Dual Mass Flywheel Help - Under warranty

[sanctimon]

Hello all,

I was wondering if you could give me a tip or two on my situation.

I've got the late 2006 Sportback A3, 1.9 TDi (105BHP). I bought the car when it was 2 years old and immediately I noticed that when on idle, the engine seems to be slightly vibrating. The rpm needle does not show anything.

About two months ago, I decided to have its ECU remapped to get some extra power and better fuel consumption rates. Within three days after the remap, the car vibrated and made a loud noise when accelerating from low rpms. I took it to the dealer for a test drive and they told me it needed a new flywheel & clutch.

They gave me an appointment further down the line, as it is a 2-day job. In the meantime, I had the original ECU files replaced, as there were more things going wrong with the vehicle (loads of exhaust fumes, high fuel consumption, etc).

Now that I took it to the dealer with the ECU in its original state, they told me that I just needed an ECU upgrade (which they performed, allegedly to fix a slight judder issue) and let me go. Because the extra power/strain is gone, the flywheel cannot replicate the problem when test-driving on a level. However, the vibration when the engine is on idle is still there, although it still is relatively imperceptible, unless you drive the car on a daily basis.

I know for a fact that my flywheel is going, but it has not reached that point yet that under the engine's current power it will display any significant symptoms for the dealer to take me seriously and perform the repair. Any suggestions as to what I could do during a test-drive that would demonstrate the flywheel to be definitely on its way out?

Thanks!

 

[PaulAr]

Hello all,

I was wondering if you could give me a tip or two on my situation.

I've got the late 2006 Sportback A3, 1.9 TDi (105BHP). I bought the car when it was 2 years old and immediately I noticed that when on idle, the engine seems to be slightly vibrating. The rpm needle does not show anything.

About two months ago, I decided to have its ECU remapped to get some extra power and better fuel consumption rates. Within three days after the remap, the car vibrated and made a loud noise when accelerating from low rpms. I took it to the dealer for a test drive and they told me it needed a new flywheel & clutch.

They gave me an appointment further down the line, as it is a 2-day job. In the meantime, I had the original ECU files replaced, as there were more things going wrong with the vehicle (loads of exhaust fumes, high fuel consumption, etc).

Now that I took it to the dealer with the ECU in its original state, they told me that I just needed an ECU upgrade (which they performed, allegedly to fix a slight judder issue) and let me go. Because the extra power/strain is gone, the flywheel cannot replicate the problem when test-driving on a level. However, the vibration when the engine is on idle is still there, although it still is relatively imperceptible, unless you drive the car on a daily basis.

I know for a fact that my flywheel is going, but it has not reached that point yet that under the engine's current power it will display any significant symptoms for the dealer to take me seriously and perform the repair. Any suggestions as to what I could do during a test-drive that would demonstrate the flywheel to be definitely on its way out?

Thanks!

Had exactly the same problem with a previous MK5 Golf.

Clutch slipped with the REVO software in, didnt without.

As the clutch is NOT covered under warranty after 6 months, I took the plunge and had the gearbox taken out by a private garage with the intention of replacing the clutch at my own cost.

Once stripped down it was clear the DMF was shagged and not the clutch.
The cost for stripown cost £80 labour then £50 to have the car (and a bootful of gearbox and bits) recovered to the local VW dealer.

VW assessed the partly dismantled car and established the DMF was at fault, which is covered under warranty. They then replaced the DMF AND clutch (as there were signs of damage from the DMF failure) without any fuss at all.

Having had this dilemna myself, I reckon your options are:

1- Do what I did.

2- Take the car in with the map installed and replicate the problem. Bear in mind it wont be obvious to the Tech thats its been mapped (we give them more credit than they deserve), but neither will they care.
Just make sure the stock map is back on when you take it in for the work, just in case.

3- Get AUDI to strip the gearbox down and agree to pay IF they find nothing and you imagined the whole thing. Which wont be the case and the whole lot should be covered under warranty.



Software upgrade? For a transmission failure? Why would the dealer expect anyone to believe that?

Wonder if VAGCom can fix a flat tyre?


Hope this helps mate and Good luck.:icon_thumright:

Cheers
Paul

 

[PiloTT]

My TT DM Flywheel was NOT covered by warrenty as they insisted it was "wear and tear!" It was a £800 job.

 

[sanctimon]

Thanks for your comments, guys.

I went back today and told them (truthfully) that the engine still vibrates/judders slightly when on idle, when warmed up.

Also, there is still an intermittent small judder at low revs when shifting to a higher gear, particularly when trying to go up a hill, or on a level, when trying to accelerate hard.

I think their ECU update yesterday took the kick out of accelerating, which, in turn, removed pressure off the Dual-Mass-Flywheel. This did do away with the symptoms, but not completely. Of course, to see even a little judder, you have to drive for some time. They've booked me back in for three days and a test drive.

The cost for stripping the car down and inspecting the flywheel will be £330, if I have to pay for it myself.

Darn...

 

[COLDSTEEL]

Just had my car in with a local garage (I could not afford Audi as they were double the price quoted by everyone else). Turns out the flywheel had damaged the clutch so both need replacing.

Our car is an 2005 A3 Sportback 2.0tdi 65K mostly motorway driving with small amount of town driving during the week. The car is also stock, no mods other than a couple of kids seats in the back.

To say the least I am utterly embarrased as this car is meant to last forever. Instead I find myself 4 years later spend £1000. Most of that was labour to replace the flywheel and clutch kit. Audi quoted £1400 just to replace the clutch. I wil not be happy with the view that the car is powerful and is wear an tear, that is an excuse for poor build quality.

I will be keeping all the damaged parts as I would like to bring this to Audi's attention that there seems to be a common thread of the flywheel breaking and I'm not prepared to pay for Audi's poor engineering. I am hoping this will be the last outlay for this money black hole.

How do Audi expect people to outlay twice as much as local mechanics when their customer Service can occasionaly be only slightly better than McDonalds?

 

[COLDSTEEL]

Got the car back from the Garage. Spent more money than I wanted. The car is still making the same noise even though the flywheel and clutch have been changed. I even have the old set. The bit they didn't give me was the release bearing.

My symptoms are.

Start car. Noise not evident straight away, though one slight rise of the revs to 1k starts the noise.

If i disengage the clutch (Foot pressed to the floor) the noise cannot be heard from inside or outside. Raise revs as before till the turbo no noise heard.

Engage the clutch (bring foot off the clutch) noise can be heard inside and out. If step on gas to 1500K till the turbo starts, the noise gets louder.

The noise sounds like an intermittent quick ticking or something going round in a tombola and is located approximately in the same area as the flywheel and clutch on an Audi A3 2.0 TDI 2005 5dr.

I'm really looking for anybody who has had this experience before who may be able to assist me in determining what it is. The car is going back to the garage on Saturday.

Do the release bearings come as part of the clutch kit or are my garage telling porkies?

 

[brassic_lint]

Coldsteel, my car is making almost the same nosie, but it has only just started and only makes it when the engine & weather are hot. I.e. drive down to the shops on a hot day - no problem. Drive around the New Forest for 2 hrs in 25C+ and it exhibited exactly the same symptoms as you describe. Has done it a few times since after longish drives ona hot day too.

Car is going to go into Audi (it's still under warranty) as soon as I get chance, will probably be next week as the wife finishes work for Maternity leave today so has plenty of time on her hands!!

 

[COLDSTEEL]

Good luck with the new arrival. I am kind of wondering if I shoul =d have taken it to Audi in the first place and paid the £400 premium. Hopefully will get sorted tomorrow.