Audi S3 - Stroker Big Turbo build.

There was a thread I read that the one nozzle is just after ic and the other one is in the TIP just before turbo.... Don't know how effective it is but apparently turbo runs cooler to?
 
Today was slightly cooler than 50deg so I started on the WMI setup.

Fitted the tank and pump onto the panel that covers the battery in the boot. Still need to fit the level sensor to the tank.



Fitted in the boot



and



With the hose line fed through the car and all the wiring done, except for the master switch and LEDs, I decided to test the system.
I bought Devils Own D02 & D03 nozzles.
Test went as so, start the car to get correct voltage delivered to the pump, aimed the D03 nozzle into a measuring jug and ran the system for 1 minute.
Now a D03 nozzle is supposed to flow at 189ml/minute. I don't know at what pressure that is supposed to be at but I got about 250ml after spraying for 1 minute with the 200psi pump. I understand that the pump pressure might be a little bit higher with the 13.8 volts supplied while the car is running.



Next up was the D02 nozzle, which is supposed to flow at 126ml/min. So I was shocked to find that I got about 270ml after a minute at 200psi.



I tried testing both the nozzles a few times and got very similar results. I even tried both nozzles at the same time. Which resulted in about 520ml after 1 minute.



Now both nozzles have their "correct" stamps on them which indicate which nozzle is which. But I think there has been a mistake in manufacturing. The tiny hole that the water gets sprayed out looks the same for both nozzles. Not sure if their is supposed to be a visual difference in the size of these holes.
I have contacted Devils Own USA, so waiting on their reply.

Hopefully get the IC pipe welded tomorrow and a thread tapped for the nozzle.
 
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I finished installing the WMI setup today. I am still waiting on the guy to supply the meth, so only injecting distilled water today.

I first did a run with the WMI system turned off, so only the FMIC is cooling the air.
It was about 45 deg C when I did the logs, I think the FMIC is doing a pretty good job cooling the charged air considering the FMIC is getting 45 deg air blown over it.



As you can see max IAT was 57 deg on boost. Off boost driving at around 100km/h, the IAT would sit around 50deg.

Then I turned the WMI system on, was very nerve racking!!! I had visions of injecting water into an engine doing 4000rpm and it going BOOM with a rod sticking out the block, but all went well.



As you can see the IAT has dropped and the after effects seem to keep the IATs a bit cooler. AT cruising speed of 100km/h, the IAT would sit around 45deg.
I was a bit disappointed to see only a 10deg drop in IAT. I thought the IAT would be below ambient temps with water injection. I am hoping the methanol helps with the cooling as well. Maybe its down to it just being so damn hot ATM and the K04 must be making some pretty intense heat too.

Tomorrow I will try adjusting the boost switch to see if it makes a difference in IAT if the system starts to spray a bit sooner.
 
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Injecting just water doesn't have the same cooling affect as a meth mix dude... a drop is expected of course as water will absorb the heat but the meth evapourates colder which will bring the temps down below ambient...

To give you an idea, on the way home from work the other day ambient was 32degs, IAT's sat at 34degs (slow moving traffic and a little heatsoak)... managed to open her up a bit as I pulled onto a decent road and IAT's dropped to 23degs... note they will go back up to ambient once WMI is not running but WMI's effect when running will be obvious :)

Also bare in mind that the IAT's timing compensation will start kicking in after 30deg IAT anyway... to keep your actual timing (assuming the table hasn't been tweaked in the map) you need to keep IAT's below 30deg or on the right setup this table can be tweaked to raise the thresholds a bit

<tuffty/>
 
Thanks for the info tuffy, I would be happy if the IAT dropped another 5deg with WM mixture. Obviously the hot weather at the moment is not ideal and the BT engine wont be hammer during the hot months.


Finished off the turbo oil drain pipe. Inspired by Bills work on Staceys car, mine is stainless steel into the OEM line as I had to run mine through the manifold runners. The flexi part will be wrapped with heat shield.



Then fitted to the turbo and sump.






Also been working on a heat shield to protect the stuff thats prone to melt. Will do a CAD drawing and get some stainless steel sheet cut by the water jet cutters, as cardboard just wont last long :)



Xcessive plenum is here, so the intake manifold can get welded up.

Still cant make up my mind if I should get velocity stacks or just router the start of the runners inside the plenum.
Whats your thoughts people?
 
