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Broken window? Window clips? Window regulator? or motor? Guide inside

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by cjsuk, Jul 25, 2012.

  1. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    [Jul 25, 2012]
    As promised here’s a sort of definitive guide to fixing just about all window related problems, the guide is officially for replacing a snapped regulator cable but to do the cable you have to remove just about all components barring the pulleys.
    Please be aware I forgot to take some pictures, and it may seem vague in parts as I’m **** at explaining things lol but just plz ask if you’reunsure of anything
    This was my particular problem:
    [​IMG]


    And this is my replacement from a recovery yard:



    [​IMG]

    NOTE: this was done on a 2001 AUM 1.8 t I presume it’s the same for most models of a3 up till 2003.
    If you c@ck things up, it’s not my fault! J
    1. Screws on the door, pictured below are the screw locations. For this you will need a normal pozi screwdriver and a small flatdriver.
    There are 5 screws you need totake out in total, three of them are visible and 2 are hidden.
    Unscrew all visible screws usingthe pic below as reference.

    [​IMG]


    The 2 hidden screws are behind the handle below the window switches (the two arrows on the above pic show the location) there is piece of plastic trim (pictured below) that needs to be removed. To remove undo the retaining screw pozi then get the small flat and carefully prise it out so far then just give it a tug.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Then remove the 2 hidden screws:

    [​IMG]


    At this point you will have one hand on the trim trying to stop it from falling! But just let go it won’t go anywhere! It’s hooked on.

    To remove the trim just lift orpush from bottom (the whole panel is on plastic hooks), it may seem like it snot budging, just keep patient wiggle and jiggle a bit and it will lift out.

    I forgot a couple of pictures here so bear with me.

    The panel will not lift out fully as the door lever cable and all electrics will be connected.

    First the door lever cable: Pullback the foam flap at the top, you will see the cable is hooked on the lever.To remove, using a small flat screwdriver remove the small metal retaining clipwhat’s holding the plastic guide. When the clip is removed the guide will liftout and you can un hook cable from the handle.

    The electrics: Easy, remove thefoam bung to expose the connectors. All the plugs are the usual unclip and pulltype connectors.

    Congratulations! Your door trimis now off (I hope)

    Below is a picture of all the connectors, pull cable that you have just removed.

    The other bits circled need to bedisconnected.


    NOTE: The red square is where there is a hidden connector (for the wing mirror) just pull out the plastic then the foam to expose the connector and disconnect.


    [​IMG]



    All plugs and cable retainers inthe above pic need to be removed.

    Once this is done you are ready to undo the sub frame.

    The sub frame consists of the window, window regulator ( and components), motor and wing mirror.

    Below is a picture of the location of the hex screws you will be removing (the 2 blue arrows I will explain later):

    [​IMG]


    You will need a size 40 (I think) torx key or bit with ratchet and a marker penor tipex.

    First take your marker (or tipex)and mark all the wedges, lugs (blue arrows) and bolts for their position, Ifyou don’t mark anything, your sub framewill be way out when you have fitted everything back together (you have been warned).

    Undo the 4 bolts arrowed in yellow and remove wedges put all bolts and wedges in a safe place, don’t worryt he sub frame will not drop or fall out due to a lug at either side.

    There is a piece of rubber top left (no photo) with 2 small press in lugs, undo the 2 lugs and then you’reready to lift the sub frame.

    The sub frame is surprisingly light, dis lodge the frame by wiggling it a little then lift about 3 inch then pull the end closest to the car out also lift that side pretty high so the door pin goes through the little hole on the opposite side.

    Congratulations! Your sub frameis now removed and should look like this:
    [​IMG]

    And your door like this………
    d


    [​IMG]
    Now Place the subframe on a nice soft surface so the motor is facing you, use a t30 to undo the 3 motor retaining bolts:

    [​IMG]


    Once undone remove the bolts and pull the motor away from the frame:

    [​IMG]

    That’s it for that side so flip your frame over (carefully).
    You should see the famous clips that break on either side of window , using a t25 undo the screws holding the clips together:
    [​IMG]

    Once the screw and washer are removed, pull the top of the clip and it will open up:
    Do the same for the other clip at this point if your window is up just push it down.
    When you’re window is down and the clips are open pull the glass up towards you from the left hand side, It looks like you can’t remove it, but the rubber guide is very soft and allows the glass to release from it.
    Now place the glass to one side:

    [​IMG]


    And you will be left with this:

    At this point if you just wantedto remove or replace the window only, then you’re done replacement is just a reversal of what you have just done! Well done you!

