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Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by hoffmanvp3, Sep 18, 2013.
Furry ****, put my name down when it's ready....
i work in the oil and gas so getting these service is kinda easy for me plus my brother being a machinist i can get him to skim if its needed but of course i will post my findings Bill
with all the best will in the world, you could go to town on checking / reinforcing the welds on the relentless, but half of them crack across the wall of the pipe where the material is thinner due to the bending process
Don`t they double butt these tubular`s?
Guess that's wishful thinking lol but for the price you cant complain, besides if it does crack i`ve got a few guys i know who can fabricate an exact copy of this with heavier tubular`s. Maybe a Titanium version and sell my own copy :thumbsup:
I suggest you do some more reading up dude... Relentless 'issues' are pretty well discussed on this forum (and others)
If you use heavier wall tube, then you either have reduced flow capacity, or trouble making it, so that it fits. Titanium would be rubbish as well as its stiffer even than stainless so would be more prone to cracking
Oh i did read up on them and are renowned for fitting issues but they say the V3 is better, if you believe that lol
AUDI TT S3 STAINLESS RACE MANIFOLD AND DOWNPIPE COMBO version3 | eBay
With modifying cars there's always gonna be bumps in the road, pun intended lol but if your modding your car and are worried if things will crack, break down, not fit or need a slight tweak then maybe you should stick to taking the bus to work as this come with the territory.
You never know, My manifold lottery could be fine with mine, who`s to say my manifold needs a opening up? Fine as the 5 axis CNC my brother uses at work will sort it or i`ll make a Titanium version as its cheap to butcher the V3.
Plus Tubular manis look cool as feck and probably provide more power which is the point in up grading the mani in the first place
K04 tubular manifold for 1.8turbo
More welds there to "crack"
You do know its probably the head off every time a mani goes down with the associated cost? unless you have the patience and double jointed-ness...
Yes i`ve considered that too but its a associated risk i`m willing to take on.
And the cost to me will be peanuts as it`ll be me that`s taking that head off, Plus my Octy 4x4 will get my around while the heads off
£200quid a time for genuine at retail? £180ish on trade. Unless you get some cheap **** from euros or something.
found this for all you guys that dont like the V3
A very interesting read.
Whats that proving?
We all know they flow well. Then we found out the V2 flowed even better because they compromised the flow trying to make it stronger and more reliable. Now the V2 manifolds are sought after massively. The V3 has to be ported too ideally.
Still doesnt dispute the fact they`ll crack and they`re a tw&t to fit.
can you confirm material spec in your NDT access?
as said by others, the most common crack area is the tube collector outlet thru the material itself.. (outside of bend and thin from bending process)
have you ever welded a manifold of this shape yourself?
know how many hours it will take to do it properly
commercially I mean... not mates..
thats why they cost a lot
Why do you need to know this?
As suspected this is turning into a slagging completion and i can`t be arsed answering every ones "trick " questions
Moderators you may as well delete this thread as its ****ed now
I'm not sure you can confirm the material spec by NDT. I can ask the mettalurgists at work tomorrow though
How is that a trick question?
If material A were claimed made to a spec, which was supposed to withstand X degrees for example, and it was found to be failling, it would be rather interesting to see if Material A was infact what it was claimed to be, or possibly a lower grade, which might explain an unexpected failure rate....
Not everyone is out to get you dude....
eh? Trick questions???
Whats trick about it?
Relentless claim Ti induced 321 stainless material
curious as to that being the case
thats why I asked
You could by a spark test apparently (in my former life it was a service our local NDT could do for us.. no idea how it worked tho)
Yeah spark arc test or more scientific, [FONT=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]spectroscopic analysis... which costs a few quid...[/FONT]
I'm bringing a V3 in tomorrow and they're going to have a look at it.
yea, one of them
cool.. should be interesting.
Well the day has come. Finally got started on pulling the engine outta the S3.
So far i haven't needed to drill any seized bolts but am not holding my breath lol
Drive shaft bolts was a pita to remove but did come out in one piece
And this is where i left off today.
Is it necessary to remove the sub frame to get access to the prop shaft bolts?
ooo do tell
Just three bolts... access is from the tunnel... just have to jam something up between the prop flange and the tranfer box while you undo them... awkward but not difficult..
does this idea involve removing the to Cat gain access through the tunnel?
How you have it now, its so easy to get to the 3 bolts from the front and reach down...just get grinding with the engine.....lol
10MM 12 point for reference...
Cheers for the reference Dave
Still waiting for IE Tuscan rods and ARP stud kits for the head and main to arrive but got the new OEM oil pump,pick up line, chain tensioner and OEM head gasket.
I'm hoping to get the engine out tomorrow as the drive shafts are already separated and most of the wiring has been tagged for identification and disconnected so it just be gaining access to the prop shaft flange and un bolting and it should fall out lol
Now that i remember i might just remove the sub frame as it could do with a clean and paint as its looking a bit rusty but that will require further work to remove the rack and a few odds n sods
Wells today was another successful days work.
Got the engine out and got the snapped bolt that holds the dog bone to the sub frame as some body must of just reused the old stretch bolts and surprise surprise they snapped when i was taking the dog bone off.
Seems to be a tradition on here so heres a pic of me in the empty engine bay
And the crack propagation in the turbo hot side and manifold so thats fit for the bin
The clutch friction disc looked like its worn squint
They do that... thats slipping the clutch in pulling away etc...
Like flex in the friction disc upon first contact?
Identicle cracks to mine.
Great engine bay pic. We really need to get a thread of these going....
Lol when I pulled the engine I kept think there's some thing I'm forgetting.....ah yes the engine bay mug shot
AEB head for £90. Worth a punt for the big port head?