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Brakes advice

Discussion in 'A4/S4 forum(B5 Chassis)' started by AR-rkon, Aug 24, 2012.

  1. AR-rkon
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    AR-rkon AllROOOOOOOOOAD!!! Staff Member Moderator Regional Rep

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    [Aug 24, 2012]
    Ok guys, got some 312 calipers and carriers, about to strip clean and paint them.

    However, one thing still eludes me...

    DISCS! What would people reccomend, thats reasonably priced (upto £60 say), helps braking and that looks good? Was think of the likes of drilled/grooved/dimpled etc... Thoughts?
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  3. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 24, 2012]
    I've just bought some standard disks for mine.

    FRONT BRAKE DISC AUDI A4 (B6) 2.5 V6 TDI (FITTED 312MM DISC) 01-04 | eBay

    Those infact.

    Disks do little for performance. Drilled holes make the disks prone to cracking and the holes block up with brake dust. Grooves make the brakes noisey.

    Spend your money on the pads. DS2500 or Mintex 1144/1155 or something like that.

    I rebuilt the calipers with seals and new pistons from biggred after electrolytically derusting them, and then painting them, caliper carriers are currently being electrolytically derusted and they'll get a coat of paint too. Also got a set of braided lines to complete the job, and a litre of ATE Super Blue.
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  4. Bradderz_1988
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    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    [Aug 24, 2012]
    Im running these ok once bedded in

    Item no' - 110773483183
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  5. Oranoco
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    Oranoco Well-Known Member

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    [Aug 24, 2012]
    #4
  6. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 24, 2012]
    Thats a bloody good price for a pair.

    But still they'll probably be noisy AND crack :p
    #5
  7. AR-rkon
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    AR-rkon AllROOOOOOOOOAD!!! Staff Member Moderator Regional Rep

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    [Aug 25, 2012]
    Cheers dude, was looking at those, but wondered if anyone was running them.
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  8. Bradderz_1988
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    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    [Aug 25, 2012]
    They are a bit juddery at first personally i would removed the coating on the pad surface before fitting as it seamed to gather in the grooves/holes but othe than that i can fault them seams spongy now and again but im running cheapo mintex redbox pads but they do seam to hold out when giving it some havent come across brake fade with them yet so disc seam to be keeping them temp down a bit.
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  9. AR-rkon
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    AR-rkon AllROOOOOOOOOAD!!! Staff Member Moderator Regional Rep

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    [Aug 25, 2012]
    How would you recommend removing the coating?
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  10. Bradderz_1988
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    Bradderz_1988 Dont replace it, Upgrade it !!

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    [Aug 25, 2012]
    Possible by placing the pad contact part of the disc in thinners in a big enough bucket leaving it for 10 mins and keeping the hub part of the disc out so you keep the disc black on that part. Or try just wiping it with thinners but id say youd be like popeye afterwards lol
    #9
  11. Broken Byzan
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    Broken Byzan Photographic Moderator Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 25, 2012]
    Those discs are damned cheap. I paid more than that for plain discs. Like Kev said, spend the money on Pads, that's where the difference will be made
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  12. AR-rkon
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    AR-rkon AllROOOOOOOOOAD!!! Staff Member Moderator Regional Rep

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    [Aug 25, 2012]
    May go for them then, what pads then? Good performance and low dust?
    #11
  13. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 25, 2012]
    Ferodo Premier is well respected as a road pad. Thats what i've just baught for the avant.

    If you want something more track oriented then look at ds2500 or maybe mintex m1155
    #12
  14. Foxmeister
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    Foxmeister Fired Up!

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    [Aug 26, 2012]
    I had DS2500 on my Sierra Cosworth, best pad that i have used, cold, warm and track but does generate a bit of dust from it.
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  15. Foxmeister
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    Foxmeister Fired Up!

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    [Aug 28, 2012]
    Where you source the Premier from Kev? I can find rears for the 2.8 but not fronts so far???

    Whats the deal with the electrlicitttytyyytyt.......thingy removing rust from calipers etc, who does it and whats the costs involved?
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  16. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 28, 2012]
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  17. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 28, 2012]
    I did the electrolytic derusting myself.

    You need a big container of water, some scrap steel, and a battery charger.

    I'm going to do a proper write up when i'm finished, but heres some pics:

    Take one manky caliper
    http://friesian.lr90.org/gallery2/d/2886-3/P1040889.JPG

    Stick it in water bath for 24hrs
    http://friesian.lr90.org/gallery2/d/2871-3/P1040884.JPG

    Comes out like this:
    http://friesian.lr90.org/gallery2/d/2892-3/P1040891.JPG

    Rub with a wire brush and the rust just falls away:
    http://friesian.lr90.org/gallery2/d/2895-3/P1040892.JPG

    End result is something like this:
    http://friesian.lr90.org/gallery2/d/2913-3/P1040898.JPG
    http://friesian.lr90.org/gallery2/d/2910-3/P1040897.JPG


    I believe it works because rusting steel has three layers, the outermost crusty layer is what you see as the brown flaky ****, a sort of intermediate layer, then raw steel underneath. The process converts that intermediate layer back to proper steel, and the rust layer just falls off. You more or less just rub it over with a wire brush and most of the **** just comes right off.

    It usually takes a few goes, as the process is very "line-of-sight" so little bits get missed. Its not a fast process, but its very low effort and produces a good end result. My tank setup isnt ideal, the four steel rods in each corner would ideally be large steel plates, as it works better if you've got more surface area.
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  18. AR-rkon
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    AR-rkon AllROOOOOOOOOAD!!! Staff Member Moderator Regional Rep

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    [Aug 28, 2012]
    might have a crack at that myself, I assume you have to strip the caliper down to its bare body?
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  19. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 28, 2012]
    aye

    Have a read here for the finer details:

    ELECTROLYTIC RUST REMOVAL (ELECTROLYSIS)

    The sacrificial steel needs to be plain steel, not stainless and not zinc or aluminised. Also, triple check the polarity is correct!
    #18
  20. PARKER
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    PARKER New Member

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    [Aug 30, 2012]
    hi, can i ask a quick question to save you all from me starting another brake thread, would there be much to gain from fitting the ECS adaptors that space out the original calipers onto 332mm 2 piece discs as opposed to fitting 312 carriers and discs? i have a 1.8t fwd with a k04 and would like to take it on track (only now and again-nothing too serious). I am a bit lost with all the info out there, i was thinking braided lines, ds2500 and maybe the ECS adaptors but are the original calipers any good or do they really need to swapped out.
    thanks for any help.
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  21. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 30, 2012]
    I've had my car on track with completely stock brakes, road pads etc, and they held up alright. I could manage 5 or 6 hard laps before they started to overheat.

    Obviously thats with stock power, but i suspect 312's and good pads will be fine on track.

    If you want to upgrade to ~330mm disks, then personally, instead of buying expensive 2 piece disks etc, I'd look at using Merc 330mm disks, a 4pot caliper and have brackets made to suit.
    #20
  22. Chriscooke
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    Chriscooke Clueless!

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    [Aug 30, 2012]
    I managed to boil the fluid in my QTS a few weeks back on the road. It was a down hill stretch at the end of my favourite bit of road and I was pushing on a little ;)
    #21
  23. aragorn
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    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    [Aug 30, 2012]
    I only had pad fade on track, didnt boil the fluid until the very end when i parked up in the car park!
    #22

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