falling to bits but I should get there

[ScottD3]

I've been holding off asking theses questions cause I'm a little paranoid and not looking forward to seeing the answers or the list but here goes.

my 128k 1.9 tdi AFN automatic is getting a bit ill and making some odd noises.

1st fault is the front end, it's knocking, clicking, squeaking and generally shot. I got this bit covered, I've ordered a full set of shocks & springs, myele control arms, front arb bushes. I also ordered new rear axle bushes and new top mounts. I think that's it for suspension bits.

2nd fault is again with the front end but only really happens when going slow and turning. When doing this there is a clicking semi grinding noise. Turning the steering wheel left or right it will feel like it hits a bump stop but if you roll the car the steering wheel will free up and carry on turning, as long as the car is moving.

3rd fault is a new one that I only noticed over the last week. When reversing in to parking bay or slowly, there is a odd rubbing noise. I can't work out which side or where its coming from, I just know its from the back end when reversing slowly. I've fitted new rear wheel bearings when I did the disks and pads about 6 months ago.

4th fault is front end again, there is a on off humming noise when doing over 40. I'm not sure which side but I'm sure its a wheel bearing.

5th fault is basically a coolant smell in side the cab when heat is on. I think its a leaking heater matrix but I'm not loosing any coolant. At the moment I'm going go let this smell go and get worse till I can where its coming from. The is no damp stops, no condensation just smell.

that's its that's my fault. Any thoughts, solutions or ideas are welcome.
selling the car is no an option, I enjoy it and like it to much.

 

[aragorn]

Id do the suspension first, and see if the other oddness goes away.

You may also see something obvious when its in bits causing the jamming etc.

Change both front wheel bearings when its apart. You dont really want to have to dismantle everything again to change the bearings shortly after.

Also check the CV boots.

 

[ScottD3]

Id do the suspension first, and see if the other oddness goes away.

You may also see something obvious when its in bits causing the jamming etc.

Change both front wheel bearings when its apart. You dont really want to have to dismantle everything again to change the bearings shortly after.

Also check the CV boots.

I'll add the bearings to the list.

I'll check the boots they was replaced at the last mot, hope they last longer than a year.

 

[B5NUT]

I've just done most of what you are about to do, It looked like the cv boots had been changed on my car but they had used some generic stretch boot with was unbelievably thin, so changed them for Gkn boots. changing all that lot made a hell of a difference to the car.

 

[ScottD3]

I've just done most of what you are about to do, It looked like the cv boots had been changed on my car but they had used some generic stretch boot with was unbelievably thin, so changed them for Gkn boots. changing all that lot made a hell of a difference to the car.

I can't wait to get it done but I don't think I'm able to do the front wheel bearings cause they need to be pressed in.
I'm currently debating doing the suspension bits and then giving it to the garage to do the bearings or let them do the lot.

 

[B5NUT]

Thankfully I have a press at home so was able to change the bearings. I would just take the uprights & bearing to a garage and get them to do it. Other problem you may encounter is the pinch bolt removal, get the garage to remove it and save yourself the pain.

 

[fARQUARE]

second to doing the bearings while its all apart.

did the same on mine in feb this year - made a big difference, also replaced both boots and tre's too. Basically anything you can while it's apart...

 

[ScottD3]

the car is going for a mot next week, see what it fails on and replace other bits as well I think.

any one done front wheel bearings?
how hard are they?

 

[aragorn]

I did mine on the FWD with a BIG vice, but it was an absolute pig.

I've since done four on the TQS using a 10 tonne hydraulic press at work and its a piece of pee with the right kit.

If you dont have access to a press, then take the uprights off, and take them to a local garage with the bearings. They'll press them in for <20quid.

A little tip, you DONT need to touch the ABS sensors, so leave them alone. If you try to remove them from the upright you'll likely wreck them. Just unplug the wiring up in the wheel arch and leave the sensor where it is!

And buy decent bearings. I had a pair of Febi ones for the TQS, pressed in by a garage, and they died inside 2000miles. I'd recommend SKF, Timken or FAG, but there are probably others that are acceptable, the front bearings i used were Meyle branded, as the SKF ones were mega-dear, and craigs got a meyle bearing on his car thats lasted fine.

