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Discussion in 'A3/S3/Sportback (8P Chassis)' started by Charlie23, Jun 5, 2014.
Hi guys is this clutch kit any good??
info would be much appreciated
eBay - 280615066646
Just one word Techniclutch .
Let me google that for you
Hahaha sounds like you really rate them lol
Have a look at this thread,
You've bought a great car,but you'll find that good parts,and labour don't come cheap.
The Sachs organic clutch and DMF are probably the best choice for Stg2+ power,and the old saying of "buy cheap and buy twice" is very true for these cars.
Haha, well my S3 is 2007 57 plate at the moment, would that of had a LUK clutch And fly wheel?
Cut a long story short bought the S3 fly wheel and clutch has gone, dont have ££££ to fix it the garage is willing to give me a few £££ towards it so would a new sachs clutch and fly wheel be ok for further mods?
Almost certainly yours will have the "un" LUK "y" clutch.
The Sachs organic and DMF is good for over 400lbs as long as you don't do drag starts and take the time to bed it in properly.
Mine gave up at 440lbs in Stg3.
Hahaha, not looking to go drag racing haha,
And how would you recommend bedding it in? Havent got it yet but would like to know a few details for when it goes in next week?
i keep seeing that people are saying the sachs organic clutch is no good for drag racing? ive just ordered one myself with a SMF and I plan to be doing 1/4 miles with it. do they all of a sudden fail or am I just likely to be shaving some miles off the life of the clutch like you would expect with hard launches?
If you've seen reports saying that the Sachs is not the choice for drag starts it does kind of beg the question of why you've ordered one.
The best choice would have been either a paddle clutch(bearing in mind their traffic driving issues) or one like mine(a Spec Stg3+) which has a far higher torque rating and is race derived.
The Sachs as you know,has an organic based friction material and is simply not aimed at that sort of use.
If you overheat it or subject it to repeated over torques it is likely to either suffer excessive wear or simply fail completely.
I didn't see this until I had ordered. I was going to buy the paddle but after my mate putting one in his s3 and it not changing at high rpm I decided against it. How much are the spec clutches going for? I can still cancel my order
Makes a lot more sense now.
A Spec Stg 3+ is a full face carbon ceramic clutch with a choice of stainless steel or alloy flywheels.
Cost is around £1200 plus fitting.
Bear in mind then that the weak point in your cars transmission moves from the clutch to either gearbox or driveshafts.
I've just been looking on there website but I doesn't really explain the being it's of either flywheel, you got any idea?
Sorry....not quite sure what you're trying to ask there.
Are you asking which flywheel to use or what?
sorry, meant to say the benefits of either flywheel. Either stainless or alloy?
Alloy is lighter and may allow the engine to rev slightly quicker but has less strength overall and may wear quicker.
I chose stainless.
Few other things... Did you ever sort out the gearbox whining on your car and what sort of power and torque is it running and why bother with drag runs.
I've listened to a few others and they all have the same whine, think that's more from the engine as it's rev related & the seats do it aswel. It's Revo stage 2+ at the moment but never got round to getting a dyno done on it. I do track days and 1/4 sprints with it, just like to have a play with all sorts really.
The reason I'm asking is the S3s gearbox is not its strongest point and there are a few people who've either wrecked the box or knackered driveshafts and doughnuts trying this sort of thing.
My advice would be that trackdays are fine but repeated drag runs are a great way of finding which parts are the weakest.
Changing to effectively a bullet proof clutch means it won't break but the next link in the chain will instead.