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Discussion in 'In-Car Entertainment' started by bigblokey0, Apr 25, 2007.
i got about £100 to spend on a sub ive been told about 12" pioneer subs apprently they are the don
ive found this legacy sub on ebay any thoughts on these ?
Do you want a dual voice coil sub?
TBH it's the quality of the amp & the enclosure that's more important.
If your amp is stable at 2ohms then you could wire the VC's in parallel on that model to give you a 2 ohm load.
what does a dual voice coil do mean and what does it do ?
my current amp is a jbl gto 75.2 but i was going to get a better one in the future so it could run a 1000w + sub
Every speaker has a voice coil, it's the bit that transfers the power from the amp to the cone of the speaker. And the bit that breaks if you push too much power through it i.e. a blown speaker means the voice coil has fractured or broken.
The VC also dictates impedance of the speaker i.e. the electrical resistance it presents to the circuit. Dual VC subs were developed to allow more flexibility in how the sub can be wired up i.e. each VC can be powered by a seperate amp, or a seperate channel on the same amp, or wired in series to present a higher impedance or wired in parallel to present a lower impedance.
Really you'd only ever want to drive it as either a 4 ohm or 2 ohm load on the amp. A 2ohm load means you can get close to twice the umph from it using the same amount of power, but the amp has to be designed to be used with a 2 ohm load otherwise it'll shutdown or burn out.
TBH most amps are not stable at 2ohm when bridged, but can drive 2 ohm loads unbridged. So with your amp it's rated at 2 x 97wrms @14.4v into 4 ohms but the power jumps up to 2 x 145wrms into 2 ohms. But as it's not stable at 2 ohms bridged then there's little point buying a DVC sub.
If you want huge power then you won't do much better than the Alpine SWX-1042D's that CAD have on special offer - £150 with 1000wrms capability. Alpine are hugely under spec'd as well so it'll take even more power than that.
Steer clear of any sub or amp that only lists peak power. Peak power means nothing, RMS is the only meaningful indication of power.
£150 is out my range at the mo i thought alpine where a good brand as they make great headunits but im told they dont make good subs
this seems ok ?
Yes Alpine are shyte but some no brand item on ebay is perfect! WTF?
As I said steer clear of anything quoting peak power - it's for the Saxo boys innit?
Alpine are not the best on the market granted, but you won't do better on that budget. If you want to pay £500-£900 for a sub then there are better brands out there.
so can i get a 12" 1000w rms dual voice coil sub for £100 or even better a 15" ?
this is the sub thats been recomended to me
Sounds like you're really going for looks/dB's rather than anything approaching quality so I'll bow out here
sorry forgot the link
what amp will be driving this please ???
you dont have a to have a sub with silly silly numbers printed on the side for it to sound good bigger is not allways better
heres a few things on ebay at the moment which when powered correctly
and in the correct box will sound very very good
this is an old school classic subwoofer which is sought after nowadays if you can get ti for anywhere near that price its an absoloubt bargain
halve decent sub for not a lot of money
jl audio should work well if powered correctly one of the older models but still good
this is an all in one (built in amp) but if you can get it for the right money then its a bargain will have to be collected but anything under £100 for this is a steal even with a trip out in the car to fetch it
now im a bit confused all them subs have low watts rms ie. 250w i allready have two 15" 250w subs and get told there **** wattage
big bloke, the pioneer subs you are looking at (SPL3004 1000w RMS) i have 2 of those in my a4 (used to have four but got too heavy)... they sound crazy! the bass is really clear, and if you look around you should be able to get them for around 85 pounds. you'l need a decent amp to power them though...
with these pioneers, u can pump them loud, and they'll take it, im running two of them at 1 ohm and have a wcc amp powering them which is 2350 watts rms at 1 ohm so they do go very very loud. unless you wana spend 400-500 for alpines or kickers, these are the best out at the moment in my opinion...
85 delivered that is....
there is a big differance between quantity and quality
if you want your system loud then buy the pioneers at £85 but youll also need a good amp to power them properly and a box which is big enough to house the woofer or woofers however they are nowhere near the quality of the others i have mentioned earlier
so if you want quality which can go quite loud when you thrash it stick to the ones ive mentioned
r.m.s rating on a sub means very little as theres lots of other variables like sensitivity which makea huge differance
r.m.s rating on an amp means everything do not take any notice of peak power,max power,max output readings or any other bullshit
ive read reviews on the sub and they have all been good i think im going to get it and then look for a mono amp to run it
As people have said its nothing to do with the wattage of the sub!
is better to have a lower power sub than the power of the amp that way you get more controll over the sub!
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so what then keep my two 250w 15" kicker comps ?
it depends on you
you need to make up your mind what you want from the system
you allready have some gear so why are you changing it ??? (bigger numbers dont mean it sounds better)
do you want it so loud you cant hear yourself think (in which case keep the fifteens put them in a ported box tuned at the correct frequency and buy a good amp to drive them correctly)
do you want clear accurate reproduction and something that resembles music as opposed to road noise (in which case buy a single 10 or 12 in a sealed box with a capable amp )
the only rms ratings you should take notice of are those on an amplifier
the ones on a sub mean ****
well i was happy with my current setup it will make your head hurt and you can feel the air in the car move but when i mentioned they are only 250w all i got was there ****
if you want to impress your friends then buy what they recommend!
personally i'd go for a quailty 8/10/12" sub in a sealed box.
Bare in mind you'll be massively under powering that 1000wrms sub with your amp, could even damage it.
i know that but i can buy a bigger amp if i get a bigger sub its really difficult to know what to do ive got the world and his wife all telling me different things what i want out of my system is clear sound but with bass that will make your ears bleed if it wanted to
im sorry but what you want takes a lot of money and a lot of space
go here http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=28
join up for free and then post what subs you have and what kind of sound you would like the guys in the spl streetbass section should be able to sort you out with the correct sized box as well specifications
what you will need is a serous amp to be able to drive them correctly
just because some marketing prick decided to put 250 watts on your sub doesnt mean if you put more than that through them that they will blow up
the old cerwin vega subs were rated at 500 wrms yet when tested to destruction they managed to take 4.5 kw before the coils went
9 times there reccomendation
you are more likely to kill a sub with too little power which causes the amplifier outputs to clip
thats another reason i chose my kickers allthough rated at 250w rms they came 1st in a mag when they tested them to destruction they went well above there peak rating
if you are still thinking about going for these, make sure you get an amp that is 1 ohm stable. i had one advertised in the classifieds if you're interested its the same as what im running atm but never used!
well having talked to the guys on talk audio they have advised me to keep my subs as they are not half bad and just buy a more powerfull amp so ill stick with what i got and just get an amp that runs 500wrms @2 ohm