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Engine removal advice

Discussion in 'A4/S4 forum(B5 Chassis)' started by B5NUT, Jun 20, 2010.

  1. B5NUT
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    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 20, 2010]
    Need some advice on removing a 1.8 ADR engine.

    So far stripped down the front-end of the car and I'm at the point of wondering if it's worth removing inlet manifold, water pump, PAS pump etc, or would it be easier to do all that once the engine is out?

    Also I'm leaving the gearbox attached to the engine, so i should just have to undo the engine mounts & gear box mounts, gear box linkages, wiring harness, exhaust, & pipes etc.

    Is this fully achievable with just and engine lift & axle stands, and is there any tips to make the job easier?
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  3. Broken Byzan
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    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 20, 2010]
    is the engine to go back in?
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  4. B5NUT
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    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 20, 2010]
    Yes, the problem is the gaskets on the engine all need replacing, it's going to be stripped down gaskets/seals replaced and then put back in. Was also thinking about changing the oil in the gearbox (5speed manual)
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  5. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 21, 2010]
    I'd leave it in.

    At least then its firmly attached to the car, rather than rolling around on the floor?
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  6. jcb
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    jcb Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 22, 2010]
    likewise, pulling the box and engine can seem easier but the linkages to the box are a pain. and you may end up with sticky shifts if you are not careful lining it all back up again.

    what gaskets are you changing? Only ones I can think of that would be (slightly) easier with the engine out is the sump or essential would be the rear main seal
    Head, cam cover, front main, sump, waterpump etc etc can all be done with engine in.

    I haven't pulled that many engines but the only advice I can offer is that you do as much work as possible while it is out, it is not an enjoyable task and you don't want to be pulling it for a new clutch in 10k miles for the sake of the cost of an new unit now.
    Coolant, box oil, damn good clean and degrease to show up any oil/coolant leaks when you refit

    other than that, keep your nuts in a bag.......labelled if possible.
    I also like to put the odd label on any confusing plugs pipes and connectors for the swift refit rather than trying to figure out which one of two pipes will reach the right outlet to the heater matrix connections! or wondering why you engine is misfiring like a b1tch because you are a twat and put the HT leads on in the wrong order! (yeah that was me!)
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  7. B5NUT
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    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 22, 2010]
    After removing the gearbox I was going to put it on an engine stand, so I can sit and work on the engine. I also want to get into the engine bay and clean it.

    Anyone know the weight of a 1.8 block? <400KG?
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  8. B5NUT
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    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 22, 2010]
    Has anyone ever changed the oil in the gearbox, I was told it's a sealed for life box just wondered if this true?
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  9. jcb
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    jcb Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 22, 2010]
    well as the hernia I am currently supporting will testify a full long block (head/block/flywheel and clutch and no ancillaries) is fecking heavy.
    I lifted it but things popped and creaked in my joints that I didn't even know existed. don't do it. I am guessing it was well over 200kg closer to 300kg
    Wheel it out on a trolley jack if you must

    My gearbox oil was changed last time the clutch was done, it is servicable.
    You can still get into the engine bay with the bell housing in situ, just cover it with a tarp and get busy with the degreaser.
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  10. B5NUT
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    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 22, 2010]
    I've got an engine lift so that's sorted, I'm not going to pop a B and try and lift the engine myself. One of the reasons for removing the engine is my back is not in the best of condition, and bending over the engine does not help. I just need to find an engine stand that will take the weight of the engine, machine mart do one for just over £50, but can only take 340Kg of weight.
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  11. jcb
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    jcb Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 22, 2010]
    teh cheapest machine mart one is fine, has a T shaped base rather than a C shaped base.
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  12. B5NUT
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    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 23, 2010]
    Well so far so good, I'm going to need a **** load of gaskets, nuts & bolts...

    [​IMG]
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  13. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 23, 2010]
    Its nowhere near 300kg lol.

    My V8 is 200, i'd recon on somewhere around 170 for a fully dressed 1.8T

    Hell the chassis for my landrover is only 180kg!

    As for the tranny oil, i changed it on the old car in an attempt to stop a whine it had. It didnt stop the whine, but didnt do it any harm either.
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  14. jcb
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    jcb Active Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 25, 2010]
    sorry...pounds!
    I was measuring in fat 200lb bloke weight, I reckoned it was about 1.5-2 of me!
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  15. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 25, 2010]
    aye thats more like it.

    I've had a Vauxhall XE motor on a scale, and it weighed 400lb with the gearbox. Gearbox on its own was about 80lb.

    AEB will be around the same, as its dimensionally pretty similar. Maybe a touch more if you add in the turbo.
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  16. B5NUT
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    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 25, 2010]
    Got a quick question about the calipers.

    So it's a 1996 A4 1.8 ADR, with the original cast front calipers. They have never been changed and done 230K and the seals are still the original. The question is should I look to replace these, with the Alloy version (from a breakers)?

    So two options.

    1. Clean up old calipers, replace seals and paint calipers
    2. Buy the later alloy calipers for a breakers, clean up and replace seals

    I'm not bothered about upgrading the calipers, I want to keep the car standard.
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  17. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Jun 26, 2010]
    The front calipers are all steel, even on B6/B7 models. Only the rears changed to alloy on later cars.

    If they're still working i'd be leaving them be.
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