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Test fitting of a larger Xcessive intake plenum with AEB runners. Double checking measurements before welding.



With fuel rail

 
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The sad thing is, I can't bling out the engine bay and make it tuffyclean. They so strict here about car mods, I have to leave it dirty and also why I have gone with the full black theme. Try to camouflage it all. I will even have to put the std air box when I got for inspection. Will have to make a plan with the tip, remove the maf and run with the K&N flat filter when its time for inspection.

My mate with is top mount BT TT, failed inspection for having a red valve cover, open air filter, wheel spacers and loud exhaust, which isn't even loud. They said nothing about the turbo and IE surge tank in the engine bay.
 
Why the manual tensioner,, because of stroker?

because it looks pretty :)
I have also found it makes changing the cambelt a crap load easier, especially with the engine in the car. The OEM tensioner is for gypsies :)

well you could make it looks like pauls engine bay and have over 400bhp to lol

they would be suspect and wonder why it's so clean for such an old car, then start looking deeper into the engine bay, then I will be in kak!
I am even keeping my AMK head with manifold and turbo connected, in case I need to swap over if it fails inspection. Head swap for a day, that's how retarded things are here.
 
It's equally **** here for car modification but we just have less sand and more scantily clad women.

If you mod a car here, you're meant to get it "engineered" which is ~$1,000 for the car. I plan on getting mine done once the engine is done to save agro.
 
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They do have these rules for a reason and that is, local kids get given high HP cars as their first car and because they don't work and have nothing to do they go straight to the performance shops and come out with 1000hp monsters, then crash and die. Which is not a bad thing as its just natural selection. Stupid people have no place on earth.
But as always it only takes one idiot to ruin things for the rest.
 
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he dont have any of that stuff to worry about here i dont even have a cat lmao

I also removed the cat, They dont check emissions on old cars

so how the hell do they get by with 1fz patrols kicking out 1000hp with blowers that wont even fit under the bonnet??

You mean these ? They not road worthy and used for dune drag racing. But the do love to turbo that straight 6. We call them straight line pilots. First corner and either they on the brakes or going off the road.

LiwaFest2

 
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back in the day. before I got here, no one really cared about speed limits.
When I got here you were still allowed to go 160km/h on the freeway without getting a speeding fine. Then once again, idiots driving at 160 in the fog, had a 56 car pile up on the freeway. Now you can do 140km/h legally, even though they have road signs that say the speed limit is 120km/h.
 
Whos this tuffy fella you keep on about? sounds almost as OCD as me ;P

<tuffty/>
 
Whos this tuffy fella you keep on about? sounds almost as OCD as me ;P

<tuffty/>

You should start your own range of auto car products, you can call it........
Tuffy Clean, its not clean till you Tuffied it :lmfao:
 
Why the manual tensioner,, because of stroker?

Manual tensioner is better for engines that are built to rev high, have heavy valve trains (supertech valves and springs for example) and cams (or any combo of aforementioned parts..) stiffer springs, big *** cams and high revs all load the cam drive system up much more than std... this can lead to the tensioner damper compressing under load potentially slackening the belt and allowing it to slip teeth... this of course is bad...

Also worth doing on a build like that is doweling the crank pulley (keyway is pretty weak) and using an ARP bolt on the cam pulley (plus the little IE friction washer)...

All helps make it a more reliable engine when tuning to this level

<tuffty/>
 
Manual tensioner is better for engines that are built to rev high, have heavy valve trains (supertech valves and springs for example) and cams (or any combo of aforementioned parts..) stiffer springs, big *** cams and high revs all load the cam drive system up much more than std... this can lead to the tensioner damper compressing under load potentially slackening the belt and allowing it to slip teeth... this of course is bad...

Also worth doing on a build like that is doweling the crank pulley (keyway is pretty weak) and using an ARP bolt on the cam pulley (plus the little IE friction washer)...

All helps make it a more reliable engine when tuning to this level

<tuffty/>

What this guy said, plus it looks pretty :)
 
You should start your own range of auto car products, you can call it........
Tuffy Clean, its not clean till you Tuffied it :lmfao:

Or... you could call it tuffty clean... notice the spelling... just saying ;)

Gotta protect the trademark lol

<tuffty/>
 
back in the day. before I got here, no one really cared about speed limits.
When I got here you were still allowed to go 160km/h on the freeway without getting a speeding fine. Then once again, idiots driving at 160 in the fog, had a 56 car pile up on the freeway. Now you can do 140km/h legally, even though they have road signs that say the speed limit is 120km/h.

