D3S Headlamp bulb upgrade

KrisKrk

KrisKrk

A6 C6 4F 2010 LeMans Avant
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Hi all!

New here so I thought I'll ask experts about my issue?

It is more of a dilemma about D3S bulb upgrade.

I've got 2010 Avant A6 C6 wih self level system. From low beam I can switch to high beam on this bulb, by single pull on the stalk (flash only). Having high beam bulb separate, which switches on by pushing stalk forward for constant on.
Read few threads and stories here and there about those bulbs being xenon but i think they are Bi-xenon in my car.
Please correct me if I'm wrong here.

I want to replace these bulbs to something brighter and cooler in temperature at the same time (if possible).

Really like Phillips Xtreme Vision +50% as D3S's or Latest LED High Power bulbs (with or without ballast).

Recently fitted these NightEye H11 6500k 4000lm (per bulb) as Fog's and they look brilliant.
FullSizeRender 4
IMG 5967
FullSizeRender 7 Copy
These type of led bulbs are available as D3S but not sure if error will not show on dash and what light output to expect.

Any ideas, advice, thoughts?

Thx in advance
 
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KrisKrk said:
Hi all!

New here so I thought I'll ask experts about my issue?

It is more of a dilemma about D3S bulb upgrade.

I've got 2010 Avant A6 C6 wih self level system. From low beam I can switch to high beam on this bulb, by single pull on the stalk (flash only). Having high beam bulb separate, which switches on by pushing stalk forward for constant on.
Read few threads and stories here and there about those bulbs being xenon but i think they are Bi-xenon in my car.
Please correct me if I'm wrong here.

I want to replace these bulbs to something brighter and cooler in temperature at the same time (if possible).

Really like Phillips Xtreme Vision +50% as D3S's or Latest LED High Power bulbs (with or without ballast).

Recently fitted these NightEye H11 6500k 4000lm (per bulb) as Fog's and they look brilliant.
View attachment 106444
View attachment 106447
View attachment 106445
These type of led bulbs are available as D3S but not sure if error will not show on dash and what light output to expect.

Any ideas, advice, thoughts?

Thx in advance
Click to expand...
Do you not get any errors, hyperflash, etc for the fog lamps after fitting led ?

2006 Audi A6 3.0TDI quattro sline le mans | Daytona Grey Pearl
 
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Hi Sandra,
Thank you for that.
Will drop them a message.

Hi niedzial1983,

Belive it or not but fitted mid last week and didn't noticed nothing in fogs with those bulbs.
Until today
Previously I had normal leds. They throw an dash error straight away.
Every time I switched on the ignition, the warning sound and bulb sign came up on.
Installed the 50ohm 6watt ressistors but did not helped.
Now with those power led bulbs the error is gone but flashes started.
They both flash at the same time every 30 seconds.
Coming to car and leaving home fog led's come up whenever press open on the key and they look stunning.
These flashes however I noticed today in the rear bumper reflection of the car ahead
Still got ressistors installed.
Found the wire loom under the wheel arch liner, in front of the wheel and cramped ressistors there. All secured with the screw to the metal bracked not to heet up and burn some plastics.
Have same story on the rear as fitted some cree led 501's as a reverse light. No errors since changed but flashes from time to time.

Resistors too weak for the fogs and lack of any for reverse?
 
KrisKrk said:
Hi Sandra,
Thank you for that.
Will drop them a message.

Hi niedzial1983,

Belive it or not but fitted mid last week and didn't noticed nothing in fogs with those bulbs.
Until today
Previously I had normal leds. They throw an dash error straight away.
Every time I switched on the ignition, the warning sound and bulb sign came up on.
Installed the 50ohm 6watt ressistors but did not helped.
Now with those power led bulbs the error is gone but flashes started.
They both flash at the same time every 30 seconds.
Coming to car and leaving home fog led's come up whenever press open on the key and they look stunning.
These flashes however I noticed today in the rear bumper reflection of the car ahead
Still got ressistors installed.
Found the wire loom under the wheel arch liner, in front of the wheel and cramped ressistors there. All secured with the screw to the metal bracked not to heet up and burn some plastics.
Have same story on the rear as fitted some cree led 501's as a reverse light. No errors since changed but flashes from time to time.

Resistors too weak for the fogs and lack of any for reverse?
Click to expand...
What resistors have you got currently ? I read somewhere 20-25ohm should be enough on each side

Apparently when the car checks for bulbs system does it in pairs. So it checks the right side and compares with resistance of the left side ... something new i have learned when researching led swap for c6 :)

2006 Audi A6 3.0TDI quattro sline le mans | Daytona Grey Pearl
 
Got 50ohm 6Watt on each side. Thought it may be enough. Should I add another one, smaller maybe?
Similar situation I have for reverse lights but they do not blink together at the same time and I have no resistors fitted. Surprisingly there was no error on the dash when fitted them.
 
