Cut out at traffic lights and won't start again..please help!!

i found this on Ross-tech... Could my concert radio be getting in the way?. It mentions k-line one of the problems the computer suggested.. what does it mean?.




Concert and Symphony Radios​
These are made by Matsushita. The Concerts have blatant bugs in the diagnostic protocols. We've added one work-around to the low level protocol drivers that works in some, but not all Concerts, and it is not 100% reliable in any case. ​
Some Concerts occasionally get "stuck" in an undesirable mode after attempting communications. If your Concert gets "stuck", the way to reset it is to remove all power from from the radio for at least 10-15 seconds. This can be done by:​

  • Removing the radio from the car.​
  • Disconnecting the car's battery​
  • Pulling the fuse for the radio.​
Note: Some radios will require you to enter the "security code" using the radio's front panel after losing power. See the owner's manual for the radio for instructions.​
It appears that I suspect there is something not quite up to snuff in the Symphony's ability to drive the K-line. We've had some reports that they work better with non-optically isolated interfaces, and they may work better with the engine running (which means there is a higher voltage on the VBatt lines in the car).​
 
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There we are worth a go assuming you have the code for the HU. Remove the fuse for the HU at the fuse box to make it easier as removing these things can be, er how shall i say it, A ball ache if the clips bend over.

Try it running and go from there
 
I'll have a look a that. Yep still got the code for the HU hope its that simple. I'm due abit of luck with this car now.

Been on this all day but haven't had access to a laptop so i've had to take a desktop pc outside on an extention lead thats dedication for you right there. Might have to drag the pc back out now.
 
desktop outside,Giggle.


It will be worth it, otherwise its a case of randomly changing bits and thats expensive.
The battery is still plenty charged too yeah?
 
Strange you should mention that, i have been on this all day so the ignition has been on. So i have took the battery off and put it on charge for a while. So may be a couple of hours before i can drag the desktop back outside. lol
 
FINALLY... Abit of light at the end of the tunnel.

6 FAULTS

16795- Secondary Air Injection System- Incorrect flow detected

17972
16706

16497-Intake Air Temp Sensor (g42) Signal To High

16486



Then in another reading bit- It says- SECONDARY AIR INJECTION-FAILED.


Is this something to do with the MAF?., :huh: And i have cleared the fault codes..


Its turned over and running going to see how long it lasts.. Still think its to do with that air pipe being completley broken off that i put back on, and maybe it was stored on the ecu and the car was cutting out to protect itself?. The codes have been removed and they have gone off my dashboard now.
 
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http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Category:Fault_Codes
we have a winner


16706/P0322/000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal

Possible Symptoms


  • Engine shuts off
  • Engine doesn't start
  • Speedometer inoperative
  • Glow Plug Indicator Lamp (K29) flashes
Possible Causes


  • Engine Speed Sensor (G28) loose
  • Engine Speed Sensor (G28) faulty
Possible Solutions


  • Check Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
 
16486/P0102/000258 - Mass Air Flow (MAF) (G70): Signal too Low

Possible Symptoms


  • Probably no serious malfunctions
  • Loss of power
Possible Causes


  • Wiring and/or connections (short circuit?)
  • Mass Air Flow (MAF) (G70) defective
Possible Solutions


  • Check wiring and connections
  • Check / Replace Mass Air Flow (MAF) (G70)

Note, probably caused from where the car was run with the MAF disconnetced
 
Do we get a prize Mark ;)

RLC, glad you got it sorted, i had loads of issues when i first bought the lead and you just feel like chuckin the towel in, nice one for carrying on and sticking with it.

get that sensor changed, clear the codes and see what happens after that...the secondary air system wont cause that issue as its there for an entirely different reason.....the later BAM engined cars dont actually have one so you could delete it quite easily (theres a thread on how to do it) - its most likely the pump which are expensive and of little use to you anyway ;)
 
secondary air pump system runs air thru the egr system into the exhaust to reduce the hydrocarbons ppm while the engines cold (fuel enrichment = choke). that vac pipe you fixed will be the end of those faults.

the air mass and air temp faults you will have caused by unplugging it.
also will have put the traction light on as the traction system uses the air mass signal to calculate engine load.

engine speed sensor (crank sensor) - no signal....... fit new sensor!
 