You should come to Australia, I just got a $200 fine for going 67km/h in 60km/h area
 
because it looks pretty :)
I have also found it makes changing the cambelt a crap load easier, especially with the engine in the car. The OEM tensioner is for gypsies :)
Yeah can see it would be a lot easier than the dreaded pin...it does look a bit more gypsy than OEM TBH...

Manual tensioner is better for engines that are built to rev high, have heavy valve trains (supertech valves and springs for example) and cams (or any combo of aforementioned parts..) stiffer springs, big *** cams and high revs all load the cam drive system up much more than std... this can lead to the tensioner damper compressing under load potentially slackening the belt and allowing it to slip teeth... this of course is bad...

Also worth doing on a build like that is doweling the crank pulley (keyway is pretty weak) and using an ARP bolt on the cam pulley (plus the little IE friction washer)...

All helps make it a more reliable engine when tuning to this level

<tuffty/>
Hmm then there is the hassle of getting the tension right and you will have to keep checking it i would imagine for looseness/belt stretch? this is off the 16v i presume? the 20v one seems more than enough pressure,(esp trying to get them back down) you dont want to strain them super cam bearings by over tightening the manual one...
 
You should come to Australia, I just got a $200 fine for going 67km/h in 60km/h area

Thats steep!!!
The long term life plan is to settle in Australia or New Zealand, guess my S3 will have to be a track car only then, and I will ride the bus :)
 
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Hmm then there is the hassle of getting the tension right and you will have to keep checking it i would imagine for looseness/belt stretch? this is off the 16v i presume? the 20v one seems more than enough pressure,(esp trying to get them back down) you dont want to strain them super cam bearings by over tightening the manual one...

I have come to realize, from reading other peoples build threads, that after heavily modifying these cars, TLC and regular inspection of things is just going to be a way of life. Its no longer a case of fill up and drive.
I have the urge to change the cambelt every 10k km :)
 
Yeah can see it would be a lot easier than the dreaded pin...it does look a bit more gypsy than OEM TBH...

Hmm then there is the hassle of getting the tension right and you will have to keep checking it i would imagine for looseness/belt stretch? this is off the 16v i presume? the 20v one seems more than enough pressure,(esp trying to get them back down) you dont want to strain them super cam bearings by over tightening the manual one...

One would hope that if one is capable of putting an engine together thats capable of 400hp or more using nice bits like valve train and cams then one would hope that one is competent enough to tension the belt correctly... :)

Granted manual tensioners can be prone to over tightening and there is no need to use one on a relatively std level of tune but on exotic kit they are worth persevering with

<tuffty/>
 
Which belt goes where? I seem to have one belt with grooves running across the belt and another with grooves running along the belt.
Also, the belt that has grooves running long the belt is double sided. Is this so I can use one side, then turn it around when its worn out :huh:
:haha: :laugh:
 
Yeah can see it would be a lot easier than the dreaded pin...it does look a bit more gypsy than OEM TBH...

Hmm then there is the hassle of getting the tension right and you will have to keep checking it i would imagine for looseness/belt stretch? this is off the 16v i presume? the 20v one seems more than enough pressure,(esp trying to get them back down) you dont want to strain them super cam bearings by over tightening the manual one...

Somehow we all managed to use manual tensioners without any issues on older 16v, 8v motors, and now its deemed "difficult"?

man up Dave.. lol

:)
 
So had a brain fart and decided to make my own low profile velocity stacks.

I bought some 12mm aluminium rod and bent it round a 2.1/4" pipe to create 4 rings. Then welded the rings to the manifold plate.


The jig -




the stacks and xcessive plenum that's been modded to open the area up for the stacks to fit.




The result - still need a lot of porting work done to the mouths of the runners.

 
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Nice work dude... good idea :D

<tuffty/>

thanks tuffTy, I just couldn't bring myself to paying the price for real velocity stacks and then still have to weld and port them.

Im sure someone could improve on the design tho.

Other ideas I had were, squashing the circles into ovals. Or using a piece of tube with the circles welded to one end to raise the circles up a bit, like a regular velocity stack.
I went with these as its simple enough for me to weld up with the spool welder. It's like colouring in with aluminium :)