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Discussion in 'A3/S3/Sportback (8P Chassis)' started by S3_Jacko, Dec 3, 2013.
What year is your a4?? Would mine be the same as yours?
Wow, the dual mass flywheel on there is £247... Its on eurocarparts for £360 odds... Just goes to show eh? Its a shame they dont do the sachs clutch aswell... Although, Sachs direct are doing 8% off deal at the moment down to £500... â¬605
Decent site 100 quid cheaper than anywhere else I've found.
Desert storm you having yours done?
A mate with a sooped Scooby today asked me if i'd done the gearbox oil recently..?
He reckons by doing this it might be worth a shout 1st? Thoughts?
Don't really want to take over the OP's thread but mine is a 2008 08 plate Avant with the CAPA engine so probably the same.
It has 75K on it and I do get a slight judder occasionally when pulling away and reversing but reading on the net this is quite common and does not necessarily mean there is an issue with the clutch.
it's partly down to the design of the dual plate clutch and the build up of dust from the friction material within the clutch and on the shaft which runs in a tube.
It will be remapped and have the DPF removed in the next few months so I was looking around just in case I need to change the clutch. One of the reasons I bought a B8 3.0 TDI was because of the clutch arrangement. A single plate 240mm clutch will not take much more than 550Nm unless the pressure plate is really uprated and the friction material is pretty grippy.
Both of these would make for a very poor OE clutch with a heavy pedal and an on /off action.
Switching to a twin plate 228mm clutch gives you the effective torque handling ability of 2 228mm clutches and conservatively that would be around 650Nm, but probably nearer to 700Nm.
I would change the clutch and flywheel myself if it needed doing. Changed over the gearbox in the Passat last year from a 5 speed to a 6 speed and changed the clutch / DMF. The Audi doesn't look any more difficult. The Gearbox on the Passat was 75 KG, I suspect the Audi may be a little heavier.
Sorry to hear about this mate when you messaged me last night.
If it's only just slipping could Mark perhaps ask the lads at Shark Performance to tone down the torque delivery a tad for you to suit, still giving you the same peak power higher up the revs but not the almighty whack of torque right at the lower end that the map currently delivers (and what is clearly causing the clutch to slip)?
Also, what's this about the 8p3 having an uprated clutch as standard? I've never read this! So my 2010 S3 has a stronger clutch from the factory?
yeah Muzza... I was reading some threads last night and apparently Audi had switched the oem clutches from LUK to Sachs on 2008/09 not so sure on year... I'm not too sure bout it all, was just quoting things i'd read last night when doing a bit of investigating....
That could also be a possibility that, toning the torque down to suit.. I suppose thats the benefits of getting the map done at any hq instead of dealers, because all these things could be tested and tweeked at the time, i'll have a chat with Mark and see what we can do...
i'm just about to take the car a test drive just now to work out exactly what and when the suspected slipping is happening... So i'll update the thread once i'm back...
Hi mate, the thing is that both prefacelift and facelift clutch setups on s3 are on their edges. They were not originaly designed for s3 (I think it goes on almost every engine spec on a3 line ).
Doing wot on higher gears from lower rpms resoults in clutch slip. Also launching the car will also induce clutch slip. If you take it easy of the line and rev it through gears should help. Mine was remmaped with 10000km's, and i got slip if i wot it from lower revs. Changed driving style and the clutch lasted another 15000km's on stage 2 and another 15000km's on stage 2+.
Went for loba sachs kit as i didn't want to worry about it, and wanted to use stage 2+ potential.
I would recommend trying to drive it without floring it from lower revs in high gears and seeing if it does help.
You probably already know the answer to that .
Regarding the gearbox oil - I recently asked Midland VW to do mine while it's in for a service but they said it's supposed to be a sealed box and shouldn't need doing.
When mine gets mapped I know I'll need to factor in a new clutch at some point in the future. The bad thing is it'll mean it will handle more power which I'll just need to try and get.
Yeh, my usual fetish for taking cars apart came in to play as usual . Straightforward job to be fair just time consuming.
All gearboxes these days are "sealed for life" still doesn't hurt to get it done. Doesn't take 20 minutes the fill and drain plugs are very accessible to be fair, the worst part is the oil is VAG only and about £60 for the 3l you need (box takes 2.3).