    [​IMG]

    Now remove the top part of the clips and put them to one side.
    [​IMG]

    Now remove the blue part of the clip (could be a different colour).
    To remove the blue part (no pictures) just lift it from the left skywards, and slide off the rail to the right. (Opposite for the other side).
    Then you will see the cable attached to it:
    [​IMG]

    To remove this there are notches on the side of the clip that the cable sits in, guide the cable to the end ofthe plastic notch and just pull (this can be a lill hard so take your time and don’t break the clip!).
    [​IMG]

    If you just wanted to replace thedreaded clips, then well done, put your new bits on in reverse order to what’sbeen shown. It may be a good Idea to grease all moving parts/runners/cableswhilst all is off.
    Now the regulator, I could not for the life of me work out how to route the continual cable without drilling arivet out from the regulator mount. If you’re aware of a way please correct me.
    So to start I used a 10mm drill bit to drill out the one rivet:

    [​IMG]

    Next with clips removed I began removing the cable from the pulleys and replacing with the new cable, you will notice a notch on the pulley wheels:

    [​IMG]


    Line up your cable with the notch and pull the cable back whilst turning the wheel then your cable should be released.
    Dothe reverse to fit the new cable (if youdon’t have a snapped cable, undo the regulator from its bracket which should release tension, example below, using a t25)

    [​IMG]


    Here is a picture of how the cable should run:
    [​IMG]


    The red circle was where mine had snapped the pulley and cable had signs of rust and un lubricated.

    Opposite side:
    [​IMG]


    To fully remove the cable and regulator,do as mentioned above then remove cable the 1 cable tie and flip up the 2 metal retaining tabs:
    [​IMG]


    As mentioned above my cable had snapped so removal was simple but if your cable is in one piece then this is where the drilling out ofthat rivit comes in, which you will work out.

    To put your new regulator on feed all cables through this gap:
    [​IMG]


    once you get the regulator the right way round and thecables through the above gap one of the cables will need to be pulled throughthe gap created by the drilled out rivet:
    [​IMG]

    Now that’s done run all cables round the pullys, put anew cable tie where the old one was and push the metal cable retaining tabs down.

    On the last pully it my be very tight, I used a thick blade screw driver to manipulate the cable round the pully.

    Now find a nut, bolt and a couple of washers:
    [​IMG]

    And use it to replace where the rivit was:
    [​IMG]

    That’s it! Your done!
    Remember grease every part inc cables

    You may notice when you put your clips back on, theyare not level to remedy this just push them up and down at the sametime a few times and this will bring them level.
    Also the first few up’s and down’s may sound like the cable is straining, the sound is just the cable inside the regulator sorting it’sself out.
    Whilst the glass was out I cleaned it and this is whatyou should end up with:
    [​IMG]

    Now push the window up to make sure all is ok



    All you need to do now is install it on to your doorplug in all cables etc replace trim and your ready to stick your arm out in the sun!
    This is my 1st guide and yes it's a bit odd in areas but hey ho.

    Hope it's ok for you all and answers some peoples questions :)

    Thanks

    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 20, 2014
    #1
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  3. Alex C
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    Alex C Well-Known Member

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    [Jul 25, 2012]
    Your a gent, thanks :icon_thumright:
    #2
  4. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    [Jul 25, 2012]
    Not a problem :)
    #3
  5. Dani_B19
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    Dani_B19 Audi-sports own special child.

