Can anyone help me out with vag com results?

takworldwide

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As above, Pretty new to vagcom, i have been told to measure blocks 002, 015, 016. i am just wondering how to decipher them as i have nothing to compare results with. can anyone spot anything out of the ordinary?

The reason i have measured the blocks is that i have an intermittent flat spot, not sure if its missing?or boost leak?

my car deatails are:

A3 1.8t Agu 2000, stage 1 remap

Results as follows:

screenshot20090912at123.png[img]
 
Do a check on 25 aswell as the label file seems to show this as the charge air pressure readings so might show if its got an issue with the specified & actual boost levels.
 
40g/s at 6000rpm is a clue mate

MAF aint very well... seriously underreading

Are these driving it or just revving it?
 
Do a check on 25 aswell as the label file seems to show this as the charge air pressure readings so might show if its got an issue with the specified & actual boost levels.

ME3.x ecu on AGU does not have MAP sensor so its blind as to produced boost.
 
AGU label file seems to show this MB, are there multitude of ecu versions on AGU as if so one would assume the label file with this MB covers other ecu's then mate, oh well learn something new everyday

I have read few posts of yours & you seem very knowledgable of these things, whats your background or just like to tinker as me?
 
AGU are non dbw cars, early 1.8t's. 1999/2000 change over year
Me3.x ecu on AGUs from the factory
no map sensors, no wideband etc
more limited options with these generation.

snapshot of my non dbw folder with Me3.8 ecu numbers as a ref.
non-dbw-me3.8-ecu.JPG


I own/run Badger5 Ltd, and specifically work on VAG cars, building big turbo conversions with 1.8t's being a speciality. tinkering hobby turned business... nearly 10 years ago now

www.badger-5.com is my out of date website (updates pending soon hopefully)

Big turbo conversions, mapping, race prep, all the usual things.. Custom fabrication etc all supporting the builds I do.

regards
bill
 
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thanks for the responses guys,

i just revved at a stand still upto redline. i have read that the MAF reading should be around 170 at 6000rpm(is this correct?). Funny thing is i have just replaced the MAF last week(got it from GSF, genuine bosch, not cheap crappy one).

So what other blocks should/can i measure?

I take it the agu engine has some missing modules that can't be measured.

does anyone know what voltage the coils should be running at?and if they look out of balance?

thanks again guys any help is greatly appreciated.

Tom.
 
thanks for the responses guys,

i just revved at a stand still upto redline. i have read that the MAF reading should be around 170 at 6000rpm(is this correct?). Funny thing is i have just replaced the MAF last week(got it from GSF, genuine bosch, not cheap crappy one).

So what other blocks should/can i measure?

I take it the agu engine has some missing modules that can't be measured.

does anyone know what voltage the coils should be running at?and if they look out of balance?

thanks again guys any help is greatly appreciated.

Tom.

you should log maf when driving under load and do a 3rd gear pull from 2krpm to as high as you are prepared to rev it to then see what under load airflow you get. no load airflow is'nt a number I can comment on.

block 002 gives you your airflow.. 013 from memory gives timing pull on Me3.8 (my memorys playing up on me.. and 003 gives air temps

regards
bill
 
Sorry to bring up an old thread again, i dont know what it is but my car doesnt feel like its pulling as well as it used to, if anyone knows alittle or alot about logging and trying to decipher the results it would be great you could shed some light on the subject. below is the lastest log i did this morning.

many thanks

Tom.
vagcom291010.png
 
Thanks for the reply dave,

i have recently replaced my thermo and temp sender. any idea how i can solve it??? does my mass flow seem low to you for a r-tech stage 1 remap??
 
why do you say its too hot dave? coolant looks ok and ait's are ok too.. Am I looking at the right log?
too much timing pull for my liking but airflows decent (its remapped is'nt it)

is there any oil in the throttle body or charge pipework?
seeing this a bit now on some cars which are injesting a lot of oil which is reducing the fuels octane rating severely, which in turn is causing pinking and ecu to pull back.
 
hi bill, cheers for the post. its remapped. is the timing pull serious?(i take it thats what the "knock reg" values are? she seems to be eating alittle more oil after i had the oil strainer cleaned out.

Thanks again fellas
 
ewwww..... pulling 9's!

The block numbers don't correlate with blocks I know of... Group 003 looks more like block 004 and timing pull is normally block 020...

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/m_blocks/

Anyhoo... IAT's look ok enough, 34 deg max under load during the run but the timing pull is dangerously high... 9's is ridiculous

I also notice that (assuming it is block 004) the cooling temp value is all over the place... does your water temp gauge jump about a bit? you say you have changed the temp sender but tbh looking at that it seems something is still wrong...

Have seen a couple of cars recently where excessive oil is being blown into the intake either from a heavily breathing engine (worm rings etc) or turbo oil seals... remove the hose from the throttle body in the first instance and if there is a lot of oil there I would say the prob you have here is oil diluting the fuel octane causing the timing pull and loss of performance... whats the mileage of the engine?

<tuffty/>
 
Hi Tuffy,

Shes done about 105000. would the timing pull damage the engine in anyway? temp gauge stays bang on 90c but does take awhile to warm up 10mins or so. if i clean the throttle body and pipework all should be well?
 
Mine is pulling 9's high up the revs. I had no oil in the throttle body or in the drivers side SMIC. So think it is me being a tight asse and not using 99 octane fuel. Will find out in the next few days when i fill up and report back...
 
whoops i forgot to say before my exhaust is blowing abit would this contribute to the high timing pull, i've got alot to sort out tomorrow!

Cheers for your comments fellas
 
I've checked the throttle body like tuffy said.there wasn't that much oil that I thought there might of been.
After cleaning the throttle body out,I thought I'd check closer the turbo,easier place was the pancake pipe under the driver wheel.

The pancake pipe wasn't that tight on but once removed was full of oil? How has oil got here?is this normal? Once clean I went to but the pipe back on and noticed there was oil dripping from both pipes connected to the intercooler and turbo.again is this normal?it seem excessive to me!

I ran out of time trying to clean pipework as I had to do injector seals, new rear discs and service from hell where I snapped the fuel line doing the fuel filter (what the he'll are those clips about) and I'm sure the people that did an oil change for me(awesome Gti) has stripped sump as the nut isn't tightening up properly.

Sorry rant over. I will try to do some logging today to see if get better results. Does anyone know where the oil would be coming from?

Thanks Tom
 
hi bill, cheers for the post. its remapped. is the timing pull serious?(i take it thats what the "knock reg" values are? she seems to be eating alittle more oil after i had the oil strainer cleaned out.

Thanks again fellas

if its pulling 9's thats too much yes. higher octane fuel or less timing... else you do risk some detonation damage

oil is probably out of the turbo itself or the breather system into the tip
if there's a lot of it being drawn thru the charge pipework, its knocking your effective octane down significantly, so promoting det early, hence 9's on cf would be apparent.

i have seen 3 1.8t's suffer this in the last 6 weeks.. severe oil consumption.
turbo and or worn out engine (rings)
 
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turbo and or rings ouch! do you know how much it would be to replace the rings???i think a k03s is in order!

thanks again bill