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Don't ignore the signs (control arm content)...

mixmaster Jun 23, 2012

  1. mixmaster

    mixmaster Member

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    I'm Lucky. I was going slow. It wasn't noisy consistently and although I had a vibration under braking hard I was convinced it was the opposite side...

    So my lower rear control arm now looks like this:

    [​IMG]


    Uploaded with ImageShack.us


    [​IMG]


    Uploaded with ImageShack.us



    Looks like the 20 hairpin commute has finally taken its toll.
     
  2. adidasandy

    adidasandy Member

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    Ouch, lucky lad.
     
  3. Bradderz_1988

    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    Yep same happened on my brothers last month wot a twat it completely siezed then snapped the control arm and ended up under the tyre so had to jack the car and get it in the workshop doing a 20 point turn to get it lined up on the ramp lol, i need to order a meyle kit for mine too as getting some vibration at high speeds when braking you may have just depleted my funds some more with that image lol
     
  4. mixmaster

    mixmaster Member

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    Is this an easy repair on a trolley jack?

    I'm debating the kit (they are only £300 from Germany ATM) but need to get it back rolling again quickly.
     
  5. Bradderz_1988

    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    Id say you could do it on a trolley jack with a axle stand to support the weight as you will/may be fighting with the bolts/nuts so a axle stand will be best but yeah its pretty straight forward you will have to drop the subframe a tad to get the rear bolt out other than that that just one nut and a nut and bolt.
     
  6. PAULF

    PAULF Active Member VCDS Map User

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  7. adidasandy

    adidasandy Member

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    I've just done mine last week on the floor with axle stands no worries.
     
  8. gedi

    gedi Member

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    I did complete front suspension change on mine with jacks ant axle stands and its quite easy jobs just u need to loosen subrame bolst to remove the back arm bolts.the only thing when tightening arm bolts at the rubber part u have to make sure that the arms are leveled as if the front of the car is on the road cause otherwise u gona damage the bushings in the susp arm
     
  9. mixmaster

    mixmaster Member

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    Thanks for the replies. May have to get this one towed much to my frustration and pay and overpriced French garage...

    Would anyone be so kind to look up the OE part number? Thanks

    (It's the Drivers side lower rear arm)
     
  10. gedi

    gedi Member

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    4D0407694AC thats one of the part numbers

     
  11. adidasandy

    adidasandy Member

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    Is it your drivers side or ours? as I notice your in france.
     
  12. mixmaster

    mixmaster Member

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    Sorry it's a UK car. So drivers (Right Hand Drive) lower rear arm.
     
  13. mixmaster

    mixmaster Member

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    I think I going to attempt to replace the arm (from a full kit) in situ for now so I can get the car home to sort the rest.

    One problem, apparently is moving it as it's a Quattro so will need a flatbed.

    Can anyone advise on the lowering the subframe part? I have read a few articles but unsure of where to support the car. Some articles also advise not using the same subframe bolts again?

    Thanks
     
  14. Sulli79

    Sulli79 Active Member

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    How far does it need to be moved, you can do it as long as it has all 4 wheels on the floor, but there is a recomended distance and speed which I cant remember!
     
  15. HEKTOR

    HEKTOR Member

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    Max distance it can be towed is 30 miles/50 kilometers
    Max speed it can be towed is 30mph/50kph
     
  16. aragorn

    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    If all four wheels are on the ground (ie towing with a rope, or bar) you can tow it as far as you like and as fast as you like. As far as the gearbox is concerned thats no different to being driven along the road.

    The 30miles/30mph limit is for towing with one axle lifted, such as on a towing dolly, or lifted onto the back of an AA van or similar.


    To get the bolt out, you only have to unbolt that one corner of the subframe. Easiest thing to do is jack the car and put the axle stand on the sill next to the jacking point. That gives you plenty of room to drop the subframe bolt and the triangular plate out.

    Once removed, you'll need to lever the subframe down a bit, a long piece of wood works best for this, as it minimises damage to the metalwork.

    When reassembling, fit the bolt the other way round, this ensures its easy to get at in future!
     
  17. mixmaster

    mixmaster Member

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    Thanks everyone.

    Just a heads up that a broken lower rear makes it pretty hard to tow either way as the wheel can hit the bodywork; In this case the wonderful ADAC took it on a flatbed to a local independent.

    One reason for this is I can have everything checked to see if it needs a kit as the tops are only a year old. I would hate to think what would have happened at 60mph+ if it went.

    Now I just need to see what they want to sting me for it...
     
  18. mixmaster

    mixmaster Member

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    Does anyone know if the Febi-Bilstein kits come with solid tie-rods like the Meyle HD kit? With the exchange rate at the moment the kit works out just over £280!

    Febi-Bilstein Kit or the Meyle HD kit
     
  19. dubster67

    dubster67 Member

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    I got the Meyle HD kit off tierod69 on Ebay.co.uk for £338.00. Don't have the link, but just type in Audi and Meyle. BTW the Meyle HD kit has a 4 year guarantee. Worth it IMO.
     
  20. mixmaster

    mixmaster Member

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    Just to say I have had a full 'Moog' kit fitted and Geometry corrected on all 4 corners. Seems to be great.

    Watch this space to how long it all lasts!
     

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