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    [Jul 25, 2012]
    Legend mate, i now know who to call when mine fck up haha :).
    #4
  6. Nick090884
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    Nick090884 Member

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    [Jul 25, 2012]
    Lovely little guide mate ! Really detailed and the pictures are **** hot too !
    #5
  7. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    [Jul 25, 2012]
    Thanks guys, I honestly thought everyone would think it was **** lol
    #6
  8. voorhees
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    voorhees Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    [Mar 11, 2013]
    Not at all,good guide and stickied :salute:
    #7
  9. Prawn
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    Prawn My other car is a MINI!!!!

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    [Mar 11, 2013]
    pictures are dead :( I need to do this on mine as it's finally broken!
    #8
  10. Alex C
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    Alex C Well-Known Member

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    [Mar 11, 2013]
    I see the pictures fine
    #9
  11. voorhees
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    voorhees Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    [Mar 11, 2013]
    Nick has connection issues he sees them now :salute:
    #10
  12. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    [Mar 12, 2013]
    omg i made it to the stikies I feel honoured lol
    #11
  13. voorhees
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    voorhees Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    [Mar 12, 2013]
    Glad you feel that way Carl,just don't make a habit of it as Tuffty will get jealous. :)
    #12
  14. cjsuk
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    cjsuk Member

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    [Mar 12, 2013]
    Summer's coming, no "othre half this time" and ill be out of hibernation lmao hmmm, sorry tuffty, ill need to cure the bordem lol
    #13
  15. Lemon S3
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    Lemon S3 Alex

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    [Mar 13, 2013]
    My drivers side went a couple of years ago, couldn't get hold of just the cable and didn't want to fork out for a whole regulator so I just stole the passengers side so I can actually go through Mcdonalds drive through until I get a cable from somewhere. There's load of cables for sale on ebay for about £15 that state they're for A3 and S3's but the A3's are smaller and won't fit S3's, so don't buy them. No one seems to do them for S3's and no one that's breaking an S3 wants to sell just the cable so for the time being, I have a vice grip behind my passenger door card holding my window up lol.
    #14
  16. Pmol66
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    Pmol66 Member

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    [Mar 18, 2013]
    My drivers sides gone. How can i tell what needs replacing? I want to figure that out before taking it apart.
    I can hear the motor spinning when i push the button but no window movement. Would i be right in thinking its a cable?
    #15
  17. Lemon S3
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    Lemon S3 Alex

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    [Mar 18, 2013]
    Yeah it sounds like your cable has broken somewhere, mine sheered in the regulator wheel and jammed with the window open halfway. You should be able to see the problem if you take the door card off which literally takes 30 seconds.
    #16
  18. Pmol66
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    Pmol66 Member

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    [Mar 18, 2013]
    Oh ok. Thanks!
    Did you manage to get a cable for yours in the end. The drive through thing is a bit of a pain isnt it lol
    #17
  19. OrkneyS3
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    OrkneyS3 Member

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    [Apr 19, 2014]
    Sorry to revive a thread but the passenger window on my 8l is being a pain, it goes down no bother but it only comes up part of the way up then goes down u have to use brute force and have someone holding the switch in to get it up, I'm just wondering what's causing that?

    Chris
    #18
  20. OrkneyS3
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    OrkneyS3 Member

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    [Apr 19, 2014]
    Sorry to revive a thread but the passenger window on my 8l is being a pain, it goes down no bother but it only comes up part of the way up then goes down u have to use brute force and have someone holding the switch in to get it up, I'm just wondering what's causing that?

    Chris
    #19
  21. s3mad_dude
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    s3mad_dude Noggies ruuuule!

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    [Apr 19, 2014]
    I had this on my old pre-facelift S3 (problem sounds identical) and for me the green clip that is referred to in this article was broken. The part has since been revised so if you buy a replacement clip it should be of better quality.
    #20
  22. OrkneyS3
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    OrkneyS3 Member

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    [Apr 20, 2014]
    Thanks mad dude Il order up a set of clips and get stuck in when I get home.

    Chris
    #21
  23. GlennP83
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    GlennP83 Member

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    [May 5, 2014]
    I recently replaced the cable and the window works again well sort of. Now when I give the button a quick flick to get the window to automatically go up, it will go up but then come down a bit which is really annoying! Can anyone shed a bit of light as to why this is happening? Cheers
    #22

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