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bleeding s3 brakes

Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by barters3, Jan 4, 2011.

  1. barters3
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    barters3 Member

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    [Jan 4, 2011]
    I know its done to death but i cant find a straight forward answer.

    I will be changing the brake fluid at the weekend, i will be helping my mate who is a mechanic.

    My knowledge on this is limited; am i right in thinking that it needs to be bled using a 'pressure bleeder'?
    Will we be able to successfully bleed the system doing it manually?
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  3. jojo
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    jojo Looking for Boost! Staff Member Moderator

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    [Jan 4, 2011]
    Everything you need to know should be in the thread below.

    http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-...7-just-bled-brakes-but-pedal-feels-worse.html
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  4. barters3
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    barters3 Member

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    [Jan 4, 2011]
    Cheers jojo. ill get one of those kits for what they cost.
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  5. Wheel Pimp
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    Wheel Pimp Member

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    [Jan 4, 2011]
    I'm doing mine tomorrow and I keep reading everyone running Vag-Com when bleeding the brakes!

    I know the two nipples on the MC have to be done but not too sure of V-C.
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  6. barters3
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    barters3 Member

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    [Jan 4, 2011]
    i dont think cycling the abs pump is essential when changing fluid. i could be wrong though.
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  7. jojo
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    jojo Looking for Boost! Staff Member Moderator

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    [Jan 4, 2011]
    I didn't cycle the ABS pump, the master cylinder only needs to be bled if you didn't bleed it with the pressure bleeder in the first place. If you use the classic two man method to bleed the system, the moment you start the car up and step on the brake pedal, the fluid in the brake reservoir drops quite a but, past the master cylinder, and air gets in. With the pressure bleeder, you can do it on your own, and it fills the brake reservoir whilst you are at it! Job done!
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  8. beachbuggy
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    beachbuggy Well-Known Member

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    [Jan 5, 2011]
    It's definately worth doing the ABS and the clutch if you're changing the fluid. The only reason for doing the ABS is that if you put new fluid in and not change the ABS fluid every time the ABS kicks in it'll mix up the old and new fluid. If there is any contaminate or the old fluid is past it then you will really be no better off. It's not a must but if you're going to do a job then it's worth doing properly.
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  9. barters3
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    barters3 Member

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    [Jan 5, 2011]
    Got a pressure bleeder today so il have a pop at the weekend.
    I dont have vagcom so il leave the abs pump.
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  10. barters3
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    barters3 Member

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    [Jan 7, 2011]
    can anybody advise whether this brake fluid would be any good. im planning on doing a couple of track sessions in the next year. i have some dot 4 that i can use, will it suffice?
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  11. Wheel Pimp
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    [Jan 8, 2011]
    To be honest i cooked my brake fluid on the road whilst having a play!

    I did however get some uprated fluid. Motul RBF660 i think mine is... Got it from Badger 5.
    I would change the fluid for one that has a higher temperature point if you're going to do some track days.

    Pulled from the motul site.
    '' RBF 660 race brake fluid is suitable for all types of hydraulic actuated-brake and clutch systems requiring a high quality, DOT 4 non-silicone synthetic fluid.
    Specially formulated to resist to high temperatures generated with racing actuated-brake (steel or carbon) and clutch systems, allowing you to minimize air entrance for brake cooling.

    This quality brake fluid is particularly suitable for the demands of racing and for those requiring a very high performance brake fluid temperature resistance in excess of 325C/615F.

    RBF660 also exceeds the DOT 5.1 and DOT 3 brake fluid standards, except for DOT5.1 viscosity at - 40°C (-40°F).

    RBF 660 is a 100% synthetic brake fluid from polyglycol bases.''

    Hope it helps....:racer:
    Last edited: Jan 8, 2011
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