Right, after short conversation with @t8ups, expert in lightning recommendation, I've fitted the Ostam Xernac CBI onto my beloved one.
Before
IMG 6670

IMG 6671

IMG 6672


Unfortunately, I do jot have the road picture but is was poor output anyway. Compare tonother cars, it wasn't so strong and visible on the road.

After the change
IMG 6674

IMG 6675

The light is much more powerful, crispier and cooler in temperature.
Output (stationary)
IMG 6673

Definitely stronger but will take some night, on the road pictures.
Full beam on
IMG 6676

and already more visible ligjt is there.
As all xenon light bulbs have to burn in, I don't expect to fall any loweer than that on the road.
 
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I might need to upgrade the bulbs in my Avant soon.
How easy are they to change?

Just had a quick Google and the Osram Nightbreakers seem to give more light output. Was there any reason why our resident lighting expert recommended the CBIs over the Nightbreakers?
 
Hi Simon968,
They not that difficult to change.
Driver's side need air filter with cover removed and the whole housing also (if you can). I couldn't take it out so squeezed the bulb out and in somehow.
Passenger's side require power steering reservoir unbolting and moving out of the way.
Both bulbs twist left to unscrew and the wire plug has a small tab to press before removing.
Easy job overall and shouldn't take more than 30-40 minutes.

I was after crisper, cooler in temperature and brighter bulbs.
Stock ones have gone darker on the road.

Osrams CBI should give 20% more light and cooler temperature, upto 5000k.
Philips xtreme vision has temperature upto 4800k and should give 50% more light.
Don't know the Night brakers.

Depends what you're after.
 
Will check the cbi's in the dark to compare with stock ones and report back here.
 
KrisKrk said:
Hi Sandra,
Thank you for that.
Will drop them a message.

Hi niedzial1983,

Belive it or not but fitted mid last week and didn't noticed nothing in fogs with those bulbs.
Until today
Previously I had normal leds. They throw an dash error straight away.
Every time I switched on the ignition, the warning sound and bulb sign came up on.
Installed the 50ohm 6watt ressistors but did not helped.
Now with those power led bulbs the error is gone but flashes started.
They both flash at the same time every 30 seconds.
Coming to car and leaving home fog led's come up whenever press open on the key and they look stunning.
These flashes however I noticed today in the rear bumper reflection of the car ahead
Still got ressistors installed.
Found the wire loom under the wheel arch liner, in front of the wheel and cramped ressistors there. All secured with the screw to the metal bracked not to heet up and burn some plastics.
Have same story on the rear as fitted some cree led 501's as a reverse light. No errors since changed but flashes from time to time.

Resistors too weak for the fogs and lack of any for reverse?
Click to expand...

Hi KrisKrk,

Unfortunately the resistors will not stop the flashing, this is a symptom of the LED lighting up quicker than the original halogen bulb. The test pulse is too short to produce noticeable light from a halogen. I've looked into it and there seems to be no way to switch this off


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thank you Steveredman.
Noticed another thread here that a guy was changing he's A6 front bumper to the rs6 version and wanted to disable the fogs entirely with vcds cable and coding. Rs version doesnt have fogs and he didn't want any error on the dash.
I think he managed to get it done but it is possible, I've heard.
Thought of it for a minute but it will disable their functionality so decided to get used to the flashes ever 30sec.

Simon968,
Here's how my lights give light now, after few days of running
IMG 6695


I'm sure they'll change in temperature and further light output as they need approx. 20-30 working hours to burn in.
We'll see in few weeks how it goes.

Thank you all for input
 
This is a great thread. I'm trying to decide between the Nightbreakers and the CBI bulbs too.

Thanks for posting the pics!
 
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Thanx Turbo Tony,
More choice We have, more confused We are, these days. LOL

Let us know what you've went for.
Don't forget about pictures.
 
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They certainly look nice and bright.
How do they compare to the originals out on the road and how many miles had they done?
 
I can see big difference, mate.
With original ones I had no road visibility with street laps beaming down, only when completely dark. I couldn't see far either.
Seen reflections in cars in front and on the road signs but that's about it.
With those Osram's CBI, light is much brighter, more powerful, reaches further and nicely lay on the road. Even with the street lights on, I can see wider pattern on both sides of the road.
Definitely better bulbs than oem ones.

Car has clocked just over 89k and I'm the second owner. First one was an older guy from Bath but looked after the car. Serviced in Audi, kept receipts for all works done and all that.
I doubt bulbs were changed at any point before me.

I want to get the same CBI ones for the main beam as it's still orm yellow.
Some sites tell me they are D3S's like the dipped beam but it doesn't look like that at all. I'm sure it is one of the H ones but need to phone stealership to make sure.
 
It turned out that I have some kind of special version of the car.

After the D3S upgrade, I've looked at the main beam bulb and thought to check them for the type but didn't as all parts were already fitted back.

