitted N75 will reduce boost?

A working N75 bleeds air off to stop the actuator opening, and thus raises boost.

If you get the in/out wrong on the N75, but still have the long tab in the TIP, then surely air will still flow through it and the boost won't change? That's option one.

Option 2. If I'm wrong, and air WON'T flow through it when plumbed as in option 1, then no air will be sent to the actuator, and it'll never open. Boost will increase, as it'll be 100% uncontrolled.

Option 3. Either charge pipe or actuator feed are connected to long tail (intended for TIP fitment) This is the typical 'backwards' fitment of the N75.

There's a huge retarded following on UKMKIVS that beliefe this is the best way to run a car, because it makes it 'way faster'

That's because again, like option 2, no air is sent to the actuator, so it never opens and the car runs unlimited boost.

Does it not sound more likely, that Dani had his N75 in the correct way previously, and has NOW got it installed backwards running uncontrolled boost?

Short of forgetting to disconnect it, I fail to see how an incorrectly fitted N75 will reduce boost in this way.
 
OE fitment:

- TIP attatches to the long N75 nipple
- Charge Air hose attatches to the bottom N75 nipple
- Wastegate hose attaches to the left (opposite to TIP side) nipple
 
audi upgrades
Prawn said:
Hang on a minute here folks, I think we've all jumped the gun a bit.....

Can someone please explain to me, how an incorrectly fitted N75 will reduce boost?

A working N75 bleeds air off to stop the actuator opening, and thus raises boost.

If you get the in/out wrong on the N75, but still have the long tab in the TIP, then surely air will still flow through it and the boost won't change? That's option one.

Option 2. If I'm wrong, and air WON'T flow through it when plumbed as in option 1, then no air will be sent to the actuator, and it'll never open. Boost will increase, as it'll be 100% uncontrolled.

Option 3. Either charge pipe or actuator feed are connected to long tail (intended for TIP fitment) This is the typical 'backwards' fitment of the N75.

There's a huge retarded following on UKMKIVS that beliefe this is the best way to run a car, because it makes it 'way faster'

That's because again, like option 2, no air is sent to the actuator, so it never opens and the car runs unlimited boost.

Does it not sound more likely, that Dani had his N75 in the correct way previously, and has NOW got it installed backwards running uncontrolled boost?

Short of forgetting to disconnect it, I fail to see how an incorrectly fitted N75 will reduce boost in this way.
Click to expand...

Was playing around with my mates N75 the other day and that went straight into limp mode as soon as it was started because the N75 was not installed correctly. It ran perfectly fine but with low boost.

Danis has installed it correctly now but the N75 is faulty and giving him them faults and the high boost.
 
Last edited:
S3 Nattie said:
Was playing around with my mates N75 the other day and that went straight into limp mode as soon as it was started because the N75 was not installed correctly. It ran perfectly fine but with low boost.

Danis has installed it correctly now but the N75 is faulty and giving him them faults and the high boost.
Click to expand...

The error about exceeding boost limit has always been down to a faulty N75 in my experience but if the car isn't mapped I wouldn't expect the boost to be as high as 21psi even with a shagged N75. 4-5psi boost creep max maybe.
 
I see what your saying. But this has happened to me the other day, exact same thing. Changed my N75 over from J - F and straight away got 20 psi and my cars 100% running an OEM map. Then the same 2 faults came up as Dani got and the only thing changed was the N75 plus a spring in the DV.

I wouldn't have thought it either to be fair but my boost was going nuts, either massive over/under boost values I was getting which leads me to believe my N75 is "sticking" if it can be described like that. Funny though because IIRC the N75 F was working fine before I removed it ages ago lol.
 
Last edited:
N75 fitted the wrong way round does and will give you perma actuator pressure. Its when the actuator hose is connected to the long tail (Normally the TIP air bleedoff), you ALWAYS get some air going down there, and with the low PSI actuator on the 1.8ts, pretty much any airflow down the actuator pipe is enough to crack the actuator.

Bill had someone at the RR day, who had the opposite issue, N75 fitted the other, other way, and the boost was completely uncontrolled.

N75 has 3 fitted positions. Correct. Slow, and VERY bad.
 
Last edited:
Ah the RR day i remember it so well as i nearly took my sump out on that ****** bump lol
 
That second fault code is related to your 21psi spike I reckon Dan... seems like the N75 may still be fitted the wrong way... long one in the TIP, boost in the bottom and the last one to the actuator...

If your car is std (165gs suggests it is) then that explains why the ECU is getting a little upset at seeing 21psi...

<tuffty/>
 
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