Gutted for you having read this mate. Mine has also started slipping, mine is chronic when the cars cold which doesn't really matter to much as I'm tootling it anyway. When its warm it seems to behave in every gear aside from 6th. Here's my 2 pence on what I've found and what I'm doing about it:
Started looking at standard items, best prices I found were:
R/bearing - £46+VAt (TPS)
Valeo Clutch kit - £175inc
LUK clutch kit - £152inc
Standard LUK Flywheel - £247
At this point I thought it best to actually have a look into my car properly, I'm pretty sure my DMF is fubar as well or at least on its way so I decided that a DMF was a must. Fitting costs aren't something I need to consider luckily enough so I looked into other prices. Spoke to Brodster also. I plan for Stg1 in march time and Stg2+ at the back end of next year which lead me to these prices:
LOBA/Sachs Stg 2 - £880
R/bearing - £46+VAT (TPS)
Extras, bolts oils etc - £80 (rough) (TPS)
Ill be doing the above, I cant justify putting standard items back on the car. I'm more peeved that I managed to save some money over the last 2 months so was ready to go and get my front bumper and wheels sorted.
The way I view it is I really don't want to take the box off more than once so I'm making sure its going to last!
I've not driven a car with this engine in that's had a SMF conversion, however I've driven a few other cars that have had it done and a few lug drive clutch units I really cant imagine the chatter to be that bad.
Bear in mind that the bolts alone are £80-90 to do a "proper" job and replace all the ones that are stated to do (which are almost all). No oil needed as you don't need to drain the box.
Right guys thought i'd update the thread after taking the car out a 100 mile test drive tonight lol....
1st off really good news, the car is 100% better than it was last night (I don't get it??)... now i'm not an expert on mapping and this is the 1st car i've mapped, so its all new to me... Brodster did say that there was gonna be some settling in period with the car, and he wasnt joking..
Tried all sorts of driving styles tonight and the clutch slip is all but non-existent now... Was changing the driving style up, revving a wee bit longer through gears, progressive acceleration mixed with hard acceleration...
Progressive accelerating: No slips at all..
Hard accelerating: From 3rd to 4th.. coming on at 4k rpm there was a slight slip from 4500rpm to 5000rpm on rolling boost, then caught again straight away which isn't a big deal when you look at the speedo and your touching 90... the same was said between 4th and 5th in the same rev range... but again this was ripping it, pedal to the floor stuff, easily worked round! (Grammar?)
Also done some clutch drag to test.. yesterday this was slipping like crazy, went from 60 to 80 on the motorway, foot down from 6th and no slip at all... nice smooth acceleration.....
All-in-all so much happier tonight and can start to relax now... Clutch is still on the cards, but at least now its not so much a priority and I can put money by for it now... Car is still like a rocket compared with standard and perfectly driveable ... The intake flutter has reduced dramatically, so thats all good....
i'm still getting that intermittent clicking noise coming from around the backbox area and dont know what it is?.. Clicks away on idle, give it a sight rev then it disappears? anyone got any ideas?
Boydie.. these are the pics I promised, not the best but all I have... having looked at them again, I must say, I do prefer the matt black...
I hate to break it to you but don't get your hopes up, that is all normal behaviour of when a clutch starts to slip. It will only get worse over time, if you nurse it it will take longer if you don't it won't.
No I know that... Clutch is still getting replaced, but at least this now gives me more time than I thought.. I thought that I was looking at over a £1k bill over the xmas period just to get it acceptably driveable... I'm not excited or estatic with the results tonight, but i'll tell you i'm a lot happier tonight than I was last night... Worlds end material lol
How long did it take out of interest mate?
The clicking noise if coming from the backbox area will be a seized flapper valve in the left hand exhaust tip. Have heard it lots of times and they are prone to failing due to build of carbon and grime off the road.
Glad the clutch is getting better Jacko......keep me updated please mate.
Jacko - thanks very much mate, helping me with my decision lol what way did you do the lower splitter?
Took the full bumper off Boydie so I could get right underneath it and in about it
Yeah but did you paint it, wrap it or plasti coat it?
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Just plasti coated it mate... I always want to leave the option of returning the full car back to standard if I want...