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Audio Upgrade

Discussion in 'In-Car Entertainment' started by Lilgaz, Jul 19, 2009.

  1. Lilgaz
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    Lilgaz Vorsprung Dirk Kuyt

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    I have just bought a Sony CDX GT730UI head unit to replace my double DIN Symphony head unit with BOSE system. I am also fitting an amp and sub.

    From what I can gather the existing system is rear amplified and not fully amplified ???

    Therefore I think I need the auto leads harness PC9 – 401 ????

    The manual for the Sony h.u. states connecting active speakers with built in amplifiers is a no no, therefore I was wondering if the BOSE plug in the boot feeding the tuppleware sub could provide me with the un-amplified supply to take back to the h.u. ?? ( without the need to take direct feeds from the actual speakers)

    While in the process off running the 12V power lead to the amp is it worth running a pair of RCA`s and a amp remote on? Or can these be picked up from the BOSE plug???

    I ask this as I was wondering if the BOSE plug in the boot is of any use now that an aftermarket h.u. is in place??

    Also, there are three configurations for powering the h.u.

    The supplied Sony harness

    Yellow – continuous power supply
    Red – switched power supply

    • (stereo connector) Red -------- Red (car connector)
    (stereo connector) Yellow------Yellow (car connector)

    • (stereo connector) Red --------Yellow (car connector)
    (stereo connector) Yellow ----- Red (car connector)

    • (stereo connector) Red -------- Yellow (car connector)
    (stereo connector) Yellow ------Yellow (car connector)
    Red (car connector) not connected

    (method 3 for cars without ACC position)

    I assume its either method 1 or 2 ???

    Thanks to AndyMac for pdf install instructions :icon_thumright:

    Thanks in advance

    Gaz
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  2. BahnStormer77
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    BahnStormer77 BahnStormer

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    RE the BOSE: pretty sure that all 10 sepaker + sub are amplified.... also remember that if you replace the BOSE sound processing that you lose the active volume (based on cabin noise picked up via the ceiling microphone).

    I know some people who have replace the sub with a higher spec but similar power sub... anything more than that and you're likely to unbalance the whole system unless you really know what you're doing.

    I've got a few wiring diags (pdf) from when I was looking into this, but I gave up and decided just to replace the sub if it goes and pray the rest of the speakers are fine, which they have been thus far!
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2009
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  3. AndyMac
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    AndyMac Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    The Bose system is fully amped, and you can't cut this out of the system as all the Bose speakers are 2 ohm impedance so connecting them directly to the Sony will fry the Sony's amp.
    You either replace the cabin speakers and run them off the HU, or use the RCA input adapter and put up with the "popping" that you are likely to get from the Bose amp.
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  4. Lilgaz
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    Lilgaz Vorsprung Dirk Kuyt

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    Cheers for the speedy reply lads :thumbsup: … upgrading all of the cabin speakers and wiring them back to the head unit sounds like the best option to me personally….

    If I was to carry out the above would I be right in thinking I now need the autoleads harness part no: PC9-408? (BOSE fully amplified)
    (Connecting the power connector through the harness and running the cables from the speaker connector block to the speakers separately)

    Any ideas on the actual power connections for the Sony h.u.??


    From what I thought was a simple install has turned into a whole new ball game….but I like a challenge !

    Thanks again

    Gaz
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  5. AndyMac
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    AndyMac Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    If you aare gonna replace the speakers then you don't need any Autoleads adapter. There are no speaker connections at the HU on the Bose system (they are all at the Bose amp in the right cubbyhole in the boot), so you can't use the existing wiring at the HU (so no need to interface with it at all). All you need is a bare 8 pin female ISO speaker harness (£2.99 from Maplins) and some speaker wire. The easiest option is to just run the new cable from the HU back to the Bose amp and then pick up the feeds to the speakers from the Bose amp (saves running new cable all the way to the speakers).
    As to the power connections, it depends on the year of your A3. this will dictate if you have a CANBUS controlled HU or not. Pre 2000 you are likely to have a proper ignition switched feed to the HU, so option 2 (yellow to red, red to yellow as Audi wire them back to front), 2000+ and it is likely the HU will have a CANBUS controlled ignition on, so there won't be a 12v switched supply at the HU. You either just pair the yellow and red wires from the HU and connect them both to the red perm 12v on the Audi loom and turn the HU on/off manually, or you can wire in an ignition on feed from the Radio S-Kont fuse at the fusebox, then use this to connect to the red wire on the Sony.
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  6. Lilgaz
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    Lilgaz Vorsprung Dirk Kuyt

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    Cheers Andy, I`ve got an 8L S3 02 model, so I`ll go with pairing the yellow and red wires from the h.u. and connect them both to the red perm 12V on the Audi loom and turn the HU on/off manually.

    Thanks for the amp feed tip, should save some time!

    The only reason I mentioned the autoleads harness was that my sony harness has one block from the head unit split into two blocks for the car.
    Block A has the speaker connections only, and the other Block B houses the continuous power supply, the switched power supply, the power antenna aerial control, the earth, and the switched illumination power supply. I thort I`d need the harness just to connect Block B into the audi loom, and like you said, take a separate “home made” harness to the speakers (via the cubby hole amp feed)

    There is also a flying lead, light blue cable marked ATT (attenuation i`m guessing)..do you know were to connect this to?

    Cheers

    Gaz
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  7. AndyMac
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    AndyMac Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    No you don't need an adapter for the black ISO power connector, just cut the red and yellow wires on the sony harness and connect them together to the yellow wire on the connector end, or use a piggyback connector to avoid having to cut the yellow wire.
    No idea on the ATT wire, probably a tel mute or something similarly irrelevant.
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  8. Lilgaz
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    Lilgaz Vorsprung Dirk Kuyt

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    The red and yellow cable have crimped bullet plugs between the stereo connector end and the car connector end of the sony harness so joining is simple....

    Sorry to be a pain in the arse.. I`m slightly confused here :uhm: …so doesn`t the power antenna aerial control, the earth, and the switched illumination power supply not matter ?

    The ATT isn`t a major issue, just thort you may have known..but cheers anyway

    :thumbsup:
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  9. AndyMac
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    AndyMac Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    You only need power & earth. The earth is in the correct position already. Illumination won't work as it's also CANBUS controlled, the power antenna should be used to power the aerial amp adapter which you'll need to get radio reception from the beesting aerial:
    http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/iso-active-aerial-adaptor.html

    Can also be used as a remote on for the amp, but ou should have a separate one for that.
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  10. Lilgaz
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    Lilgaz Vorsprung Dirk Kuyt

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    Nice one for the link, this may sound a dumb question but does that mean the display illumination will be off completely???
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  11. AndyMac
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    AndyMac Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    No, it just means the HU illumination won't dim with the dash illumination i.e when you turn the headlights on the dash lights dim, but the HU won't.
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  12. Lilgaz
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    Lilgaz Vorsprung Dirk Kuyt

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    Great! I was hoping that was the case!
    Thanks for being patient and all your help fella much appreciated!
    Take it easy!

    Gaz :icon_thumright:
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