DIY Boost Leak Tester, Few Questions.....

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Following on from my other thread i have decided to make my own boost leak tester like this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-S4-RS4-TURBO-BOOST-LEAK-INTAKE-PRESSURE-TESTER-/160964535126?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item257a3be356&clk_rvr_id=451324834733&afsrc=1


But I've got a few questions that I'm finding mixed answers for when googleing.


1. Where do you attach the tester and where do you block off?

I've read that you can either take the air filter off and put the tester in its place. but this can blow seals on the turbo. or you block off where the filter goes and fit the tester to where the n75 goes but I'm guessing that would also blow the seals.

The other method I've read is to use the hose that's fitted to the throttle body?


2. What diameter hoses will i need for the tester and the budge ?


3. What PSI should i pressurise it to ?



Thanks guys ;)
 
I've heard about issues with it blowing seals before. But the turbo only gives ~10psi boost anyway so I'd guess 10psi is a fair/safe pressure to test at
 
I've heard about issues with it blowing seals before. But the turbo only gives ~10psi boost anyway so I'd guess 10psi is a fair/safe pressure to test at




Thanks for the reply (i thought i would be more....lol)



Do you know where they fit the tester in when you take the car to be smoke tested as it would be better if i could lower the risk of blowing seals.
 
take Tuffty's advice

Normally use a 'pressure' test between the top hoses on the S3 so the one coming off the charge pipe and the throttle body... this can be used to test how secure the system is across the SMIC's or FMIC if you have one and normally tested to pressures just over 1.5bar... the kit I use is something Bill made consisting of a bung with a airline fitting and another bung to seal the other end...

Trickier to do on K03 turbo'd cars as the pipework is different and more awkward to do but the smoke test kit Bill has finds pretty much any leak tbh...

You can't use a high pressure tester on the complete inlet system though (smoke tester runs to around 0.5psi) as you can blow seals and stuff plus its difficult to keep the pressure up anyway as by design it will always leak making it trickier to track down an actual leak...

<tuffty/>
 
Thanks mate.


What thread did you get that quote from?


I know I'm a bit thick but is he saying you should do it like this (I'm better with visuals....lol):


img0798xt.jpg
 
You're right about where the tester goes, but you don't need to cap off the throttle body. You need to disconnect and cap off the charge pipe coming off the turbo. The ideas that you've sealed off all the pipework between the inlet manifold and the turbo, so you can test it without the pressure damaging the turbo, and without pressure leaking through the engine.
 
You're right about where the tester goes, but you don't need to cap off the throttle body. You need to disconnect and cap off the charge pipe coming off the turbo. The ideas that you've sealed off all the pipework between the inlet manifold and the turbo, so you can test it without the pressure damaging the turbo, and without pressure leaking through the engine.


Thanks

Isn't the charge pipe the metal one at the back of the engine bay ?


I've not read anything about removing it in any guides.
 
On a k03/k03s car it's the one coming vertically upwards from the turbo that leads to the intercooler. (Not the one that leaves the turbo horizontally, then turns upwards.)
 
On a k03/k03s car it's the one coming vertically upwards from the turbo that leads to the intercooler. (Not the one that leaves the turbo horizontally, then turns upwards.)


You've lost me again mate :(


Would i need to disconnect it from underneath the car?

I've read something about removing the hockey puck.


I've also just come across this tester that says the use it in the TIP.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TURBO-BOOST-LEAK-TESTER-AUDI-A3-A4-1-8T-K03-K04-INSTALLS-AFTER-MAF-/140910699323
 
Would any of these methods work:


98346042.jpg



75212660.jpg
 
if your trying to follow the guide in the link you posted then your sticking the tester the wrong side of the MAF in your 1st picture. And then cap off the TIP connection that goes to your oil catch can.


Looking at your pictures.... is it just me or have you had to tape together bits of hose for the oil catch tank system? and your looking for a boost leaks?
 
if your trying to follow the guide in the link you posted then your sticking the tester the wrong side of the MAF in your 1st picture. And then cap off the TIP connection that goes to your oil catch can.


Looking at your pictures.... is it just me or have you had to tape together bits of hose for the oil catch tank system? and your looking for a boost leaks?




Its really a mixture of a few guides I've been reading....lol

So in the first pic, if i was the attach the tester to the hose rather than the maf itself then i would be good to go?


For some reason i cant get this to gel in my head :(



And no mate i haven't taped up the hoses.....lol


When i first fitted the catch can i was worried that the engine cover would rub and cut the hose so i used some self amalgamating tape and taped a plate to the hose. I have now modified the cover but not removed the plate ;)
 
As I have mentioned in posts before... you can't really use high pressure testers before the turbo so connecting it up to the MAF is not going to help you...

Can't you find a garage that has a smoke tester?

What are you trying to test for exactly as smoke tests and high pressure tests do different things really

<tuffty/>
 
As I have mentioned in posts before... you can't really use high pressure testers before the turbo so connecting it up to the MAF is not going to help you...

Can't you find a garage that has a smoke tester?

What are you trying to test for exactly as smoke tests and high pressure tests do different things really

<tuffty/>



Mate I've tried everywhere but no one does it or know what I'm even talking about....

I tell a lie, i found one place that was still far away from me and they said it will cost me £100, more if they cant find the leak straight away.



I'm trying to find out what's bringing up this code:



17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve (check D.V.!)
P1297 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent


http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/180508-car-almost-dies.html


I thought that testing it like i showed in the last picture would test for most leaks?
 
I forgot to say....


I also contacted AMD today to see if they did smoke testing and he said that they only do pressure testing but it finds most leaks :think:
 
17705 is a software issue on mapped cars... I normally code this out as its a known bug...

<tuffty/>
 
17705 is a software issue on mapped cars... I normally code this out as its a known bug...

<tuffty/>


In my last thread:

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/180508-car-almost-dies.html



You said:

If a pipe popped off then no... thats normally fairly permanent.. if a pipe had split then it could have been adapted out by the ECU... smoke test next... the 17705 may be the result of these.... its a leak based code... its also a software bug and can pop up because of that...

So i thought that because of my other issues that it must be a leak ?


And my car has been remapped for a while now and the code has only just started to show up.
 
Last edited:
In my last thread:

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/180508-car-almost-dies.html



You said:



So i thought that because of my other issues that it must be a leak ?


And my car has been remapped for a while now and the code has only just started to show up.

Smoke test or tbh just visually check all the pipes under and around the inlet manifold... its nearly almost due to that...

The 17705 code also typically comes up more often when outside temps are an indicated 5deg or less... results in soft limp which is fixed but turning the engine off then back on again straight away... doesn't come back until the next cold start as a rule..

<tuffty/>
 
Smoke test or tbh just visually check all the pipes under and around the inlet manifold... its nearly almost due to that...

The 17705 code also typically comes up more often when outside temps are an indicated 5deg or less... results in soft limp which is fixed but turning the engine off then back on again straight away... doesn't come back until the next cold start as a rule..

<tuffty/>



I've checked all the hoses the best i can mate.

TBH, because I've done the n249 bypass and fitted a catch can there's not many hoses under there to leak.

The weather could have something to do with it but I've had the car mapped for the last two winters without getting the fault code. and I'm not going into limp mode (thank god).



I've noticed that this hose gets really soft after long drives:



4444cc.jpg



But when i ask on here i think it was prawn that said its normal.



Are these pressure tests really that useless as AMD seemed to think its a good was of testing for leaks?
 
that hose is used to dump air through the DV, this air has only just left the turbo (about 20" away) and has been through the inter-coolers. The hose will get hot
 

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