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Awe boost gauge questions.

Discussion in 'A4/S4 forum(B5 Chassis)' started by Soupie69uk, Jun 26, 2007.

  1. Soupie69uk

    Soupie69uk Owner

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    Hey guys I fitted my Awe boost gauge today.

    Its buzzing though under boost. I remember reading ages ago about this.

    Whats the fix?


    Also I wired up the lighting as the instructions say to the earth and the x75 point. This makes the light come on with th ignition, I want it so it comes on with the lights though. Anyone know what point I need to put it onto?

    Thanks.
     
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  3. Danielson

    Danielson Member

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    im sure i read somewhere about a restrictor of some kind to stop the buzzing, as for the wiring, i would leave it as it is mate, thats how mine is. the dials light up without the lights on so in my eyes so should the boost gauge.
     
  4. shineydave

    shineydave Member

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    did you fit the T piece correctly?
    if you look in each of the three tails one of them will have a brass bush in there to restrict the airflow, that's the one that the gauge should be attached to
     
  5. Nogwuy

    Nogwuy Member

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    Hi, i only have a cheepo boost gage, and it only came with really short wires, so being lazy i just tapped into the wires for the lighting of the air vent controls (mine is mounted in the center vent pod). So it only lights up when i have the lights on (like the rest of the dash) and hasnt given me any problems. I didnt get any instructions with mine so i dont know what other people have done, but i fed my vacume hose through the rubber bung thing in the wall of the pollen filter housing (under the bonnet). and after removing the glove box section the hose was easily grabable and fed up to where the gage was located. By the way what boost does yours show or anyone else with a 1.8t quattro sport? i had already fitted a N75 J (&710N DV) before i put the gage in so dont know if it helped or not, but my peak is 0.3 bar (without re-map or anything), does this seem low or about right? also i am waiting to get my ecu back after a re-map from chipped uk, does anyone know if i will need to replace my original N75 valve or will it be ok with the N75 J still in? (I.E. not overboost). Cheers & sorry if ive gone off on too much of a tangent!
     
  6. shineydave

    shineydave Member

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    0.3bar doesn't seem like much to me, i'd have thought it should be nearer 0.8, sounds to me like it's in limp mode but i'm sure someone will be along soon with more detailed info
     
  7. Nogwuy

    Nogwuy Member

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    Thanks, does limp mode just limit the boost then, or actualy limit revs and speed too? as i didnt notice any significant diferance after fitting the N75 J to make me think it has reduced performance?
     
  8. Soupie69uk

    Soupie69uk Owner

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    Oh right the only things I notice that light up when I put the key in is the clock and mileage. Not the speedo, gog light buttons etc.


    Yeah I put the end with the brass bit in the hose to the gauge.
     
  9. jcb

    jcb Active Member
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    most run at anywhere from around 7-9psi - 0.48-0.62Bar
     
  10. Soupie69uk

    Soupie69uk Owner

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    Mine runs at 16psi. Spikes at 17 psi though.

    It sometimes goes into like a limp mode which is about 6psi for me, this is becasue I am running a K03s remap on a K04 I think.

    Am going to Vag.com the car on tuesday to see if any codes come up.
     
  11. Markey

    Markey Active Member

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    I remember reading somwhere that you can put an inline filter of some kind that is standard fit in some engines for vac hoses etc that will stop this buzzing.
    Should be able to get one from local parts shop for 50p etc.
     
  12. Soupie69uk

    Soupie69uk Owner

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    Cool cheers mate.
     
  13. kermac

    kermac kermac

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    Hi Soupie

    I fitted a boost gauge a couple of years ago and got the same buzzing noise and vibration of the needle.

    You'll need to insert a restrictor into the line, or buy a T-piece with a built-in restrictor. The easiest AND cheapest answer is to find a piece of electrical wire with the same outside diameter (OD) as the ID of the line to the gauge. Cut off a short length (1" or so), remove the copper wires inside and slide it up into the line. Iit should be a reasonably tight fit so it doesn't slide backwards and forwards.

    Another low-budget idea is to place a small blob of super glue or epoxy in the end of the T-piece, then when almost dry push a pin or needle up the middle of it to create a hole of smaller diameter than the line. Don't forget to remove the pin before refitting the line!

    Hope this works!

    Cheers

    kermac
     

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