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Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by S3featesV9, Apr 10, 2012.
Wow, that's hell of a mess :-(
Yeah I believe so. They were tightened to Audi spec. 22 plus a 1/4 turn. Which I think would be well over 55 which they should of been.
Got new bolts coming soon as they will be compared against old ones to see if they were stretched. If not then they would of been under tightened.
Pretty sure it's over torqued though
I'd have guessed at over torqued as I only did mine 2 weeks ago. 22lbft then quarter of a turn would be a LOT!
Yeah well over, be good to find out how much over though.
FJ Paynes have just called to say all the Rods are fine!! PHEW. Just new bearings required. And crank reground again.
Can't wait to have it back AGAIN. The Clio 182 just wasn't good enough as a daily. So have now sold that too my brother already.
Need the S3 in my life. How's your running in? All done now?
I enjoyed my 182 when I owned it but it's nowhere near as fast as the S3.
Mine is fine so far mate (touch wood). I've only done 415 miles and after I saw this thread I became very worried about how I'd bolted up the rods.
I'll drop the oil again this week and put in the good stuff and then start playing with ignition timing in unisettings
with them regrounding the crank AGAIN, will you not need oversized bearing?
He needed thicker bearings the first time round so he'll need super thick ones this time.
fkn joke isnt it
Sure is. He might find that the crank can't be reground again and he'll need a new crank.
to the OP, im amazed you havent given up on the car yet. massive respek!
Giving up just isn't an option. I've gone through the whole of auto trader looking for a car I like. There isn't anything else I'd like. So I'll stick at it with the Audi. Just won't ever be using this garage again.
From what was a new turbo. Has become, crank, bearings, rods, piston rings, oil pump, and a water pump. Head set, valve stem seals.
Pretty much a new engine now. Shame they couldn't assemble it correctly
tbh I am not a fan of reground cranks... I would be looking for a replacement bottom end from another motor at this point...
I'll wait and see what F Paynes say. They think it'll be a replacement needed.
Regrounding cranks is a standard practice. It's just not the suitable for the application. If it was a 1.1 Saxo for example, it would be fine. But on a remapped S3 with a shed load of boost it's not a very good idea.
You might as well have found a large port head too while it was apart then your engine would have been ready for action
That can always be done in the future.
I am currently trying to find a decent clutch set up. Might as well as gearbox is off
Well I'm currently impressed with the one I fitted at Easter:
Awesome - Awesome Heavy Duty Sprung Clutch & Solid Flywheel - 6 speed 1.9 TDI / 1.8T
Glad your looking to keep it pal! Hope everything goes well and you get it back on the roads ASAP
Yeah, it's alway the first thing that springs to mind when it breaks down. Gotta sell up and get something else.
But let's be realistic...the S3 is in a class of its own. Can't get anything better for 4K IMO.
agreed, i always look at other things and find a reason to say no. with the s3, there isnt really. maybe its weight, but meh
That rod looks like its had a roasting... I'm not sure i'd want to reuse it!
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Exactly how I feel. But if the machining place manage to save it then that'll be good as I won't have to wait for a rod to arrive from the USA.
They said it should just require cleaning and polishing.
ok so another update....
crank isnt repairable! so theyve got a full size 2nd hand one in from one of their suppliers. the rod is being worked on now and new bearings have been ordered.
its been diagnosed as an oil issue, and after speaking to two ppl on of which bill. it seems that the over torque on bearing cap bolts wouldnt of caused this. so it looks like a new issue has popped up within the engine and caused a low oil pressure.
been in contact and have a meeting tuesday the 1st with the CAB. to discuss this matter.
As im 100% sure that if a customer (me) pays out for a car to be fixed at a cost of around £2K, and for it to go wrong AGAIN so soon, i shouldnt be liable.
sure, if something was slighty blocked and caused this, it should of been picked up either during the engine strip, or rebuild, or inspection of parts, or even when F J Paynes reground the crank...am i right?
pretty dogged off right now tbh. was so hoping that it would be a straight forward 'yes, the garage is at fault' etc.
its got a brand new oil pump and pickup and rifle drilled rods. so am stuck as to what would of caused this oil issue. surely if something was blocked, the bottom end would of gone way before 1000 miles?!?!
any help, advise, comments, helpful.
as i need to write up a diary of things that have happended with my car, garage, phone calls, new parts fitted, parts reworked etc etc
and also write up information gathered as to what might of caused this to happen.
The oil squirters bent/blocked? it could still be a mechanics error...
That is a good shout. Maybe they bent/snapped and oil squirter when fitting the rods. Not sure whether that would cause oil pressure issues
A squirter being snapped wouldn't cause any oil pressure loss really, it just wouldn't squirt in the right direction.
Yeah that's what Dale the mechanic said. He is on the case tomorrow. Checking them and giving them a blast with air to see if any of them are blocked. He said from a quick look earlier the oil journals look fine but will inspect further tomorrow.
He also said he isn't going to be a ****er about it. If the garage is at fault he said he will openly admit it. Do it a their cost and chuck in a haldex service and free MOT next year. Little do they know the car will never go back to them!
I personally don't think it is, as all four cylinders had signs of excessive bearing wear, just so happened cylinder 4 got the front of it all.
I think the rods were put in the wrong way...so that the groove on the bearing cap wasn't facing inlet side. Would this cause a oil starvation?
Ok so time to update, the car is back together with the new crank and required bearings etc.
Nothing was 'found' to be at fault for causing this issue. So they say anyway. They've been out and done 20 miles and dropped the oil, new oil in and done another 40.
Just called me to say everything is running fine. He did mention its making a weird noise when engine is loaded. His said it sound like the DV is fluttering. I'm sure it's something to do with new b5 tip and the 26psi boost its running.
What should I do, remap? Ad a shim to the yellow spring? I had heard it before it went into the garage. Easy off the gas and it'll stop. Full throttle it makes a kid of chhhf chhhf noise? I'm sure a thread came up about a similar thing, not sure if it's the same though??
But we have agreed that they will do another 50 miles Monday, drop the oil and then I'm all good to collect it!!!
BUZZING ONCE AGAIN.
Bring it over mate
Glad it's all back together and ok. 26psi is a bit much mate, what map is on it currently?
It sounds like surge due to too much boost too soon. Mines doing something similar.
Probably the best advise ever tbh. What would you say the noise is? Flutter or something?
Its on a custom code bud, never had the noise until i fitted the b5 tip, serviced the 007p and fitted the yellow spring. Before it was green and just a forge tip, no surge or flutter, whatever it is.
Custom code doesn't normally do 26psi in my (limited) experience mate...
Unless my gauge is faulty and reading more. It is a CC map though, have the receipt and booklet from previous owner.
Must be due a dyno run then lol ;P
Jesus christ, Tiz the season to suffer from Surge it seems!
People all over the shop popping up with surge issues and too much boost!
And then listen to the bottom end fail again.
Touch wood that actually doesn't happen though.
Its like a massive yawn, see someone get it, then it's your turn.
I'm on a CC map and B5 TIP too. I'm not hitting 26psi though, more like 22-23psi. How old is your N75? I saw 26psi with a knackered N75 and CC map.