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clutch adjustment

Discussion in 'A4/S4 forum(B5 Chassis)' started by pjw, Dec 10, 2010.

  1. pjw
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    pjw Member

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    [Dec 10, 2010]
    Right, ive had a good search on here (annoying you cant search specifically in the b5 forum) and im enquiring about why my clutch has such a high biting point. Its not slipping, but i want to adjust it. Where does the cable go into the gearbox inside the engine bay?

    Every other thread ive found just says "do a search theres loads of threads on it.. " but none of them are linked and ive failed to find them.

    Its a cable clutch on a ADP 1.6 fwd.:happy:
    #1
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  3. Blue_Thunder
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    Blue_Thunder Active Member

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    [Dec 10, 2010]
    You can search specifically in this forum.

    Just go to the grey 'Search Forum' drop down below the advert banners. Then go to Advanced Search, scroll down and you'll see a 'Search Forum' box. Highlight the B5 forum and Bob's your uncle.
    #2
  4. Broken Byzan
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    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Dec 10, 2010]
    You sure it's cable?

    I thought they were all hydraulic and non adjustable
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  5. phoenixv6quattro
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    phoenixv6quattro staylowmovefast

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    [Dec 10, 2010]
    I thought it was Hydraulic too. Would be nice to adjust it though! Like yours its going strong (after 140k!) but the bite point is near the top!
    #4
  6. mike-a
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    mike-a Member

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    [Dec 10, 2010]
    If you google for clutch adjustment 1.8t (I think) there is an American site that tells you how to do it.You alter the length of the push rod on the slave cylinder.
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  7. PaulTheo
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    PaulTheo Member

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    [Dec 10, 2010]
    Mine was not a cable and they all seem to take up quite high. My clutch was still going strong at 169000 original from new and it was always like that. Hope my B8 does as well!!!
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  8. PaulTheo
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    PaulTheo Member

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    [Dec 10, 2010]
    or let some air in LOL
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  9. pjw
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    pjw Member

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    [Dec 11, 2010]
    I found this:

    Look underneath the dash, you should see a threaded rod on the clutch pedal to the self adjusting assembly. Loosen the locking nut with a (10mm) wrench. Turn the treaded rod with a pliers or another wrench as you feel the pedal. If you grind going in reverse, you wnet too far :) Actually, you will see the pedal move down, so you can tell when enough is enough.

    Ill give it a go tomorrow.
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  10. phoenixv6quattro
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    phoenixv6quattro staylowmovefast

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    [Dec 11, 2010]
    Interesting! Be keen to try that pending your results mate!
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  11. pjw
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    pjw Member

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    [Dec 11, 2010]
    The other option is to remove the rod that comes off the slave cylinder, and as above, lengthen it a little. The only thing im paranoid of (and i probably will do it) is dropping the rod into the bell housing. If that happens then its gearbox off time!

    Cars on the ramps at the moment in order for me to find motivation and sort out a blow on the centre section/backbox join, soon as i slide it off ill give the above a go.
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  12. phoenixv6quattro
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    phoenixv6quattro staylowmovefast

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    [Dec 11, 2010]
    " If that happens then its gearbox off time! " - SOD THAT!!!
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  13. pjw
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    pjw Member

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    [Dec 12, 2010]
    Yeah thats what i thought. I did a suspension arm and the centre section this weekend so didnt get time to have a look. Might have a cheeky try at lunchtime tomorrow at work..
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  14. Audi2ptzero
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    Audi2ptzero Member

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    [Dec 14, 2010]

    Making the slave arm longer is done when the clutch is engaging too close to the floor or not disengaging at all making it hard to get into gear. This forces the fingers down further but if made too long can cause the fingers to bottom out on the disk. Can also cause the clutch to slip if the slave piston is all the way back and the fingers are not allowed to come up all the way. Making the arm shorter will just shorten the travel of the slave cylinder.

    The stock clutch is always going to engage very high on the pedal, this is the design of the piviot point and the low clamping load. Doesn't take much slave movement and PP movement to release the disk.


    As for your post about the nut on the pedal. Sounds like the only thing that is doing is lowering the height of where the pedal sits above the floor and making the pedal travel shorter, not actually chancing the engagement point.
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2010
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  15. pjw
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    pjw Member

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    [Dec 14, 2010]
    That is a really good point, which is not something im looking to do.

    Went out to do this tonight in the fading light and found i had to remove the cowling to the clutch. If it works ill take some photos and post a howto.
    #14

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