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few issues... draining battery, lumpy idleand sounds like a tractor

Discussion in 'A3/S3/Sportback (8P Chassis)' started by hannakournikova, Nov 10, 2008.

  1. hannakournikova
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    hannakournikova New Member

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    [Nov 10, 2008]
    Hi all, have been having a few probs with the new purchase.
    the battery will die completely over 2 days. at first i thought it may be the battery, but got it tested and it was fine.
    another chap said it could be a few things that are not letting the car go into "standby mode" when locked:
    - faulty hazard switch (as it stays illuminated)
    - convenience ecu fried?
    - faulty door locks?
    - door ecu?
    and tonight our very own Boydie connected up to vagcom and nothing relevant flaged up, but it would let him access convenience module....

    oh and car runs lumpy on idle, particularly when warm. had thought EGR but that was replaced 35k ago, could it need cleaned?

    car is 2004 2.0 TDI DSG with 84K
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  3. Khufu
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    Khufu Active Member

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    [Nov 10, 2008]
    The hazard switch stays on for quite a while even after you have locked the doors.

    On the old A3 model the micro switches sometimes went faulty and claimed the door was still open, this could stop the interior light from going out. The tailgate on my car did this and I never noticed until i had the parcel shelf out one day I noticed it was staying on.
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  4. kaz219
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    kaz219 Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Nov 11, 2008]
    a fuse blew on my Golf (not sure what it was) and it caused the car keeping running something....

    This killed the battery around 20times before i noticed what it was...

    I'd start by checking the fuses...
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  5. N8
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    N8 Kowalski Details VCDS Map User

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    [Nov 11, 2008]
    My A3 is in the garage right now for the same thing, I don't mind though got a 58 TT 2.0T that I'm ragging the pants off everywhere!!
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  6. hannakournikova
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    hannakournikova New Member

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    [Nov 11, 2008]
    FFS never thought about the fuses lol
    will check asap when i get home.

    N8KOW - will you update me with what your result was?

    Khufu - the lights go out when car is locked, the hazard lights stays illuminated.
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  7. N8
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    N8 Kowalski Details VCDS Map User

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    [Nov 11, 2008]
    I will do :sly:
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  8. hannakournikova
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    hannakournikova New Member

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    [Nov 13, 2008]
    all fuses are 100%

    apparently its my convenience ecu thats shafted...
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  9. Khufu
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    Khufu Active Member

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    [Nov 13, 2008]
    Thats not very convenient.....

    :tumble:

    At least you know what it is I suppose.
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  10. kaz219
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    kaz219 Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Nov 14, 2008]
    Ouch...sounds expensive....

    How much is that gona set you back
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  11. hannakournikova
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    hannakournikova New Member

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    [Nov 17, 2008]
    sorry in delay guys, have had a pretty **** weekend (flipping women:banghead: )
    well something caught my eye over the weekend (not women :nunu: )
    it seems the the sensor in the door doesnt work, as when the car is on and drivers door open it doesnt say on the dash, although other doors do, along with boot and bonnet.
    also when turn car off and leave lights on, when i open door the buzzer doesnt sound.
    SO....where does this switch live?

    also noticed the wee light in the boot (on left hand side) isnt there, is there a wanted section here or breakers section?

    also, might get it plugged into another computer with vag com (no offence boydie - princess :wub: )
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  12. kaz219
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    kaz219 Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Nov 18, 2008]
    if there light in the boot doesnt work, it should come up with:

    1 Fault Found:
    01565 - Luggage Compartment Light (W3)
    007 - Short to Ground

    Check the actuall sensor in the door which detects whether its open and switch it with the other side; But, on my golf, that never worked and it came up with a centrol something error :S

    1 Fault Found:
    01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
    49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901.LBL
    Part No: 6N0 909 901
    Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
    Coding: 00006
    Shop #: WSC 01271
    1 Fault Found:
    01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
    49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1C0-959-799.LBL
    Part No: 1C0 959 799
    Component: 1Z Komfortgerát HLO 0001
    Coding: 00259
    Shop #: WSC 01271
    Part No: 1C2959802A
    Component: 1Z Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0004
    Part No: 1C2959801A
    Component: 1Z Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0004
    Part No: 1C0959811A
    Component: 1Z Tõrsteuer.HL KLO 0004
    Part No: 1C0959812A
    Component: 1Z Tõrsteuer.HR KLO 0004
    4 Faults Found:
    01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
    53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
    01336 - Data Bus for Comfort System
    80-00 - Single-Wire Operation
    00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking; Front Driver Side (F220)
    27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
    01359 - Internal Central Locking Switch; Passenger Side (E198)
    27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

    I sold it before i could find out what the prob was....

    RE-Vagcom it and at least the light in the boot should come up and if it doesnt, it could be the cetrol conveinience control module that detects these things....

