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Cruise Control Retrofit Guide

Discussion in 'A3/S3/Sportback (8P Chassis)' started by Avus Sportback, Jan 23, 2011.

  1. Avus Sportback
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    Avus Sportback Member

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    [Jan 23, 2011]
    I have searched and searched the internet to find a Cruise Control installation guide and "Sijones" was the only guide I could find. Hope you don't mind Sijones as I'm going to include a few pictures and notes for others :thumbsup:

    This guide is for the 3 spoke steering wheel with Multi Function, it may differ slightly for other steering wheels.

    Some of the pictures have the Cruise Control stalk in them, this is because I took the pictures for the guide after fitting the new stalk!


    1. Before disconnecting the battery, start the engine and rotate the steering wheel to remove the two black plugs from the back of the steering wheel followed by the two airbag fastening bolts "T25", be careful not to let the airbag fall out after removing the screws. Then straighten the wheel, turn the engine off and disconnect the battery. (I have the 3 Spoke MFSW)

    2. The Image below shows the back off the airbag and the connectors. The Top of the Yellow connector is orange, this pulls backwards towards the camera to release the yellow plug. The black plug just pulls apart. (Some say don't disconnect the airbag for 30 min after disconnection of battery, I did it straight away and had no problems)

    [​IMG]

    3. Then undo the M12 (Multi Spline) bolt, Just remove the bolt, do not pull the steering wheel it will come off, it's not like old style where it was wedged on.

    [​IMG]

    4. Take a good look at the middle, and you will see 2 marks, one on the steering wheel and one on the steering rack. Perhaps take a photo if you can so you have a referance, on mine the steering wheel mark was pretty "spot on" to the rack mark. Once you know, pull the wheel off...

    [​IMG]

    5. Remove the bottom cowelling, to do this you need to remove the adjuster handle underneath (2 x T25 screw) and the other T25 screw that you will see. The top of the Cowell hinges up like a car bonnet so you can gain access to the two front T25 screws (do not disturb slip ring position)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    6. Your then looking at the slip ring, now as everyone says to be really careful not to move it etc etc, I used insulation tape and placed that over it to stop any movement.

    [​IMG]

    7. At bottom of the slip ring is a T9 screw, remove it... Now the steering ECU to remove.
    Remove the 2 connectors at the back, to do this the main (big black one) one has a plastic clip that's red and with a flat blade is pulled out which allows you then to push a another clip behind down and pull the black plug out, sounds complicated but it's easy when you see it. The other connector is a spring loaded clip, push it away from the ecu and the plug will come out.

    8. Now between the main black plug and the small other plug there is a plastic latch, with one hand gently pulling the ecu down, use a finger to find the latch and release (see photo) The first clip is directly above the black connector, you push it in and the back of the steering ECU will drop down

    [​IMG]

    There is another latch to be released from the front (I struggled like hell with this one!) , you can use a 2.3 mm drill bit to push down the hole which should release the second clip (see Photo), Do not try and force the ECU down as you bend the clip and make things worst like I did, I didn't know the construction of the clip but it all becomes clear when you see the ECU removed, so this should be a head start for you guys.

    This shows T9 screw and the hole below for the release of second clip (I used 2mm long allen key)

    [​IMG]

    The below pic shows the chamber the 2.3mm drill or allen key comes through to, the clip is shaped like a goal post and should have a plastic leg hanging from the top middle of the goal post crossbar which would be touching my allen key on the left side had i not snapped it off in anger! Again don't try and force it down, the ECU will drop on its own when the clip is properly released. When you push the allen key through it pushes the clip to the left and the ECU should drop.

    [​IMG]

    The ecu should pull downwards off the rack with these 2 clips released.

    9. At top of wheel there is 2 clips holding slip ring in place, one at 10 o'clock and the other at 2. Unclip and the slip ring will pull off.

