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Engine rebuild options???

Discussion in 'A4/S4 forum(B5 Chassis)' started by dappadan786, Sep 14, 2008.

  1. dappadan786
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    dappadan786 Member

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    looks like i maybe going down this road, on friday changed the coilpacks and ignition switch car drove perfect for half an hour and all of sudden misfiring and juddering bigtime! i had to drive the car home and i think thats whats caused more damage! i tried new NGK plat plugs to elimiate the old DEnso iridiums but the car wouldnt even start with either plugs!

    with the symptoms the cars showing ill be doing a compression check to see if any of the rods or piston are shot. if they are its definetely going to be a full rebuild but a very slow one! im exploring all possibilities at this stage and id like to know what options are available with the 1.8T AEB block.

    A BIG THANK YOU TO YOU MARK for all your help on Saturday i owe you one mate.
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  2. jcb
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    jcb Active Member

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    i would exhaust all ignition and timing problems as it sounds more likely.
    you would be losing power and drinking oil if you rings were shot.
    if your rods were bent you would probably have a lot more issues including loss of power and potential bearing issues.

    don;t rebuild the engine in the car without having a look at a drop in alternative, either and OEM stock engien, can be as little as £700

    or get one that has had a timing belt snap and just use the short engine (block without head) chances are the pistons will be marked from the valve contact but will polish out no problem.

    lot sof options , but you need to know what your problems are first
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  3. docurley
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    docurley Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    I would try and diagnose why you started misfiring so I would check and see if you are getting a spark as it may be that the engine is fine but what ever was the first problem has completely failed now hence it won’t start.

    Compression test is a good idea all the same.
    #3
  4. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator

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    are you getting sparks on all four pots? It could be the ignition amplifier... I'd try removing all four spark plugs and the fuel pump fuse/relay (to stop you filling the cylinders with fuel while your testing things) and sticking a plug in each coil in turn to ensure its sparking while your cranking the engine over.

    i also recon a rebuild is premature, sounds far more like an electronic issue than mechanical with your description
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  5. Broken Byzan
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    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    he has sparks on all cylinders and as soon as the pulgs are cleaned and re inserted they are getting oiled up straight away. The Valve cover gasket is said to be ok so no oil got in there and the original plugs that the car HAD been running on were black and sooty.

    I have spent quite a bit of time on the phone with Dan trying to help him and the compression tester is being sent up to eliminate mechanical as on the phone its difficullt.

    I may pop and visit when i have a few quid spare for fuel and we can play swapsies to eliminate components as i would like to see this beast running
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  6. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator

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    Its the fact that it ran just fine for half an hour then started acting up. Barring something like a timing belt jump/failure, i cant see how something mechanical could go so quickly like that. Rings would take many miles to fail enough to stop the engine running properly...

    Just because it was sparking ok doesnt mean it still is....

    Ignition amps when faulty can get worse with heat, which might explain why it would run perfectly fine until it gets hot and then craps out...

    Is your ECU logging any fault codes?

    I would get some standard BKR6E plugs and fit those, ensuring they are gapped correctly. No real reason to spend money on the platinum ones imo
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  7. docurley
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    docurley Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Agreed
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  8. Broken Byzan
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    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    He has just fitted 4 x coil packs and a brand new ICM and she still wont go. What worries me is the plugs oiling up when just cranking the engine over and the fact it was driven when missing badly( admittedly he had to drive it to get home)
    The engine still wont go with the old parts on, but still sparks with them fitted which for the moment eliminates wiring. All the sensors are new, Crank, temp sender, etc.

    Again its hard without being there to help properly,but like i say its the oil that worries me, and the compression test is only a precaution to rule it out. Anyone more local to Dan that can call by and lend a diagnosing hand?

    AAARRRGGG the internet is hard !!!!:think:
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  9. jcb
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    jcb Active Member

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    i had an old nova (alright i know!) that would run fine for a few hundred miles then would drop a cylinder. oil on plugs due to shitty rings and valve stem seals.
    clean the plug it would run just fine.

    i just kept whipping the plug out every now and then!
    #9
  10. dappadan786
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    dappadan786 Member

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    Thanks for the advice lads, mark i wouldve drove up to you but the car wont even start!

    could this problem be caused due to faulty CAT? i was when you drive the car when its misfiring under boost it caused unburnt fuel to get in to the CAT and cause damage?

    at the moment VAGCOM is USELESS no error codes! which also makes me curious about the ECU and that it could be faulty?

    hope the engine passed the compression test as this is really starting to get to me now.

    new parts fitted:
    4 new coil packs
    new ICM
    new plugs gapped at 0.028
    new temperature sensor
    new temp sender
    new cranckcase/speed sensor
    new knock sensors
    #10
  11. Broken Byzan
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    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Compression tester and MAF to try en route dude.
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  12. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator

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    i guess if the cat internals had seriously melted it could strangle the engine enough to stop it running,

    Loosening the bolts on the cat to turbo flange and seperating them a little would probably be enough to test that out

    Assuming the motor is sparking and injecting fuel, and has compression then it should run assuming the air is getting in and out successfully!
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  13. docurley
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    docurley Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    But would not the CAT be flamming red when he poped the bonnet after getting back home and this would not account for the oil!
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  14. Siena
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    Siena Active Member

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    I'd help, if there was a way of getting the car down to mine.
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  15. dappadan786
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    dappadan786 Member

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    missed out on the delivery today will be in my hands tomorrow! cant wait to do the compression test!

    works busy so i might not get to loosen the CAT and see how that work im going to have to save most of the work til the weekends now.

    the car was giving off some serious heat near the CAT and turbo area more than normal! i think the CAT is fried. time will tell, will keep u all posted on how it goes.
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  16. dappadan786
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    dappadan786 Member

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    just a quick update, ive found a local VAG specialist who will tow the car away tomorrow and take a look at it. will let you know how it goes, in a way im relieved some else is doing it, cars just gone bad to worse and not having proper time to sort it out just made it more frustrating. fingers crossed itll be back soon without a hefty bill!

    might even comeback a 1.9T.............






    I wish!
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  17. andybnwc
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    andybnwc Member

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    When cranking can you feel pressure at back of exhaust , i had the same prob with a golf turned out the turbo wheel had broken stuck and no pressure was coming through the exhaust system ,when it was unbolted i could see why
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