    I dont have access to my car right now but find the bit which detects whether the door is open or not and switch it with the other side and then you can check whether the sensor itself is working....

    and if its not the sensor, the inital theory of the centrol control module ecu thingy being broke could be right..
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  13. kaz219
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    kaz219 Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Nov 18, 2008]
    Haha..tell me about the women. Mine kurbed up the whole of the front wheel! Yes, all the way round. She saisd i heard it rubbing but kept on going... WHY ? Ah well...i think its a reason to get those BBs i always wanted

    And Vagcoms will all be the same and Boydies' does work as it picked up his recent fault!
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  14. hannakournikova
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    hannakournikova New Member

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    [Nov 20, 2008]
    well we will try again tonight, just to be on safe side.
    the woman is out of the picture no all together! just free'd up some cash! :)
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  15. Olimur
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    Olimur New Member

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    [Nov 21, 2008]
    Any joy with resolving this? My heart is broken by my stupid Audi....vorsprung durch technic my a**. Battery has died about 10 times. Thought it was the stereo which is not linked to the ignition but the battery, but took the fuse out for that and it still died. The internal hazard light flashes now and again when the immobiliser is on (no alarm turned on as also thought that was draining the battery), is this part of the problem I wonder. Having it serviced next week but would like to know what's going on.
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  16. N8
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    N8 Kowalski Details VCDS Map User

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    [Nov 21, 2008]
    Mine went into audi last week, did a drain test, 24hour charge they had it all week, seems to be fine now, so who knows?
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  17. Staz
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    Staz is a retronaut Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Nov 21, 2008]
    I haven't had a look at this thread before but I think a few fault finding tips might help people out for when their battery goes flat repeatedly.

    Quite obviously something is staying on permanantly and killing the battery. Traditionally this would be because someone left the lights or interior light on. Audis have a timer on the interior lights though. Even if left on the on position (at the switch on the roof) they will still switch off after about 5 minutes. Whether the door is opened or closed or the doors locked or not.

    I don't know if there is a similar power cut off for the side and tail lights though.

    Where to check
    One way to test for a perm power draw is by removing fuses one by one. Some vehicles have a few main (large) fuses that come straight from the pos, one or two of which will then go into another fuse box and will be split off from there. I don't know if it's the same on the A3 though.

    If it's the same as this then they are the best fuses to start with, if not then try separating the cables coming straight off the battery and seeing which is drawing power. If this is not possible then you may need to start removing fuses one by one from the fuse boxes.

    If you have access the VCDS then it's best to have a look if there are any faults first of course. But bearing in mind that when the ECU detects a fault it will kill the power source I would guess that this type of fault won't be there.

    How to check

    If you're going to go ahead with the fuse method then the only thing to do is pick a start and end fuse and begin pulling until the draw has gone! It is VERY IMPORTANT that you do not put the fuses back in straight after you have pulled them out. You need to pull them out one by one until the fault goes. Once you have identified the fuse to blame then you can start putting them back in one by one, leaving the problem fuse out. After each 5 you put back in you should check the fault has still gone.

    You should carry this out as above just in case you have more than one fault. Or if one circuit depends on another.

    How to test for a current draw

    This is going to be the most difficult part but if you have read up until now you will see it's the most important.

    To test if there is a current draw from the battery you 'simply' need to test what the current flow is with the ignition off using a multimeter. I say 'simply' because you obviously different multimeters can handle different amounts of current flow. I use a Fluke 25 which has a 10amp fuse. This should be more than adequate for this type of job but it's still not a lot! Basically check the current rating of your multimeter and if it's lower than 5 amps I wouldn't go any further.

    The need to disconnect the pos lead from the battery and put the ammeter in the circuit to measure the current. The car will always draw a small amount of power and that varies from car to car. I don't know how much an A3 draws but I will test it when I get back to work so I know for future reference. It will be a lot less than an amp though. Apparently some cars will draw a lot of power after switch off for a certain amount of time then it'll drop right down. This just makes things more complex!

    You could have any amount of current draw if you have a fault but if it's anywhere near an amp you have definately got a problems and can start with the fuse method.

    It is possible to buy a current testing device that plugs into certain multimeters which can handle very high current. It looks like this:
    [​IMG]

    PM me if you want to know how this works!



    So anyway I have written this in a rush so sorry if it's a bit all over the place. Hope it can help out a bit. The best tip I can give for someone who's battery keeps dying is to disconnect the battery between uses until you get it fixed. Constant discharge and recharge will ruin your battery.
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  18. hannakournikova
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    hannakournikova New Member

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    [Nov 23, 2008]
    small update.

    can get access to the convenience module, etc

    the drivers door sensor seems to be faulty.

    if i open it then it doesnt flag up as being open, BUT if i leave the door loosely closed and push it a bit then the error flags up on the cars computer. weird.
    #17

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