best polish for ibis white

Thread: Recommended products/routine for white and light metallic/pearlescent Audi's

Have a look through this mate. Probably the best place to start. As for a wheel cleaner a lot of people rave about the bilberry stuff. Haven't used it myself yet though.
 
plus 1 for bilberry, it's awesome stuff, get mine from valet pro

depends on you budget, Autoglym SRP is a good polish that won't break the bank
 
thanks for that guys .......... will polish by hand and no budget not a problem only the best for my babe lol ........................
Have a chat with Juicy Jen then mate, she'll help you remove some of that surplus weight from your wallet! It's a slippery slope once you start the search for the ultimate shine.
 
I'll do it in a nice way though! So that you only get what you need to do the job required :)

If your polishing by hand then it is a very difficult job to remove the imperfections/swirls as you cannot generate enough heat to warm the panels up therefore the majority of products that are on the market place include fillers as well as light/mild abbrasives. The fillers mask the swirls/scratches to hide the marks on the car and then you need to seal the fillers in with either a wax or sealant to prolong coverage.

If you do not apply a wax or sealant then when your doing your maintainence washes the fillers will wash out. Note however even when you do wax/seal over a period of time the fillers will gradually come out and you'll need to repeat the process again.

You have a couple of options depending on whether you want to do it all in one stage or separate?

I would also advise using Iron X to remove the impurities from the bodywork and claying to ensure that the paint is completely stripped and a uber smooth surface to apply the new products to
 
thanks for that juicy jen ........ wont be nothing new women emptying my wallet lol.......... not sure if this makes a difference when u say about removing the impurities from the body work the car is only 4 months old so will i need to still do this....... all i want is for the car to stopping looking mint and the water beading on it all the time instead of standing on it ....
 
thanks for that juicy jen ........ wont be nothing new women emptying my wallet lol.......... not sure if this makes a difference when u say about removing the impurities from the body work the car is only 4 months old so will i need to still do this....... all i want is for the car to stopping looking mint and the water beading on it all the time instead of standing on it ....
Cars come straight from the showroom covered in sh*t mate, just from being shipped and then sat. My car wasn't new when I got it but it felt it after I'd clayed it. It's simple to do and doesn't take too long, and once it's been protected it doesn't need doing for a while.
 
As Paul mentions above even on a new car it is definitely worth doing. Another thing that White cars are susceptible to is tiny rust marks or yellow spots which is iron fall out from the environment. In fact all cars suffer but you just notice it more on White, the Iron X will help remove these easily but it can be done by claying too.

As it's a new car then I would recommend Chemical Guys Glossworkz Glaze which contains fillers to mask the swirls but also enhanced depth of paint. This does both the job of a polish and a glaze and also helps to add extra durability to your last stage products.

As for a wax or sealant at this time of year you want something that is going to offer you good durability so I'd say either Chemical Guys Jetseal 109; Supernatural Hybrid paste from Dodo Juice if you want something with a bit more durability then Collinite is good however you need to be careful with how long you leave it on as it has a fast curing time.

Our ibis RS3 is currently sitting with several coats of jetseal on as it was the easier to apply with my restricted mobility due to a broken foot! The beading is very nice I'll see if I can get a picture tomorrow for you
 
thanks for that Jen yes when i washed her on sunday i noticed the light iron spots........ so stage one iron x, stage2 chemical guys glossworkz then finally jetseal 109 or something similar. if that correct how ive read it will order and get on with it straight away thankyou once again ....... hope your broken foot is soon on the mend
 
You should be looking to follow this process:

Pre-wash using snow foam (if available)
Rinse
Decontaminate using Iron X
Rinse (do not dry)
Wash using the 2 bucket method, a decent lambswool mit or detailing sponge and shampoo
Rinse (do not dry)
[Clay (if you want do to this stage)
Wash using 2 bucket method
Rinse]
Dry using a microfibre towel
Polish
Glaze
Sealant
Wax

The last two stages are down to personal preference and what your looking to achieve....
 
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great advise juicy jen, as i was meaning to post a thread on exactly the same thing, glad nick2107 started it off :yes: will definitely keep this in mind..
 

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