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Best light bulb replacements?

Layerz Oct 26, 2007

  1. macattax

    macattax Member

    Just noticed the rubber ring on the light housing is that standard on prefacelift or did you custome fit that?
    I think my light housings have no holes in them so I wil probably have to drill a hole for the harness?

    So do I need to request the relay harness from them or do you not use it?

    Correct me if I am wrong here but I would feel a lot safer using one as I have read some horror stories about ppl getting their relays overheated to the extent that they get welded to the fuse board inside the car or melted electric wire harnesses. So by connecting to the battery directly I think it would take a lot of the stress away from the car, dont you think?
    So I think I will be making sure I have a direct connection to the battery before I put this kit into the car.

    You mentioned "set your headlamp aim" what do you mean by this and whats the procedure is it turning the screw on the headlamp or do you simply mean moving the dial in the cabin to raise and lower the beam?

    I must say this post is growing very big lol but at least its a more interesting one than the post we had about washer fluid last week lmao. :rockwoot:
  2. Jimbo.King

    Jimbo.King Active Member VCDS Map User

    You will have to drill the rear of the light housing with a hole cutter (25mm)
    I also fitted an extra rubber grommet to keep the water out (not needed) the wiring loom will come with a rubber grommet fitted.

    That’s up to you if you want to fit the extra harness but its really not needed (in my experience),
    You are still running the same 10Amp fuses for the headlamps so the wiring loom is still protected the same.
    The ballasts run at 3.2Amps and the H7 55w bulbs that you have in now run at approx 4.58Amp.

    You will have to take it somewhere that has a headlight beam setter, like what they use at the mot station,
    Motorsave or quickfit might have one or if you take your car to a local garage they might have one,
    Set you dial inside the car at 0 and adjust it with the screws on the headlight, one will move the beam left and right and the other screw will move the beam up and down.
  3. hacek

    hacek www.a4-klub.pl

    this , on the left, is HID 50W 6000k, it's wicked!!!!
  4. waveform2

    waveform2 * J e d i *

    Ive gone for the new 50w ballasts with 6000k bulbs cant wait to get them installed!! also got some blue/whiteish sidelight high beam bulbs, forgott about the fogs i'll need to get something for them.
  5. Layerz

    Layerz Member

    I must be going nuts but I went to change the sidelights and I duno how it comes off!! Just gona check a guide


    If anyone can point me in the direction of a guide for sidelights or explain it to me that would be great.
    I can see that it turns a bit, but they are stuck after that, do I just need to give it a good tug?

    And the otherthing is about the connector that goes onto the ballast for the HID kit, which wire is this? I can see where everything bar the car connector into the ballast goes.
    I best re explain this one basically on the input to the ballast, which conector goes into it?
    Also my headlights seem to be an older style to the pics posted on here earlier.
  6. inigoj

    inigoj Member

    If your headlights are an older 2 piece design, are you sure you dont need H4 bulbs?

    The newer sidelights have a bayonet fitting with a wedge bulb in them.

    The 2 spade connectors on the HID loom go into the H7 low beam connector, inside the passenger headlight.
  7. Layerz

    Layerz Member

    FFS this is my fault but yes they are the frosted type 2 piece kit and it is a early 98 plate.

    Can anyone please def confirm the right bulb types? I am now gona sell on the HID kit as I need to plow some money into other bits on the car and I might go HID next year and switch to eurohead lamps in the summer.

    I need to know the types for sidelights and main bulb is poss please.

    Also if anyone wants the LED lights or The HIDS msg me both never even got near the car and I am gona knock money off what I paid for em to shift em quick.

    Thanks, Lewis
  8. macattax

    macattax Member

    Pm sent :think:
  9. joost

    joost Active Member

    You can sometimes get round customs charges by doin one of a few things - get the vendor to mark the package 'used parts'. 'warranty parts' or just ask them to de-value the package on the customs form. Don't think any of the options is particularly legal though somehow! What you're essentially trying to do with the options above is give the impression that duty has already been paid (used & warranty parts) or that it's not worth much so the duty will be a small amount.
  10. macattax

    macattax Member

    They marked mine as samples only, no commercial value

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