    [​IMG]

    10. Remove the ESP steering sensor at the bottom and put out the way

    [​IMG]

    11. The indicator stalk is held in by a plastic clip at the left back, i used a screwdriver to prise this while pulling the stalk forward away from dash, it seemed like it was being held, but with a little tug it came off.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    12. Push new one in place and reverse above, dont forget esp sensor, slip ring on, ECU back in, T9 screw in, Cowelling back on, steering wheel (check alignment with reference point), tighten bolt, airbag and MFSW plugs, screw airbag in and your done!

    I did get the ESP error message when restarted car, this went after driving for 2 minutes.

    If you need the control wire, it goes to pin 13 on steering main black plug, and pin 4 on a blue connector under dash, the instructions say remove the connector but using pin nose pliers i pushed it into the connector in place, simply because i couldn't for the life of me get the connector out as it's in the most akward place and no room for tools really to undo it...

    Big thanks to Sijones :arco:
    #1
    mungwah likes this.
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  3. evilbane
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    evilbane Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jan 23, 2011]
    Awesome guide buddy, this is the guide anyone can follow!
    #2
  4. sijones
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    sijones Member VCDS Map User

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    [Jan 23, 2011]
    Yep cheers.
    #3
  5. Lewbo
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    Lewbo OEM Retrofitter

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    [Mar 9, 2012]
    Many thanks this is a great guide to follow really made things easier for me following this.
    #4
  6. lukeajones
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    lukeajones New Member

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    [Mar 9, 2012]
    Hi does anybody know what I will need to do this as I have the 3 spoke steering wheel without multi function controls
    #5
  7. crunchie
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    crunchie Active Member

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    [Apr 18, 2012]
    Top thread, don't think I would have tackled it without it.
    How can you tell if you need the control wire tho....?
    Bit late if I need it now, its all boxed back up haha.
    #6
  8. woter324
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    woter324 New Member

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    [Apr 22, 2012]
    Thank you very much. Very good guide.

    The steering wheel control module still got me. That clip just didn't want to unclip. It definitely unclips to the left. I would use a 1.5mm Alan key, push all the way in, push the Alan key to the right, so the end in the slot pushes to the left, against the clip and slowly pull back until you find the clip. The rear clip needs to be released first. I held this clip open while fiddling with the front clip.

    In the end I actually removed the circuit board from underneath; being very careful not to touch any of the circuitry, revealing and giving very easy access to the stubborn clip The back left clip of the circuit board is obscured by the lock housing. A little electrical screwdriver is enough to gently prize the clip off.

    Also, don't pull out the leatherette when removing the top cover. It is really fiddly to get it back in. In the end my GF's nimble fingers where required. LOL.
    I didn’t bother stopping the steering angle sensor moving. 10 yards down the road the ESP and steering wheel light went out.
    As far as programming goes, I had to enable 01-Engine. My car has the long coding version so it was bit-6 = 01 and then on module 16-steering wheel, short coding, 6[SUP]th[/SUP] bit from 1 (onboard computer, W/O CCS) to 4 (onboard computer, with CCS).
    As far as the road test went, I think the steering wheel module (1K0 953 349 F) must be thinking it is a 4-position CCS stalk, similar to a Golf as it does not function as expected. There is no speed display in the dash (I don’t know if an A3 has this the new TT does), but this might be the dash version, only the little yellow dial lights up on the dash.
    On the CCS stalk:
    On Forward (click 1)
    Engage Forward (click 2)
    Speed + Up
    Speed - Down
    Disengage Back (1)
    Resume Forward (click1) + Up


    HTH
    #7
  9. MrLapou
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    MrLapou Well-Known Member

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    [Apr 22, 2012]
    I've just yesterday installed CC.
    MY2009 A3. Set speed dial with arrow and speed in digits comes up in the DIS then disappears when set, plus a green dial appears in the warning light area and stays on while CC activated/in use.
    #8
  10. gizm0
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    gizm0 Member

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    [May 3, 2012]
    Installed cc on my 2008 a3 the other day but it's being coded Saturday, I forgot all about the extra wire in the box, is there any way I can ind out if I need it without taking it all apart again? Lol don't want to get to the garage to find out I need it lol
    #9
  11. Dannykn9
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    Dannykn9 "Cruise My Ride" VCDS Map User

