Code help!!!

[Wilts]

Hi guys could sum1 help me and explain wat these are and how to fix please, iv got black sutty cumin out bk box and it smells like its over fueling. These r codes that cum up...

 

[Nick090884]

Hi ya mate have a look on here Category:Fault Codes - Ross-Tech Wiki it will give you some idea as to what may need checking. did you clear the faults and rescan ?

Hope this helps.

Nick

 

[Wilts]

Yea cleard them and my mate said he will test again in afew days but it was his car b4 me and it didnt have any fault codes, plus the sutt and over fueling smell i get.

 

[Wilts]

So basicly my mass sensor is fuked or needs cleanin and the wastgate needs adjusting???? But whats the other code i dont understand can some1 help please

 

[Wilts]

Any1 wanna shed some light??

 

[<tuffty/>]

First of all please no txt speak as it puts people off reading... secondly rather than posting pics that we have to **** our heads to even read just post the actual codes...

If the post if difficult to read then you aren't going to get much of a response

The link to the Ross Tech Wiki should be your first port of call as this will have most of the information about the actual codes... interpreting what they mean of course is next...

Anyhoo... assuming you are after info for all the codes in the pics...

18010
18010/P1602/005634 - Ross-Tech Wiki
18010/P1602/005634 - Power Supply B+ Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
This happens when the battery has been removed or the ECU has been flashed... unlikely to return after clearing it

18259
Not listed is the wiki but a google produced..
18259 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ABS Controller
Don't know about that one but google is your friend...

17978
17978/P1570/005488 - Ross-Tech Wiki
17978/P1570/005488 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer

01262
01262 - Ross-Tech Wiki
01262 - Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75): Short to Ground
Sounds like a wiring fault with the N75

16486
16486/P0102/000258 - Ross-Tech Wiki
16486/P0102/000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70): Signal too Low
Could be a symptom of the wiring issues as they share earths etc...

I would be checking the wiring first and get rid of the N75 code then look at whats left... the MAF code is normally due to airflow being below a mapped threshold for too long (there is a MAF signal too high too that is common on remapped cars)

Could be the MAF is knackered too but if the N75 is not working then you will have no boost and therefore less airflow so its most likely the reason the MAF code is there... fix the N75 issue and I suspect the MAF fault won't reappear once cleared

<tuffty/>

 

[Wilts]

Ok comment taking on board, so n75 where does that number come from and how do i look for the wire etc, i have no clue on audi so its like trying to learn french or somthing lol. P.s thanks for your help as id be stuck else!!

 

[<tuffty/>]

Posting the model and year of your car would help but as you have 1997 A3 1.8t listed in your profile we'll go with that

That would make it an AGU engine code (good to know these things as it make a difference when trying to work out how to help)...

N75 is the boost control valve and can be found at the top of the turbo inlet pipe (TIP)... tried to find a pic of a fairly std engine bay to show you but most are modded... this one is close enough but note that the wiring for the plug is broken in this one...

Seems to be a common issue (broken wires that is...)

You could try unplugging the N75 (electrically), clear the codes and run the car... you will have less boost so performance won't be where it should but checking faults afterwards should return at least an N75 open circuit fault (as its disconnected)... if the short circuit fault has gone it could be a bad N75 valve in which case its worth seeing if you can borrow one from a friend to try first before going out and buying one as they are around 50 quid..

If the short to ground fault comes back then it could be a bad earth or another wiring fault..

Favourite area for bad wiring is the earth clusters under the battery tray so worth having a look under there too...

<tuffty/>

 

[Wilts]

Ok thanks very much il have a look in the morning to check wires are ok and all pluged in etc and il get back to you, cheers again.

 

[Wilts]

Ive just been out and the wire/plug to the above pic n75 seems to be fine so you say look at the earths under the batt tray yea?

 

[<tuffty/>]

Ive just been out and the wire/plug to the above pic n75 seems to be fine so you say look at the earths under the batt tray yea?

Check the earths yes but try running the car with the N75 electrically disconnected too but you must clear the fault codes in between doing this else you won't know for sure if its come back or not...

Do you have access to the scanner at all? at this point I would recommend getting hold of VCDS in some form or other... you can buy a lead from ebay and use VCDS light which is the cheapest option to get you going..

VCDS is a great diagnostic tool and even at the registered price its worth the money

<tuffty/>

 

[Wilts]

No my mate is bringing scanner home from work 2morw so clear codes unplug it then drive it then plug back in and scan again yea? But il check earths aswell.

 

[<tuffty/>]

No my mate is bringing scanner home from work 2morw so clear codes unplug it then drive it then plug back in and scan again yea? But il check earths aswell.

Ignition on, clear the codes, ignition off, unplug N75, start engine and drive around the block, stop engine, ignition on, scan for faults and take note of any that come up, clear codes, ignition off, plug N75 back in

<tuffty/>