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Auxiliary Heater element fault

Discussion in 'A3/S3/Sportback (8P Chassis)' started by woody83, Feb 1, 2014.

  1. woody83

    woody83 New Member

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    I have a fault come up, saying that the Heater element for the auxiliary heater is faulty or not working. (00361). Excuse my ignorance, but does anybody know where this is located, and is it an easy/expensive job to fix if I do it myself? I was going to try it this weekend, along with some other issues with he car! (2006 A3 2.0 170 TDI)
    Thanks for any help!
     
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  3. heap1000

    heap1000 Member

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    I have this fault too. The heater will not stay just on auto the econ light will always remain on. it now takes longer to heat up and does not get as warm.
     
  4. woody83

    woody83 New Member

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    From what I understand, this is a heater that takes the intake air to help the engine warm up faster, but this could be wrong?
     
  5. heap1000

    heap1000 Member

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    Oh I thought it was a heater that gave you heat quicker through the vents so you did not have to wait for the engine to warm up. Since I have had the fault it takes a lot longer to get heat than it used to.
     
  6. hollow

    hollow Well-Known Member

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    its the ptc heater element inside the car in the heaters airbox , it could just be the 100 amp fuse under the bonnet that has blown it could be the heating element this comes on in colder weather to assist in heating the car faster /demisting .
     
  7. OCD-A3

    OCD-A3 Member

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    Indeed, it is the electric heater that sits in front of the standard heater core, provides heat until the coolant gets up to temp. They fail on VW TDIs frequently as well. If you pull the heater, there is a circuit board under a plastic cover on one end, it develops bad solder joints over time. You may be able to fix it by reflowing any bad joints. They are quite expensive to replace.
     
  8. 20pricey11

    20pricey11 Member

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    Where is the heater core
     
  9. Lukeyb

    Lukeyb Active Member

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    Here
     

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  10. tdi-man

    tdi-man Well-Known Member

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    how big a job is it to change the element ?
     
  11. AudiA3JJ

    AudiA3JJ Active Member

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    Remove grab handles, aircon control below stereo, glovebox then centre console- I think in that order. More fiddly than anything.
    The aux heater is then unbolted and slides out. I'm removing mine this week to try resolder the joints and make it work. I'll post pics if I do
     
    tdi-man likes this.
  12. tdi-man

    tdi-man Well-Known Member

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    great let my know post some pics up please
     
  13. AudiA3JJ

    AudiA3JJ Active Member

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    Had a go at it tonight, removing glovebox and center console. Unfortunately I ran out of day light so I'll finish off on Sunday aft. Just some quick notes, I didn't need to remove the air con unit, as I never re-fitted the fiddly bolts for the rear grab at the back of the air con unit as they're solid without them.

    Tools I used:
    • Flat blunt tool for removing plastic trim (plastic ones are best obviously)
    • 5mm allen bit & 'L' key (for grab handles)
    • T25 Torx bit
    • 5mm socket
    • 10mm socket
    • 13mm socket or rachet spanner (for the arm rest)
    The aux heater is there, but, its covered by a plastic cover attached to some sort of actuator with a yellow arm attached. I'll have a go at this on Sunday, my Haynes manual didn't show or mention having to remove this part. So if anyone can shed some light on what it is and how to remove it please let me know. Pics below:

    Alot to remove to get access behind a little bit of plastic!
    [​IMG]

    There is a black bracket covering access, secured by 3 bolts, I miss the 3rd little one and snapped the plastic so undo this one first:
    [​IMG]
    Close up:
    [​IMG]

    Here is as far as I got to. A close up of the plastic cover infront of the Aux heater. The two large silver electrical connections at the top connect to the Aux heater. The 'grid' moulded cover is all that on the left side.
    [​IMG]

    Heres a close up, you can see the Aux heater behind the plastic cover:
    [​IMG]

    This is a picture of the actuator with yellow arm attached, must operate some flaps maybe?:
    [​IMG]
     
  14. AudiA3JJ

    AudiA3JJ Active Member

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    On another note, I'm very tempted to slice this part of the center console off where I've drawn the line and create a neat joint using a rubber gasket! Save half the headache of access to the Aux heater... I am assuming I'm going to need access again if it faults after its fixed.
    [​IMG]
     
  15. tdi-man

    tdi-man Well-Known Member

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    great thanks
     
  16. tdi-man

    tdi-man Well-Known Member

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    wheres the fuse for this can it be removed if the element isn't working
     
  17. SAiLO

    SAiLO Well-Known Member
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    Had this problem for over three winters now. Got used to living with it but getting the windscreen de-misted takes a while.....
     
  18. AudiA3JJ

    AudiA3JJ Active Member

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    For fuse, see my other thread "auxiliary cabin heater". I got mine out tonight and took loads of pictures which I'll post tomorrow. Found a resistor with broken joint, fixed it and popped it back in, now I just need a cold day to test it on (no vagcom). Also, I missed a few bits to same time if I ever have to get to it again, I'll post those pics too tomorrow.
     
  19. tdi-man

    tdi-man Well-Known Member

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    cool I have a fault some where as my warning triangle is lit up when I lock car and its pulling my hair out . didn't know if this fault could drain the battery or not ?
     
