Boost gauge installation

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Have finally got round to completing an a pillar gauge pod for my S3. Im really happy with it so far next step is to cover it with headlining cloth, which won't be easy.
Next step will be to fit the gauge. Can anyone that has fitted a gauge give me any advice on the best routing for the cables and where to put the wiring through from the cabin to the engine compartment through the bulkhead? I was thinking of wiring it to the dash clock dimmer so i can dim the gauge to the same level as the clocks as well.
Thanks for any feedback
 
For covering the pillar, try leaving the padding on the back of the material. I tried it without and it didn't look as good as Prawns one.

Best way to route the pipe:
*Remove the fuse box cover and then remove the panel under the steering wheel via the t20 torx screws and popping it off each side of the wheel at the top of the panel.
*Remove the wipers and plastic drip tray and you will see this door. You can see my boost gauge pipe to the right (no need for silicone, that was because I ran a load of other wires through there for other stuff and the grommet couldn't be reused.)
Traction_Control_006.jpg

*Lift the lid and you'll see into the car (may have to remove the wiper mech but thats only a couple of bolts.
*then run the pipe with one of the looms into the engine bay and along to where you want it.

This in my opinion the best and neatest way. There are probably other ways to run the pipe.

My gauge is wired so it dims with the dash lights. You can find the correct wire at the back of the light switch. Also under there is a relay block which has all the power and earth feeds to need. To remove the light switch you push the main dial inwards and clockwise as if you were fitting a bayonet (spelling) light bulb.
 
There is also a grommet on the other side which drops into the passenger footwell by the pollen filter and you can route the pipe with the connections / loom from the battery. You could hardly see anything when mine was installed and worked well. Looking at HTCs way of doing it, it might be easier and it's a much shorter route to where you want to get!
 
Thanks to everyoe for all the usefull replys. I planned on keeping the foam on the roof lining when covering it as 1- its a pain in the **** to take it all off and 2 - the glue shouldn't seep through.
I'll check out the routing ideas later on today. Thanks again:salute:
 
Soooooo..........Went out to the car to start installing my boost gauge and straight away am hit by a conundrum. In the kit i have a vacume hose and a t piece connector. In the instructions it states that it should be fitted to the air pressure intake between the surge tank and the fuel regulator. Is this to be fitted in the pipe coming of the 3 bar fuel pressure regulator. Call me dumb!!! Can any one help me out with this or post pics of there connections for the boost gauge fitment???????
 
Yes you can tee into the pipe to the fuel pressure regulator.

Wak TT's guide (audi tt)

I personally plumbed into a pipe from under the inlet that runs straight to my DV. You may or may not be able to do this on yours as you have the n249 circuit which routes differently to my car.
 
How do you remove the platic drip tray? Looks like its conneceted to the window screen or is it just tight up and a case of remove the wipers and just pull at it?
 
How do you remove the platic drip tray? Looks like its conneceted to the window screen or is it just tight up and a case of remove the wipers and just pull at it?

Remove wiper arms (13mm socket), remove sealing strip that runs across the front of the plastic tray, ease (gently) out... its a push fit strip along the base of the windscreen but you have to hook it out from under the bonnet hinges (so to speak) and if you are too harsh it will crack the plastic so don't just yank it...

FPR is a good place to pick up boost feed as it has gone through intercoolers etc so will be the same pressure the MAP sensor is seeing.

<tuffty/>
 

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