Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Audi S4/A4/A4 Cab (B7 Chassis)' started by tuffy, Jan 2, 2013.
73mm i believe mate
Log in or Sign up to hide this advert.
Thought it was a better approach than just driving with fingers crossed. No hadn't planned on replacing any other parts. I would say it took us probably 2 hours in total to strip down a remove. To be honest, not as bad as i thought it was going to be.
Most difficult bit was removing two studs tucked up in the bell housing that were holding the sump in place.
Paul B7 posted this up (last page on the right in the middle)
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/63614250/2.0 TDI oil pumps.pdf
in the artical it says you can convert from the 2.0 oil pump back to the Old school B5 one which is the 1.9 (ALH)
from reading the article it says you need this part and that part
I am assuming that all the parts are from the 1.9 (ALH) and if this is true you could pick up a ALH engine for cheaper then £300
and just swap everything over
VOLKSWAGEN CADDY ENGINE 1.9TDI ALH CODE | eBay
did you end up taking the subframe off or just jacking it up ?
Loosened the subframe mate so it dropped a little and raised the engine a bit too using a engine hoist. Sump then just slipped out towards the front of the car
Yeah fingers crossed approach is doing my head in lol. Gotta get this **** sorted. Who's the garage might give em call
Its a friend of mines company in Suffolk, Modern vehicle technology. pretty good on all German cars
This is a good thread and thanks for keeping everyone updated. Its good to read not everyone has had to pay out like I did for a BLB chain to gear conversion.
As far as im concerned Paul these forums are for helping fellow Audi owners out, If we can save each other a few quid than its a bonus. Sorry to hear you had the expense of the big convertion
have a read
Oil pump chain smashed thru alloy case and discussion on replacement oil pump conversion kit for BLB engine - Page 8
There are several forums all telling similar tales of woe but I have yet to come across any better and more informative than the information in the now very long thread at the top /near the top of our very own forums top page on the B7 series.
Thanks for the posting anyhow as I am sure there are many,many others on here who want to read all they can about this latent Audi design defect and the Audi cover up that has now been running several years.
Hi all. Balance shaft sent off to Powermax today.They said it should be back with me Tuesday/Wednesday as they haven't any on the shelf, and will be upgrading my own unit.
Any chance of some photos showing how you have the engine supported and the subframe positioning etc.?
I will next time i go into the workshop. In the mean time i will try to explain.....Black engine cover removed from top of the engine, at the front of the engine and at the back you will see the engine support brackets.
We used a engine support that spans the engine left to right and sits on the inner lip of the wing, used two pieces of timber just to protect the lip of the wings. attached chain to the engine support brackets and support brace and wound it tight.
As for the subframe just loosen the bolts which hold the frame to the underside of the car just enough so it drops a few millimeters
I've read on other forums you have to totally remove the aircon compressor....you dont! undo and remove the bolt holding the compressor to the car but keeping all the pipes attached so not to release the gas and just support the compressor unit by a bungie strap.
Hope that helps.
That would be great, especially if you could do some detailed photos of the engine supports. Do you feel the removal of the front bumper was essential and made the job easier?
Didn't remove the front bumper mate, absolutely no need. The only parts physically removed were engine mounts allowing the sump to be dropped and removed
Bit of an update
Balance shaft returned today! Great turnaround service by Powermax! I sent it 4:30 on Thursday... recieved 10:00 am today
Just got to put it all back together now!
A quick question regarding the type of engine support beam you used. Was yours a single lift type that lifted both the front and back chains together or was it the twin lifter version with two independent chain lifters? My reason for asking is that i am looking to get all the necessary parts ready for doing mine. How is your rebuild coming along?
No problem Nigel. Its the single lift version, two chains attached to one tightening point in the middle of lift.
Its going slowly but surely......Sump, oil pump etc all cleaned in the wash tank on saturday. Silicone gasket sealant cleaned off sump a block and cleaned with wire wool, plus all bolts washed and cleaned. May be a bit long winded but want all the parts to be immacualtely clean before they go back together
Everything on the workbench ready to go back in :icon_thumright:
Is that your own workshop?
No mate, its my friends.
A couple of questions.... How do you plan to correctly position the balance shafts so their timing is correct when you put the unit back onto the engine? did you lock the engine at TDC? Is there a need to set the idle gear backlash when you refit the unit?
To be honest Nigel, I will be leaving that part of it to the trained Mechanic That's where I'm out of my depths. Stick to what ya know!
There's an Audi tool for doing the alignment, circa £20-30 off the bay last time I looked.
Audi Tool number T10255
Thx Paul. I can see how that tool aligns one of the balance shafts to engine TDC, but how do you align the other balance shaft to its partner when you rebuild the balance shaft assembly prior to putting back it onto the engine? This must be critical to avoid a lumpy engine.
Is there not a guide on here? Or does anyone have access to the workshop manuals?
Sorry I can't help here as mine was re built by Audi Teesside and used a new module.