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    [May 3, 2012]
    Your car being a 2008 has the wire installed already mate so just get it coded and enjoy!
    #10
  12. gizm0
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    gizm0 Member

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    [May 3, 2012]
    Phew pleased now lol

    Its a 57 plate 2008 though should it still be ok?
    #11
  13. Dannykn9
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    Dannykn9 "Cruise My Ride" VCDS Map User

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    [May 3, 2012]
    You are fine mate, it was pre-facelift split grill that didn't have the wire in place. Your all good mate.
    #12
  14. gizm0
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    gizm0 Member

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    [May 3, 2012]
    All good then :) thanks buddy!
    #13
  15. gizm0
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    gizm0 Member

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    [May 6, 2012]
    Ok had the cruise control coded but sadly it still doesn't work so I'm presuming it need to fit the wire, has anyone got any pics of where the control wire has to go? I presume it's steering wheel off again time?
    #14
  16. Dannykn9
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    Dannykn9 "Cruise My Ride" VCDS Map User

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    [May 6, 2012]
    Who coded it for you mate?
    You definitely have the wire but if you want to check, then you need to remove your wheel, airbag and lower cowling. Check the black connector on the back of steering ecu, Pin13, if there is a wire in there then you have it in place.
    I am guessing it has not been coded properly.

    When the engine module is coded you need to turn the ignition off for a least 30 seconds otherwise it will not be stored.

    Quick question, does your car have the trip computer?
    #15
  17. gizm0
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    gizm0 Member

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    [May 6, 2012]
    A lad at midland vow, he's actually a memeron here as well, I saw him go onto the cruise control setting and change the code to the correct one and I believe he's done it before a swell, yeah I have the trip computer, where does the other end of the wire go.

    Thanks
    #16
  18. jasonc
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    jasonc Active Member

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    [May 6, 2012]
    There are 2 different places that it has to be coded before it will work. From memory one location was fairly obvious (I think under steering module) and the other took a bit of tracking down - in the Engine module I think.
    #17
  19. gizm0
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    gizm0 Member

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    [May 6, 2012]
    Hmmm sounds fun then lol
    #18
  20. jasonc
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    jasonc Active Member

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    [May 6, 2012]
    If it's any help I've just dug out some notes from when I did mine.

    For my 2008 S3 I had to change:

    Steering Wheel from 0002012 to 0004022

    Engine from 0103000C180F0060 to 0103000C180F0160
    #19
  21. Dannykn9
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    Dannykn9 "Cruise My Ride" VCDS Map User

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    [May 6, 2012]
    That is the long coding. Do not use this on yours gizm0 as you may do something wrong to the engine module as you will most likely have different stuff installed.

    You need to recode steering module 16 and change 2nd last digit to 4.
    You also need to recode engine module 1 coding II, enter 11463 to activate cruise. Switch ignition off for at least 30 secs.
    In the event you can't log in here, then go to long coding and there should be a drop down menu where you can select cruise installed.
    #20
  22. gizm0
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    gizm0 Member

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    [May 6, 2012]
    Ok cheers, he definately changed the second to last digit but unsure of the other bit, hopefully he'll see this....
    #21
  23. gizm0
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    gizm0 Member

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    [May 7, 2012]
    All sorted :D :D
    #22
  24. Dannykn9
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    Dannykn9 "Cruise My Ride" VCDS Map User

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    [May 7, 2012]
    What was the problem in the end fella?
    #23
  25. gizm0
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    gizm0 Member

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    [May 7, 2012]
    Just the coding of the steering module, took two mins to do that bit :)
    #24
  26. flippin82
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    flippin82 New Member

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    [May 26, 2012]
    Hello! I have done everything after the book now, and i have been looking for ages now trying to find the blue connector, but there is no chance i can find it. can anybody please guide me to where i can find the blue connector?
    #25
  27. Breezey
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    Breezey Member

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    [Aug 26, 2012]
    Thread bump, im in the process of doing this right now and have hit a bit of a niggle. My cars a prefaclift so i need the extra wire which is fine but how the hell do you get the blue connector block out? ive found it which was a pig but getting it out to beth the wire in seems impossible!
    #26
  28. mechanic69
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    mechanic69 Active Member

