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Cracked head, can anyone help or advise?

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by James333, Aug 20, 2008.

  1. James333
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    James333 Member

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    :Flush: doh........

    Just took my head off of my '51 s3 as it was using water so was replacing the head gasket.
    This afternoon, i took it to be skimmed and tested but the bloke in the engine shop showed me a crack between (if i remeber correctly) the 2 exhaust valves on cylinder number 1.
    I dont know what to do now, is it even worth pressure testing it if its just going to get worse!?:blownose:

    Where would be best to look for a new head, its an amk engine so what other heads are identical? I hear there are lots of different types, non vvt, big/small port etc...
    is there a list showing which ones i can use?

    Thanks for any input, james:blownose:
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  2. HTC
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    HTC Active Member

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    Exhaust valves get v hot on these engines. I certainly wouldn't want to refit a cracked head personally.

    Any 1.8T head would fit physically. You could fit an early large port head, but that would involve porting the inlet manifold......how brave are you?

    I'm pretty sure all the later VVT heads are the same with regards to port/valve sizes etc. Can't be sure about cam profiles, but that doesn't matter as you can take all the stuff off your head if needed.
    So you should be able to use these codes of the top of my head (get it? :rolleyes: ) AUM, AUQ, BAM, APX, AMK, APY (would need to swap over your VVT stuff for that one). More codes from Seat and skoda cars as well.

    Hope it goes well for you.
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  3. James333
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    James333 Member

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    Thanks loads!!:hi:

    The more i have thought of it, the more im thinking that too, i want this car to last me a good while, and if im going to be replacing the head in a years time, i might aswell save myself all that work and the cost of ANOTHER head gasket when it properly goes.

    Is there any reasonable gains from the large port head? Would i be right in thinking the large ports dont have VVT? can it be swapped over from my original head?

    I would consider matching the manifold if it was worth it?

    Thanks again
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  4. HTC
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    HTC Active Member

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    You'll see a little bit more flow over the rev range mostly top end. Some people say better torque with small port, but I'm not convinced. Not entirely sure how much meat is left in the small port manifold for porting.

    VVT and non VVT cam tensioners are indeed interchangable. Some poeple remove the VVT stuff in their later cars as a part of an engine bay clean up. It's emissions stuff.

    If I were you I traul ebay in all the different VAG sections and pick up a small port to get you back on the road quickly.

    This one is from an audi TT and will fit

    Here's another

    And another

    Recon head
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  5. James333
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    James333 Member

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    A big thanks again for the info and especially taking the time to post the links! Im a bit unsure about the 'ported' head, surely the main selling point of a ported head would be the ports and the picture shows only the bottom of the head haha
    I bought an amzing head for my 2.0 16v golf and the add was covered in detailed pictures of the work that had been done.

    I spoke to someone today, they will sell me a refurb head for £390, this includes sending my head to them to get my cams and vvt etc off.

    I figure, if i pay £100s for a second hand head, i will probably spend another £80+ on leak tests and skimming, where this head i have been offered will have new stems and re cut valves etc. I was told about the importance of re building the head today too, i dont know if it was 'salesman' talk but he said the 20v heads need to be so carefully re built due to things lke the narrow valve shafts and the easiness to incorrectly seat the collets meaning dropped rods on startup, is this true?

    I got a price for if i built the head and it was £60 less so probably letting a professional do it?

    Can i get this straight then HTC, if i found a large port head, could i strip it to the bare casting and fit EVERY component from my original head?

    Again, thanks so much for the info
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  6. HTC
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    HTC Active Member

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    That guy deffo knows what he is talking about with regards to the valve spring seating. Take a look at this --> CLick me
    Broken valves on first start entirely possible on incorrectly seated valve springs.

    Inlet valve guides are usually fine, exhaust guides may well need changing. Info on checking valve guide clearance.
    Need to be careful with inserting guides. Some are not quite the right size and can crack the head when fitting. Your guy will probably be aware of that. Supertech do guides that fit perfectly. I have a set to go in mine soon.
    I wouldn't query about spending £390 on a recon head. Saves any worry.

    Yes you can fit all the stuff from your head to a large port from the AGU engine. I can't be sure if you can port your inlet manifold enough to meet the head though. Most people fit an after market inlet but thats big money. You can fit your inlet to it but there will be a step down which might cause inlet air turbulance. Exhaust ports are a tiny bit larger, again some port matching required which can be done on your exhaust manifold. I'd stick with the small port thinking about it now for less hassle.
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  7. scott_johnson
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    scott_johnson Audiless

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    Crack head?? speak to grathies!!! hehe
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  8. Clach
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    Clach A3 - 1.8Ts

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    How much water or coolant is normal for a mid aged car to use? Are top up's common? Sorry for diverting the thread a tad!
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  9. jimbo_123
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    jimbo_123 Member

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    I would say it should use no coolant at all, not unless you have an external leak? But saying that you may have a tiny leak which is hardly noticable and over time it will drop the coolant level.

    But in a nutshell no matter what the age of the car a fully functioning coolant system on a modern car shouldn't leak or consume any coolant.
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  10. HTC
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    HTC Active Member

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    I agree :icon_thumright:
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