Jan 13, 2009
how do they come off?
are there any hidden bolts?
Open the door wide and you will see 2 little screws on the window frame on the extreme corners. Then undo the single screw by facing rewards inside the door pull handle, remove the lower section of the door handle opening ,this will reveal 2 more screws, whisk them out and the card will slide up off its mounts. Reach in to release the clip for the crome inside door handle and release the cable, all the wiring plugs in at a centeral point too. 5 mins work tops
how do i take the door handle wire off the door card?
i've managed to disconnect all the elec wiring but the only thing i can't take off is the door handle wire. don't want to use brute force as i don't want to break anything.
You prise it out of the clip holding the white sleeve then just unhook the wire.
will try at lunch. cheers.
all done. now i can replace my door speakers.
just had to remove the silver clip that was holding the cable in place and the rest was history.
was surprised to see that the speakers were only 10cm (4"). no wonder the sound is so wack.
now i need to see if i can find some decent speakers.
seen some kenwood and pioneer ones on the net.
which are better? i have a pioneer dvd flipout head unit so would pioneer speakers go better with that?
be very careful in what you buy to replace them
I had a very nice set of infinities to fit, but because the speaker is bolted to the back of the door card, rather than going thru from the front, the foam/rubber suspension around the speaker cone was jammed against the housing, meaning the stock speakers sounded a LOT better, as the cone couldnt move properly.
I ended up just refitting the stock ones, and with the addition of a subwoofer, i cannot fault the sounds at all.
Yes, the fitting is just as important as the speakers you fit, probably more so. Bear in mind anything you fit will NOT provide any level of bass or even mid bass as the flimsy door card loosely clipped to the door puts paid to that. So if you're after more bass then you need to go down the sub route, even just a small one, or custom door builds. New components up front will only improve the quality of mid to high range, and steer clear of the plastic adapter rings as these are generally hopeless, MDF rings are much better but as Aragorn says you need to ensure there is clearance for the cone to move, so super slim units are needed (50mm max depth).
I brought some pioneer ones and they seem to be the wrong size. so looks like i'm returning them tonight.
only reason i'm replacing is my passenger side seems to crackle a lot. i'll open it and see if the speaker is damaged or it's just a loose connection.
also do i need a ISO connector for the rear speakers? currently i'm only running with front speakers. is there a special connector required for the rear speakers?
afaik the rear speakers are externally amplified in the standard setup.
If i was you, i'd run new wires from the head units rear speaker outs, directly to the rear speakers, bypassing audis rubbish amplifier.
ok my next question to you is.
how do i get the rear speakers out?
arent they on the rear shelf?
I've never looked too closely at the speakers on a saloon, our avants rears are in the doors.
On the saloon you need to fold down the rear seats (if you have folding seats) and pop up the rear deck cover. It's held to the deck by simple pop fasteners. Then slide it towards the front of the car remembering to disconnect the cyclops brake light first.
The rears are 6.5" coxials and need adapter rings if fitting aftermarket units (as do all Audi speakers). If you're just rewiring them then you don't need to remove anything, you can access the wiring from the underneath in the boot.
Yes mine are on the rear shelf.
the problem i face is that my rear seats don't fold. (stupid audi)
i'll have another look at popping the black clips at lunch. is there anything else i need to look out for? some hidden clips/screws?
i might just re-wire the rear speakers. as that seems to be the easiest and best option.
i also want to install a sub but cant find an entry for my red wire (from battery to amp) how have you guys done this?
seat out job I am afraid. if your seats don't fold you won;t get the parcel shelf out in one peice.
seats backs are held in from the boot side IIRC, should be relatively simple to loosen them and push them forward whilst you pop up the shelf
i brought my power lead for the amp thru the ECU box. Theres a little nipple just above the main loom entry point, i cut this to the right size and fed the wire thru there, then down the side of the car under the plastic trim, and onto the amp which i bolted to the back of the rear seats.
I've tried previously to get the rear seats out but they don't want to budge.
last time i tried i removed the head rests and un-did the two bolts at the bottom and tried to lift the seat out but nothing!
they are held in by those hook things and they don't want to move!
what am i doing wrong?
aragorn - is there no other way of bringing the wire in?
i don't want to be messing with the ECU box TBH!
with my Vdubs i've just drilled a little whole from the engine bay into the passenger footwell and that's done the job but it's not the same with audi.
so instead of using a nice rubber grommet thats already provided for you in the ECU Box, you'd rather drill a hole thru the car body?!
ECU box is the safest route inside the car.
You're not messing with the ECU, the ECU is the metal box inside the plastic housing. All you're doing is routing the cable through the plastic housing using the convenient spare grommet already there. This is where pretty much all the electrical cables are routed and it drops down straight into the drivers footwell so is perfect for the running additional power. Drilling through the bulkhead is not recommended.
lol that was on vdubz.
is the ecu box on the drivers side?
if so i'll have a look at this option and hopefully sort it out over the weekend.
hmmmm. maybe i shouldn't have drilled through the vdubz. oh well. hope the new driver doesn't take it through high waters.
i'll try the ECU this time.
but my first mission is to get that back shelf off or see if i can so the wiring to the rear speakers.
thanks guys. i'll let you know if i mess anything up lol
If you're just rewiring them to the HU you don't need to remove them!
will try and rewire tonight it's the weather is good.
To be honest I'm not all that unhappy about the standard audio set setup in mine, yeah, maybe it's a bit bass-light but it's a damn sight better than a lot of OEM audio I've heard, and I've heard a lot....
My only question is why are my two rear speakers so different looking? One has a big square attachment on the magnet and the other doesn't. They're Nokia speakers, that big company so famous for its hi-fi...
i think the big square thingy is suppose to be an amp or something. but i'm sure someone will correct me soon.
That's the amp? Eurgh! Not sure I want that.... Still, it works at the moment.
Out of curiosity, does anyone know what the outputs are on the back of a concert head unit? Are the separately amped rear speakers fed at line level or speaker level? If I find that it's line level it should be dead easy to wire in a beefier amp using the exsisting wiring.
the amp is fed line level from the little extra block on the back of the head unit.
Concert only amplifies the front channels itself, or none in a bose setup.
Great, so I can find a decent two channel amp to run the backs, or possibly a four channel with two bridged to run a sub, if I suddenly felt like it. Should see me through until the head unit goes pop or suffers a volume control meltdown....
In the event of binning the Concert, will any aftermarket units control my Audi CD Changer or would that be landfill as well? I like plain looking units like Beckers.
No, the Audi CD changer will only work with the Audi HU, just put it on ebay.
The Beckers are excellent and with MP3 support you really wouldn't want an old school "CD only" changer anyway.
to sum up my 'set up' front door speakers changed them used adapter rings to put the larger 13cm speakers result: sounded a lot worse than OE speakers, so put back the original ones back
rear shelf speakers i did not even bother upgrading these as this has a square base on the speakers, which fits into a square hole.
so ripped them out.
I opted for speakers in the rear door cards basically i changed the door cards with grilles.
Then a sub in the back.
as ras says, i tried some 13cm's in the doors and they sounded pish so reverted to the stock speakers all round (avant, so the the rears are in the doors not the shelf) and added a 12" pioneer in a fibreglass enclosure.
I find that with the sub, it takes the bass load off the OE speakers, which means they dont struggle as much. It can be wound up to silly volumes without distorting and theres just the right mix of midrange, treble and bass
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