Fitting Fuel Sender Unit??

MikeSel^

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Hello All

Does anyone have any experience with fitting fuel sender units to an A3 SportBack? (05 Plate)

I have recently purchased one to resolve issues with mis reported fuel levels, but could do with a 'how to' on the fitting.

I have searched the internet and the forums but can't seem to find anything.

I know you have to take everything out of the boot, but that's all I know.

Cheers
Mike
 
Well you'll need to bleed the fuel lines when you put new one in mate, but removing & fitting isnt hard as its just few pipes/connectors, was under the rear seat for 3dr.
 
Cheers mate.

It's a 5 door, so guessing it will be in the boot somewhere.

I have a mate who knows a bit more about them then me, and we will hopefully be doing the install soon.

Maybe we'll be able to put a picture full how-to together for the site :)
 
Hi mate.

I think I need to change the sender unit my self. I've be waiting for your instruction on how to. :uhm:

Josip
 
Well you could liftout the pump from under the rear seat & then swap the sender parts over, its not that difficult, but not sure if the pipes have enough slack in them to not have to disconnect the pump, so may need bleeding afterwards, easy way to check, lift seat & take of the protective cover then see if pipes have some slack.
 
Right then.. Managed to get mine done, but typically my camera has packed in so no photo's i'm afraid.

Im also not mechanically minded in any way shape or form, so apologies for some of my parts descriptions

1. Lift out the bottom rear seat - Remove the baby seat clips then lift seat upwards, slide out of door and into the front of the car for safe clean storage.
2. Unclip the snap clip wires from onto of the rubber cover on seat base behind drivers seat.
3. Lift off the rubber cover and place safely to one side.
4. Disconnect the blue and black pipes, and place in a pot to collect fuel from pipes (shouldn't be much)
5. Use hammer and long flat bladed screw driver to turn round the metal locking bracket type thing
6. Fuel pump is almost spring loaded so should pop upwards, lift out slowly allowing time for fuel to drain from entry hole.
7. Tilt the pump slightly to the left allowing remaining fuel to drain out and to get the fuel sender plastic level out from the tank.
8. Empty out any remaining fuel, and place on plastic (car mat or similar) out side of car for easy access.
9. Make a note of the 3 wires connection points, to ensure you put them back in the right place. (We stayed old fashioned, and used the shortest cable must go first method like a true professional)
10. Use a flat bladed screw driver and prize out the small plugs
11. Slide the plastic connector downwards and off the side of the fuel pump.
12. Cable up the new sender using the cable positioning you made a note of earlier.
13. Slide the plastic sender back onto the side of the pump
15. Place the rubber seal back around the fuel tank hole (carefully otherwise you will be arm deep in petrol hunting for it)
16. Carefully feed the fuel pump back into the tank, making sure the blue 'lug' is pointing to the back of the car.
17. Place the metal ring back on, and tap back round until tight.
18. Push the blue and black pipes back into place.
19. Reconnect the push block connectors on the top of the rubber covers
20. Place rubber cover back onto of the fuel pump
21. Cross fingers and attempt to start the car
22. If you're still reading this, all is still well and your car is still in one piece.

Big thanks goto pjmspeedy for providing the parts, with a fast delivery service and good communications as always!

Hope this helps someone\anyone!
 
sounds the same as other cars I've done it on. We are of course lucky - we have petrol & not diesel so no air locks to worry about.