Checked online and few car bulb websites said I have also D3S for the main beam. Audi dealership also confirmed same story.

Looking at the picture, it definitely does not look like xenon bulb

IMG 6742


Anyone have like that?
 
In mine the same D3S does both dipped and full beam. The headlight has some kind of shade which it moves over the bulb. It has a H8 bulb next to it but this is the cornering bulb (it lights when you turn corners and shines on to the side of the road you are turning towards). Have you put on your main beam and had a look to see which bulbs are lit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yes. Mines are D3S as dipped and main to flash only. Main beam switches on when stalk is pushed forward and these are the bulbs pictured that are on.
 
The halogen bulb is only to flash.
Main beam and dipped beam use the same D3S bulb. A shutter moves when the main beam is selected.
 
Do you know what type is that bulb, Simon?

It does stay on when selected main beam from stalk and dipped raised flap up for full beam when flash only.
Other way round in mine.
 
Not off hand.
I'll have a look in the hand book later.

I think your car must be special :smiley:
 
Handbook doesn't seem to cover headlamp bulbs and there is nothing listed on the Autobulbs website.
However, I can confirm that I only have xenon bulbs on when I push the lever forward and the shutter activates.
When I pull back to flash I get xenon and the halogen too.
 
Lots of halogens look the same, but it looks a lot like an H7 to me.
 
I've just checked my handbook and no information on headlamp bulbs can be found.

Looks like I need to get to the lamp and pull it out to be 100% sure.

Thanx for all help
 
Steveredman said:
In mine the same D3S does both dipped and full beam. The headlight has some kind of shade which it moves over the bulb. It has a H8 bulb next to it but this is the cornering bulb (it lights when you turn corners and shines on to the side of the road you are turning towards). Have you put on your main beam and had a look to see which bulbs are lit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I think cornering headlamps must be quite a rare option, or is it something that you had activated with VCDS?
 
Looking at the picture KrisKrk posted mine looks a little different as the cornering bulb has a reflector next the it to send the light to the side. It's a factory thing on my car. Mine are definitely H8 which is easy to differentiate from H7 by the 90 degree plastic socket on the back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If my car weren't in the garage with it's brake calipers off then I'd take a photo


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Steveredman said:
If my car weren't in the garage with it's brake calipers off then I'd take a photo


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Thanks Steve.
Are you upgrading the calipers or has the electronic handbrake gone?
Mine went just before Christmas which was a nice surprise!
 
That's bad news Simon, luckily for me it's not so dire. The previous owner of my car fitted cheap rotors and pads which were juddering badly. I also suspected at least one of the calipers was binding. The calipers have gone off to be refurbed and painted and when they come back they will be fitted along with EBC rotors and pads which should hopefully be a lot smoother as well as looking nicer under the wheels!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just got back from the car after an hour of trying to get to the main beam bulbs.
It is such a awkward place in the head lamp and restricted by everything around the lamp that I was even not able to look in there properly.
Tried with the phone front camera, different angles and nearly got onto the engine but cannot see a thing. Could not grab them either.
Unable to determine what type of fitment these bulbs are, I've gave up:sos:

I'm going to temove the bumper soon as going to fit new grille so maybe will take the whole lamp out and check.
Probably would need to do it again to install new bulbs in:cower:

As We're with bulbs,
my driver side door puddle and red, warning light are not working.
I've changed the bulbs to led's nearly a year ago and all was fine untill few weeks ago. Today thought I'll change them but it turned out that when I take them both out, in the wires is about 7.5v. If place them back in, they do not work and there is no power at all in there.
Tried to look for fuses but any door related fuse was fine.
Any ideas?
 
I share your pain, I managed to get to the offside bulb by removing the air filter box, after a lot of messing I eventually gave up on the nearside. I did manage to get some images by using the video function on my phone, maybe you could try that?

As for your door lights I believe that the car will cut voltage if it detects a fault, maybe one of the bulbs has a defect? If you have a multimeter you could check the resistance across the bulb's terminals?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I've successfully replaced both low beam D3S bulbs in about half an hour but watched loads of pictures and videos of DIY.
These bulbs are further in the lamp so difficult to see anything.

I've unplug both fittings and tested voltage on both plugs but the same reading of just ober 7.5v.
When bulbs and fittings plugged in, it goes to 0V.
Is there any specific fuse for this loom?
 
It seems odd as I would have expected you to see 12V. If there were a blown fuse then you would see nothing regardless of anything being plugged in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Just a thought, but have you tried putting ordinary bulbs in instead of the LEDs?
If the car detects a fault it will cut power to the circuit.
 
If the LED were creating a short then this would make some sense. As Simon suggested try a normal bulb as a test or if your meter has a resistance function test the bulbs to see if you see anything odd.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanx for the advice. Will try all options and report back.
 
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