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Finally found an S3!

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by SamiG, Mar 24, 2010.

  1. SamiG
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    SamiG On Boost, ish.

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    [Mar 24, 2010]
    So i have been searching high and low looking on every car classifieds going for about 2 months with no joy :(

    Now i've finally found exactly what i'm looking for!

    Imola Yellow facelift 210 S3. I wanted the 210 as its considerably cheaper to insure over the 225. And i plan on doing a bit on tinkering and i understand once re-mapped they both come out with the same power figures :)

    I wanted something mint with fair mileage (70-80k) in totally standard form with full black leather and as many extras as possible. Also had to have FSH with the big cambelt/water pump service already carried out.

    I was starting to give up hope as i was dead set on Imola Yellow then a few days ago one came up.

    So i'm off travelling up the country on Friday to view it with the intentions of buying! :)

    Any tips/advice as to what to look out for? its just had a fresh MOT and just had a full HPI check but are there any obvious or common flaws/faults i should look out for?

    Thanks in advance!
    #1
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  3. voorhees
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    voorhees Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    [Mar 24, 2010]
    Loads,where to start ? roof rails and bumper strips corrosion
    #2
  4. Dansmith
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    Dansmith Member

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    [Mar 24, 2010]
    other than the normal check for rust along the roof rales! can be fixed under warranty if it hasn't been fixed before! Other than that! enjoy
    #3
  5. SamiG
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    SamiG On Boost, ish.

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    [Mar 24, 2010]
    By bumper strips do you mean the door and quarter panel trims? Is that a primary spot for rust then?

    Thanks
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  6. SamiG
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    SamiG On Boost, ish.

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  7. voorhees
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    voorhees Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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  8. thegoal007
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    thegoal007 Another S3 owner....

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    [Mar 24, 2010]
    double check service history with whoever stamped the book.
    Anyway, surely after tinkering and mapping to bring it up to a similar 225 engine power the insurance will be a lot higher than just insuring a 225 in the first place ?

    Also I have to add if the difference in insurance costs between the 2 worry you than I would think carefully if you will be able to afford to run one ! Albeit I understand you are trying to minimize this by buying one with the cam belt already done.
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2010
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  9. wibble111
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    wibble111 needs to scratch the itch

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    [Mar 25, 2010]
    Another area prone for rusting is the trim where the boot lock is. Dead pixels in the DIS are also quite annoying but dont think it'd put me off buying one if it was a nice example, just turn off the DIS.
    #8
  10. SamiG
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    SamiG On Boost, ish.

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  11. wibble111
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    wibble111 needs to scratch the itch

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    [Mar 25, 2010]
    Its the driver information system (i think anyway) in the centre of the clocks, shows you avg miles, temp, radio/cd info etc. Mine in my old A3 was shagged and really used to p**s me right off, i didnt know it because it was switched off when i bought it, when i eventually learnt how to switch it on it was shagged and i was mighty upset lol.
    #10
  12. mk1chopper
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    mk1chopper Missing the S3

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    [Mar 25, 2010]
    Check the service history even if it means phoning up the dealers who have stamped it. Check the xenon lights are working and not pointing to the ground, have a look at the springs (around the bases) to check there not snapped. If you can jack the car up check the collers (butts up against the bush) on the ARB's these are prone to breaking off. Check the inside face of the discs, check for uneven tire wear.
    #11
  13. fran-s3
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    fran-s3 Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Mar 25, 2010]
    make sure when you take it for a test run...

    a) no rattles front the front or back (usually suggests arbs or bushes) if so haggle... least £250 if it's the arb to buy and replace at a garage

    b) it goes to 90degs on the water temp and stays their - another common problem mine wouldn't settle when I first bought it... was thermostat I had no idea at the time thought it was normal! Again £100 to sort prob at a garage buy and replace

    c) check the washer motors work esp the rear... My pipe split, common problem easy to replace but again you can haggle

    d) check rust on the lock panel on the boot - common place to rust again common problem mine had rusted... haggle if you can

    e) as mention the dis....

    f) check everything electrical like the seats which are electric check they both higher lower, forward back a and lumbar... press every button in the dash, sunroof, heated seats, parking sensors if any just make sure everthing works... Check all headlights....

    g) check the seat mechanisms... my rear passenger seat when you push lift lever to go to back tilts but doesn't slide!!! common problem I didn't spot when bought and it's annoying me so much... again haggle if you do...

    Hope this all helps....
    #12
  14. finesse
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    finesse Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Mar 25, 2010]
    Full service history oil\filter, Haldex oil\filter, brake fluid
    Cam belt/Water pump 60,000 miles or 5 years


    Essential Checks
    1) Rust on roof rails
    2) Stereo volume problem (can't be fixed, you need to replace stereo)
    3) Window clip problem
    4) Rear wiper
    6) Oil Use (Look for signs of an oil leak, look at exhaust fumes, it could be the Turbo letting oil past the seals)
    7) Electrics on seats check

    Start the car with a cold engine – watch out for delays, starting problems and excessive smoke and excessive noise, Look out for blue smoke, which may indicate an internal oil leak Temperature gauge should sit around the halfway mark, Watch for signs of oil leaks, particularly under and around the top of the engine, Check the oil level is correct – remove the dipstick, wipe with a cloth and replace for a couple of seconds. It should rest between the min and max marks, oil filler cap for a white mayonnaise-like substance – this could indicate a damaged head gasket, Check all switches work – including heaters and air-con, Check the exhaust for excessive noise before driving, Turn the steering wheel from one lock to the other before driving – there should be no screeching, banging or knocking, Test the handbrake by pulling it on and trying to drive off gently, Use all the gears, including reverse, Brake sharply – the car shouldn’t pull to one side, Make sure the car’s mileage tallies with MOT certificates and service history
    #13
  15. gcs3
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    gcs3 New Member

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    [Mar 25, 2010]
    Listen for rattle/grinding noise on startup, and a rattle from engine at around 1800 rpm in lower gears. Possible oil starvation to top of the engine.
    #14

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