  20. tdi-man

    tdi-man Well-Known Member

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    good news took the aux heater fuse out last night and battery is at 12.4 volts this morning and the red warning triangle light has gone out so looks like I need to get that element changed.
     
  21. AudiA3JJ

    AudiA3JJ Active Member

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    So I got the heater out at the weekend and I have added some pics below on how I did it. Also, I made modifications to the plastic cover and the center console to make access 100% easier if I have to get to it again:

    Disconnect and remove the car battery first (or just disconnect up to you):

    1: Remove the blower pipe - 1 screw
    2: remove cable ties to wire bundles attached the the black plastic cover
    3: remove black metal bracket - 2 bolts and 1 screw.
    [​IMG]

    4: (make sure car battery is disconnected) Disconnect blue and black wiring connectors in this photo:
    5: Disconnect the 2 silver terminals (10mm socket)
    [​IMG]

    6: Disconnect the yellow lever here:
    [​IMG]

    7: Undo approx 8mm bolts (A in image) that secure the black plastic cover - these are all 8mm (I used a magnetic tool to pull out the awkward ones so I didn't loose them) & now you should be able to remove the black plastic cover with the motor attached - the yellow arm can fall off dont loose it.
    [​IMG]

    8: Remove heater:
    [​IMG]
     
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  23. AudiA3JJ

    AudiA3JJ Active Member

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    Here is the heater from my A3:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  24. AudiA3JJ

    AudiA3JJ Active Member

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    I then removed the end cover to the circuit board, there is a clip either end, I used a flat headed screw driver to prise it - before I did though I ran a stanley knife around the joint as it looked like it had been glued from factory? ....Just to note, I did try to take the circuit board out by unscrewing the 4 screws (red circles below) Unfortunately it was properly glued in from below - good job in end as I forgot to pop the screws back in !

    Once open you can see the circuit board. from all the posts I've read its the resistors (below in yellow boxes) that fail on the joints:
    [​IMG]

    I decided to re-solder the joints on mine, ideally you need a micro soldering iron, clamps and things to hold the resistors in position should they come loose (like mine did) they're tiny and very fiddly (take close up pics so you know which way around they are if they do fall off).

    The first resistor I soldered fell off when I touched it on one side, revealing a broken joint on the other side, I circled it in red below - you can see the right hand connection was clean cut through - most likely the reason why mine never worked:
    [​IMG]

    I then proceeded to crudely re-solder all the resistors - I did one side of a resistor at a time, moved to another, let it cool then did the other side of the resistor:
    [​IMG]

    Then I put it all back together - make sure you put screws back in unlike me!
     
    #22 AudiA3JJ, Oct 14, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2015
  25. AudiA3JJ

    AudiA3JJ Active Member

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    The mods I made to make access easier next time:

    Cut the plastic cover like this:
    [​IMG]

    Heater matrix now pulls straight out:
    [​IMG]

    And, this is more extreme, but I can live with it - Chopped the end on the passenger side center console off:
    [​IMG]
    Fitted:
    [​IMG]

    To hide the joint I might get one of these:
    [​IMG]
     
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  26. SAiLO

    SAiLO Well-Known Member
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    Nice write up. Thanks for sharing all the info!
     
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  27. AudiA3JJ

    AudiA3JJ Active Member

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    Does anyone know if I need to clear my fault codes before it would work again or if its fixed should it just work? So far I've had no additional heat from cold.
     
    #25 AudiA3JJ, Oct 15, 2015
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2015
  28. SAiLO

    SAiLO Well-Known Member
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    I'd say you probably need to clear errors and test afterwards. Also auxiliary heater will only work under some conditions like cold engine, low temperature outside, heating set to blow at max and possibly engine above certain revs.
     
  29. AudiA3JJ

    AudiA3JJ Active Member

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    Looks like I need a vcds user ! Prerequisites for it to function are;

    - occupants sets the heating output to over 90% at the operating unit (analog signal)

    - the water temperature is below 75°C,

    - if the engine speed is higher than 500 rpm,

    - if no load management system is active

    - if the ECON button is not pressed
     
  30. AudiA3JJ

    AudiA3JJ Active Member

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    Thought I'd add an update. Had it back on vcds now and the fault code for auxiliary heater have cleared and an output test in vcds gave me 972watts! So the re-soldering worked... Happy days for cold mornings ahead :)
     
    DJ_26 likes this.
  31. Zac

    Zac Member

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    I know I'm reviving an old thread, but this is for others potentially reading this like I was.

    Just wanted to say thank you for posting this up; I had initially tried replacing the aux heater to no avail. For anyone wondering whether the part numbers are interchangeable, I found them not to be despite some having identical connections. My original part # was 1K0 963 235 C, and I tried 1K0 963 235 D. It all went together perfectly, and VCDS recognised it, and would even give out heat when I ran an output test. However, it would not run without my input on VCDS no matter what I did. So I resoldered the resistors on my original 'C' unit, as suggested by AudiA3JJ, refitted and I now have heat within 1 minute from starting in cold temps again!

    So thanks again mate.
     

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