- Joined
- Jan 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,248
- Reaction score
- 4
- Points
- 38
first of, the size difference between the discs
jack the car up and remove the wheels
get someone to press the brake pedel. whilst you slacken/remove of the T30 headed bolt if its there, if it rounds the head off, use a drill and drill the head off
youll then need to disconnect/unplug the wear limit sensor and pull the wire out of the holder next to the plug
clamp up the flexi hose that goes to the caliper (molegrips and cardboard
)
next, remove the little black caps on the back of the calliper, to reveal 2 7mm allen key headed bolts
undo and remove these bolts
with the caliper and pads out of the way, remove the calliper mounting bracket, 2 21mm bolts, i had to use a breaker bar to get the ******* to move.
now its time to mount the S4 brakes, first mount the caliper onto the hub, but only with the top bolt, put the disc onto the hub, by moving the caliper upwards, once the disc is in place put the bottom bolt in and tighten, pic doesnt show disc in place
now remove the bleed nipple fully out of the caliper, now fasten up the outer part of the caliper 2 M12 spline headed bolts, only put these in losely, insert all 4 pads and making sure the pads are sitting correctly, tighten up the M12 bolts, making sure the outer part of the caliper is located in the slide type thing correctly.
reconet the brake pipes and sensor wiring etc, refit the bleed nipple, now remove the clamp of the brake pipe and open the bleed nipple, once fluid starts coming out, lock it up, now youll need to bleed it to get the rest of the air out.
now this is where i ran in to a problem, when putting the wheels back onto the car they hit the calliper!!!!
i decided that i would take a grinder to the calliper to make enough clearance for the spokes that where hitting it, as im not a fan of spacers, but insted of grinding it, a 3 - 5mm spacer would give you enough clearnce.
i dont understand why the spokes where catching as there B5 S4 brakes and RS4 wheels.
but after a while with a grider, job done
feel so much better all ready
jack the car up and remove the wheels
get someone to press the brake pedel. whilst you slacken/remove of the T30 headed bolt if its there, if it rounds the head off, use a drill and drill the head off
youll then need to disconnect/unplug the wear limit sensor and pull the wire out of the holder next to the plug
clamp up the flexi hose that goes to the caliper (molegrips and cardboard
)
next, remove the little black caps on the back of the calliper, to reveal 2 7mm allen key headed bolts
undo and remove these bolts
with the caliper and pads out of the way, remove the calliper mounting bracket, 2 21mm bolts, i had to use a breaker bar to get the ******* to move.
now its time to mount the S4 brakes, first mount the caliper onto the hub, but only with the top bolt, put the disc onto the hub, by moving the caliper upwards, once the disc is in place put the bottom bolt in and tighten, pic doesnt show disc in place
now remove the bleed nipple fully out of the caliper, now fasten up the outer part of the caliper 2 M12 spline headed bolts, only put these in losely, insert all 4 pads and making sure the pads are sitting correctly, tighten up the M12 bolts, making sure the outer part of the caliper is located in the slide type thing correctly.
reconet the brake pipes and sensor wiring etc, refit the bleed nipple, now remove the clamp of the brake pipe and open the bleed nipple, once fluid starts coming out, lock it up, now youll need to bleed it to get the rest of the air out.
now this is where i ran in to a problem, when putting the wheels back onto the car they hit the calliper!!!!
i decided that i would take a grinder to the calliper to make enough clearance for the spokes that where hitting it, as im not a fan of spacers, but insted of grinding it, a 3 - 5mm spacer would give you enough clearnce.
i dont understand why the spokes where catching as there B5 S4 brakes and RS4 wheels.
but after a while with a grider, job done
feel so much better all ready