Going to pick up an new ESS up tomorrow and see how i get on, going to use Euro car parts cause there only a few miles away. They have 3 Engine speed sensors that will suit my car £29.58, £33.43, £46.19 I'm guessing that's without VAT.

Hopefully the old one comes off quite easily without any problems..

Forgot to say thanks again chaps for the suggestions and help, the towel was close to going in especially when i couldn't get the vagcom lead working earlier but i hope this sensor sorts out the problem.
 
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its only a single 10mm nut mate, pain in the **** is getting it out of the hole once the nuts off..... ;)
 
Unplugged it at the top end under the manifold, and undone the bracket there to get better access how do i get it off there?. Cause its on a plate and its held in place does in just slide up with alot of force??. i've tryed bending the clips to get it off but its a right strange set up to hold it in place.. The only way i can see it coming off is damaging whats holding it.
P100817_111959.jpg
 
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it lives inside the engine, it will only get dirty again, its supposed to work with a film of oil,gunk on it.
 
The new one would have the same problem eventually then. I know it lives in the engine and has oil on it but the end of it and about halfway down is got a film over it that's really hard on, like a coating that would only scrape or scratch off which would make the sensor not work, right?.

And doesn't it work like a magnet?. I've found some other info on google suggesting that you can clean them and sometimes that's all it takes but i suppose there's a risk in that.
 
i cleaned mine mate and it made no difference....replace it to be certain ;)
 
Cleaned it up chaps and gave it a go, but it cut out after ticking over for 5 mins and wouldn't start again, same as before.
So it looks like a new one.. Any idea how to remove it from the top end off that bracket that i posted earlier?.

oh managed to snap my dipstick housing while at it lol.
 
i did tell ya haha!! dealer job for the dipstick.....as mentioned above

you slide the connector out of the bracket towards the front of the car......
 
Yeh you did warn me, it broke abit to easy though haha. While looking at the car i noticed a wire that had totally broken away that leads to the alternator which i've fixed..

Its 2 small wires that are to do with the sensor im guessing on the alternator.

I don't think it will.. now aswell on the dash im getting a battery light, cause i've fixed that wire leading to the alternator. It should just clear using vagcom?. strange nothing appeared before with this wire being broke unless its been done on purpose to bypass it, or something?.

I've only had the car 2 months and its got a 3 month warranty but it doesn't cover sensors, and its alot of hassle getting it back there cause they don't pick up..

love these audi's just wish it wernt giving me so many problems already.
 
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Just got the part its made by FAE and cost £57.99 including VAT. There was one at another place for 21.99 or something excluded vat but opted for more expensive one.
 
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Your battery light should come on with the igntion then go out once you start the engine.

If it doesnt theres something wrong with the alternator, or the wire you've been messing with.
 
audi upgrades
:thumbsup:Yeah Aragorn, i know the battery light should go out but it was staying on, it has gone now... So another job done hopefully.

Well so far so good New Crank speed sensor on and the car seems to be ok..... Hopefully thats going to solve it chaps. thanks again for help and advice.. Come in really useful and saved me an arm & leg.
 
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I'm having very similar problems with my 2000 1.8t AGU. I hope it's not my crank sensor. No lights come on the dash before it cuts out and it doesn't matter if the car is warm or not. I can't get vagcom until payday so as you can imagine I'm not a happy ma!
 
Paul Robinson said:
I'm having very similar problems with my 2000 1.8t AGU. I hope it's not my crank sensor. No lights come on the dash before it cuts out and it doesn't matter if the car is warm or not. I can't get vagcom until payday so as you can imagine I'm not a happy ma!
Click to expand...
Might help to describe your car + symptoms in a separate thread. Also, there might be a member near you that has VCDS available...
 
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