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    [Sep 14, 2012]
    To get to the blue connector you need go from the engine bay. Take wipers off, then scuttle panel out, use wd40 and spray around joint with windscreen then carefully prise scuttle panel up with a screw driver, carefully work along and it will pop out. Take winscreen motor out. Next 3 bolts to take panel beneath out and move out of along loom. You will see blue connector in a plastic panel below. Slide locking strip to the right and unplug the three connectors. The blue connector can now be removed along with the plastic panel. Withdraw the red locking strip in the plug and you can install the repair wire in slot 4. make sure you get teh pin the right way round. Easy!!! now refitting is just reverse.

    To get easier access from the inside remove the driver side shelf under the steering colomn and take out the relay panel.

    You may have read about pushing the wire in from the back with pliers but that could fook it up.

    Hope that helps.
    #27
  29. downtothebone
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    downtothebone Active Member

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    [Sep 15, 2012]
    Did this a few days ago using the guide - seemed daunting but actually was easier than I thought. One addition you might want to do is before removing the steering wheel I made a mark on back of the wheel that lined up with the join of the upper and lower steering column cowls. This meant that if the slip ring moved (which it did) I had a reference point for lining up the steering wheel when refitting.
    #28
  30. Dannykn9
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    Dannykn9 "Cruise My Ride" VCDS Map User

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    [Sep 15, 2012]
    Why did you not just use the marks on the shaft and the wheel itself to remember the way it is lined up? After all, that is what them marks are there for.
    #29
  31. ondmygg
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    ondmygg New Member

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    [Nov 4, 2012]
    everybody is talking about a blue conector under the dash, called t12a if im not wrong?
    been looking at a drawing, were it says pin 4 goes to fuse, 3-5 amps. is there not a easyier way to do this then?


    [​IMG]
    #30
  32. ondmygg
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    ondmygg New Member

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    [Nov 4, 2012]
    [​IMG] is it not a easyer way for this repair wire? pin 4 goes to a fuse 3-5 amps?
    #31
  33. ondmygg
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    ondmygg New Member

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  34. L333fow
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    L333fow Member

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    [Jan 1, 2013]
    Hi I have a 2007 sb sline without the mfsw is it just case of purchasing the stalk and installing for me?

    cheers
    #33
  35. Dannykn9
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    Dannykn9 "Cruise My Ride" VCDS Map User

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    [Jan 1, 2013]
    Happy new year mate.

    yes it is, provided you have the trip computer stalk as a minimum which would indicate you have at least a mid line module to support cruise.
    If in the London area, I can offer this service to you? Have done for many on here.
    #34
  36. L333fow
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    L333fow Member

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    [Jan 1, 2013]
    Happy new to you too!

    No I'm up in Leeds mate!
    yeh got trip computer etc
    how much am I looking at?

    Cheers
    #35
  37. mike foster
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    mike foster Fossie VCDS Map User

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    [Jan 1, 2013]
    Hi Lee - I can do it for you. You will only need the stalk and a lower cowl. Your other components are ok.

    Then it needs coding.

    PM me if you're interested.
    #36
  38. Dannykn9
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    Dannykn9 "Cruise My Ride" VCDS Map User

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    [Jan 1, 2013]
    Ah, no worries mate. Parts will cost from dealer around £110. Then I would suggest you take up Mikes offer. Very well respected bloke on the forum.
    #37
  39. mike foster
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    mike foster Fossie VCDS Map User

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    [Jan 1, 2013]
    #38
  40. L333fow
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    L333fow Member

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    [Jan 1, 2013]
    Thanks guys!
    mike ill be in contact if I'm gonna go ahead with it! I love cruise control especially with the managed motorway on m62 but the wife won't use it and she uses car most!
    #39
  41. mike foster
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    mike foster Fossie VCDS Map User

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    [Jan 1, 2013]
    OK Lee - no problem. You do know that CC can be disengaged if you want it to be don't you ?
    #40

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