 

[ScottD3]

I did mine on the FWD with a BIG vice, but it was an absolute pig.

I've since done four on the TQS using a 10 tonne hydraulic press at work and its a piece of pee with the right kit.

If you dont have access to a press, then take the uprights off, and take them to a local garage with the bearings. They'll press them in for <20quid.

A little tip, you DONT need to touch the ABS sensors, so leave them alone. If you try to remove them from the upright you'll likely wreck them. Just unplug the wiring up in the wheel arch and leave the sensor where it is!

And buy decent bearings. I had a pair of Febi ones for the TQS, pressed in by a garage, and they died inside 2000miles. I'd recommend SKF, Timken or FAG, but there are probably others that are acceptable, the front bearings i used were Meyle branded, as the SKF ones were mega-dear, and craigs got a meyle bearing on his car thats lasted fine.

I'll be taking it to a local garage for the bearings.
Thanks, I'll try and get some good bearings.

 

[aragorn]

Dont take the car, just take the uprights.

If you take the car, they basically need to redo everything you'll be doing anyway to change the arms, and if your going to do that you may as well just have them fit the arms in the first place.

 

[ScottD3]

Dont take the car, just take the uprights.

If you take the car, they basically need to redo everything you'll be doing anyway to change the arms, and if your going to do that you may as well just have them fit the arms in the first place.

Thats what I mean.
I'll give them the uprights and bearings.

I'll make sure there is one local to us first and open on saturdays before I take it all apart.

 

[B5NUT]

one other thing, is the ABS sensors, I've had 2 come out with ease, and another 2 I've had to bash out. You can get non genuine replacments on ebay for around £25.

 

[mixmaster]

one other thing, is the ABS sensors, I've had 2 come out with ease, and another 2 I've had to bash out. You can get non genuine replacments on ebay for around £25.

True but as aragorn mentioned above leave them alone; You don't need to take them out. I just ruined one of mine thinking I had to remove it during a boot change. I didn't and it cost me a new sensor (£20 eBay) and copper cage (£10 dealer)...

 

[B5NUT]

True but if they can be removed then all the better as the plugs & wiring could be damage while they are off the car and being shifted around while the bearing get sorted. It is possible to remove them without damage!

 

[ScottD3]

which ever way you do it, you got a chance of damaging the ABS sensors.

Less chance damaging them by taking the plugs off.

I might be ok, I've had both CV boots replace with in the last 12 months and new front top mounts and top control arms on each side.

If not, I'll buy some new ones.

Whats the rear axle bushes like?

 

[B5NUT]

Bit of a ******, to say the least. I made a tool up using some metal pipe just bigger than the bush & some threaded bar. Spent about 4 hours just doing them.

 

[ScottD3]

Small issue with the car

I got a feeling I ordered facelift rear suspension parts to fit my pre-facelift rear top mounts.
I was told my car has the facelift top mounts so I ordered the suspension they I was told was wrong.
But this is wrong.

When I was doing the shocks and springs, I shared the work out cause I was in a rush.
Me and my old man did the fronts and my mate (who owns the garage) did the rears.
The fronts was fine, no issues.
My mate said there was a issue with the tops mounts but he sorted it out and it should be fine.
Took his word for it, bolted it all back together, lowered the car and stood back to look at my handy work.

it was fine. Not a massive drop which is what I wanted.
Drove it down to kwik fit to get the tracking done and then home.
On the way there was some massive knocking taking place from the back end, took it to kwik fit got the tracking done and back to my dads to find out about this knocking.
We think its the top mounts. bit of a pain, I ran out of time to do any more to it, so I just drove it home.
I'm going to park it up now and order some new facelift rear top mounts and hope that solves the issue.

Never did the CV boots as the ones on there looks fine, no issues.
Never did the front bearings, I ran out of time but will give it to the local garage to do and get him to put on the new CV boots as well.
Never did the rear axle bushes, did not want to attempt them, I'll get the garage to do it the same time they do the CV boots.

There was a bit of play in the front hubs but it seems alot easier to turn the wheel now and it does not lock like it use to, so thats bonus.

I'm off to sort out the rear top mounts.
Thanks for the help and advice lads.

 

[ScottD3]

Sunday morning, on my way to the garage it looked like this.

Got home, tired and in pain, it looked like this.