Ok all back together! started and runs spot on, must admit fairly nervous when we turned the key! Didnt let it start straight away as wanted the oil to get pumped around a little before it actually fired up. oil filter, fuel filter and air filter changed. Will clean ERG valve out too if i get time.... Road test tomorrow,
Will also be wiring in the parking sensors tomorrow and refitting the rear bumper. All systems go! Time for the scirocco to go on Auto trader!
nice one tuffy, let us know how ya road test goes on
Will do. Didn't quite go to plan today, connected all the parking sensors up, offered the bumper up and there was a gap along the bumper where it meets the floor of the boot.
Turns out that the bodyshop removed it when spraying the bumper and forgot to give it back to me!!
Monday it is now!
Going to get it booked in for tints in the next week or so too!
Just had my Balance shaft swapped as the unthinkable happened on New Years Eve. I stopped within a mile of the oil pressure light coming on, but stilled finished off my turbo. The turbo worked (sounded very sick) for one day after the balance shaft was replaced but blew taking most of the oil out of the engine with it.... The Hex key (which was modified by the dealer under warranty) only lasted approx. 50k as you can see it was completely round. It was the 75mm one not the newer 100mm length which I guess is part of the problem. I purchased the new balance shaft for £225 (sending my old one back) and the labour was £450 with oil and filter. The AC needed re-gassing. The remanufactured turbo fitted was £500. so all in all it has costed me a just over 1k.
It is quite a job, in my case the dropped the sub-frame to take the sump off and moved the a/c unit. A few garages were not interested after bad experiences (I think to do the modification from the chain is an even bigger job as it needs more parts that will make it more expensive). If you are going to have it inspected i would have the hex or chain replaced at the same time as taking it apart is 3/4 of the job and expense.
The dealer does not even return my calls, I am thinking to taking the case to small claims court. There are so many cases at the moment the modified balance shafts are in short supply. The car is working but i am sure it has done no good to it, but when you look at the second hand prices of my 56 Audi Avant I would not swap it as at least i know my car and it is in good condition with a good spec. One garage told me to scap it...
It is very frustrating that all the expense could have been avoided and down to a bad design. I will just have to hit the brakes the next time the oil light comes on, as you never know when it will go or have a new hex shaft or chain fitted every 50K ish (I even wonder if you should not pay to upgrade the chain to the hex key as I think both are flawed and it may be better to save the conversion cash and just get the chain and drive replaced like the hex). The good news is there are some chaps out there who can help and supply units to get you back on the road, which the dealers are not willing to do unless you have very deep pockets.
I will update if I have anymore news
Sorry to hear about your troubles mate. Did the dealer originally replace only the hex key? Or did they replace the actuall balance shaft aswell ?
The dealer was very tight lipped when it went in, but I believe it must have been the balance shaft conversion from the chain. It was in for a few days. It is a BRE engine. I am just glad I got it at a good price and am planning doing another 100K in it ( let's see how many hex keys I get through) before I get a new one. When I brought it there were hardly any news on this, but this will roll and roll
I may be wrong mate but from what i've read/been told its not the actual hex thats the problem, its the drive inside the balance shaft which wears, causing movement and eventually rounds the hex key off causing it to slip
Powermax engineering who upgraded my balance shaft, just engineer a hardened drive into the center of the balance shaft, return it to you along with a next standard length oem hex key, which sort of indicates to me the hex is not the issue.
Time will tell i suppose!
Only the BLB coded engines have the chain driven balance shaft /oil pump assembly.
BRE engines have the gear driven unit fitted.
So converting to the 1.9 pump means to go back to chain and changing the sprocket on the crank shaft then replacing the oil pump. Sounds like a head ache! Well the oil pump going wrong was a head ache in the first place but its weighing in the options
Ok guys, back on topic..... Car is finished now Wooop! Wooop! Almost lost the will to live Friday evening when setting up the parking sensors....... Couldn't get them to work properly, turned out the wire had come off one sensor! So had to undo half the fixings on the bumper again to repair it
To be honest the whole job wasn't as bad as I thought, stripping down a replacing the balance shaft was fairly straight forward and if you have access to a set of lifts ( definately not a Sunday morning job laying on the drive) a practical mind don't be put having a crack
With a bit of patience it's possible to remove the sump without actually removing too much else
Parking sensors was an ok job too, once you've removed boot interior trim, Bose ( if applicable ) and the 18 or so fixings holdings the bumper to the car, you're away! It helps a lot having the position of the sensors marked on the inside of the bumper!
Also gave me the chance to replace the broken filler flap locking actuator !
I will hopefully get some pics up of the car.
Although my knowledge is really very limited always happy to try a answer any questions if anyone has a go at any of the above.
Nice one ,glad you got it sorted.
Will you be going to the meet at Tivetshall Ram on 17th March?
Some pictures......The scirocco which is now up for sale..... And the new family vehicle....