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Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by Scullies, Jan 7, 2013.
not liking that plenum volume dude.. goes some way to explain the fuel trimming... You have email
Well its game over for the time being
Found water in the ecu harness and its rusted/broken/shorted a pin off. The water might have been and issue with weird lambda logs.
Went to start the car this morning, started up and ran for a few moments, then dies and fuel pump relay was clicking on and off randomly. Then the car wouldnt start, checked all fuses and finally check ecu.
Wheres the water come from in Dubai?..
Bad luck mate, but could cure other issues you've had too.....:icon_thumright:
Washing his car all the time from the dust i bet out there As for the plenum get the volume down to about 3 or 3.5L ish
I gave it a wash the other night, since it's been standing for 6 weeks
Seems the rubber seal in the harness wasn't seated properly.
I have managed sort out the ecu, did a bit of pikey job as you guys would say. Stuck a needle into the harness side and squeezed the harness into the ecu. Everything is running as normal with no faults.
Back to logging...
what logger you running? if you haven't got it, go to nefmoto and get the me7 logger...
I have VCDS to do logging, but will have a look at the me7 logger software
So heres a video of the 1st start up, nothing too exciting
Have had some issues with Lambda control, so the HUGE intake mani is off along with the 80mm TB and the stock intake mani and stock TB is on.
Lambda readings almost settle down then shoot up or down for no reason, well no reason I can see. I think it might be the cams.
I must say a big THANKS to Bill for having patience with me :icon_thumright:
the Fastest Colour
thats what I have telling the guys here with mk6 and rocco's, they going to learn the hard way
Now there's a fast mk6
So I had a low oil pressure alarm a week ago, I was very surprised as Main and rod bearing clearances were with in specs when I assembled the engine.
On cold start up the oil pressure was just above 4.5 bar at idle, then once oil was hot the pressure would sit around .8 bar at idle.
I changed the oil for some fresh stuff and the oil pressure was back to normal when hot.
So been driving the car gently while logging lambda control - been a few trips without any oil pressure alarms.
Did have a fault - camshaft to far retarded - Bill said its oil pressure related.
So I dropped the oil pan over the weekend to find a spun rod bearing on #1 cylinder
Crank has some light scoring,can barely feel the scouring with my finger. Rod on the other hand is not so good.
Looks like a new IE rod and oversized rod bearings plus engine strip down to clean the metal fillings out the engine.
I feel your pain as i've have been though that
I will be up and running soon. Have you measured the rod as it might be ok?
What make of shells?
lubed to feck on assembly with engine build paste etc?
that sux dude.. not what you wanted at all. Sorry to hear this
i haven't measured the rod, it's pretty bad and would need machining. So I think it's toast. I will post a picture of the rod a bit later.
Been busy with the stock engine, have to put it back in the car as I need to get the car on the road and through MOT by the end of the month.
Rather disappointing day. Just wish there was something to point to that has caused this. Engine hasnt been revved, all clearances within spec, bolts torqued to ARP specs. The weird thing is the oil pressure was fine when hot then out of the blue driving slowing around a corner, the low oil pressure alarm sounded. There was no weird knocking noises from the engine at all. Cold start up had high oil pressure at idle and engine was quiet, warm engine had lowish oil pressure at idle and engine was still quiet, even with revving the engine.
Yip, tang'd rods, tang'd calico bearings, heaps of assembly fluid on all main and rod bearings.
check the oil filter housing, there's a pressure relief valve in there , I had a similar issue recently and Ben parsons suggested I check this out a I'd checked it out. Low and behold the valve was stuck open with a bit of **** and oil pressure wasn't getting up to its normal pressure. Fortunately I didn't spin a bearing but it was enough to damage the head. I'd never even thought of it so worth checking.
also didn't someone else on here have issues with 2 sets of calico bearings?
Gutted to hear that mate.
So I have taken the time to investigate what might have caused the low oil pressure. The relief valve in the oil filter housing looks fine and no dirt inside the system.
After removing the crank I had a look at the rod journal, its looks bad but feels very smooth to the touch, I think all the black is the coating from the rod bearing.
So I was a bit relieved as I thought I could get away with a regrind of the rod journals, until I had a real close look and found this !!!
So I have pull the 1.8 oil pump drive gear and tossed the crank in the bin.
Futher inspections I found that every main bearing seat in the block has a crack across it, where the oil gallaries are.
Didnt notice this when I bought the block and installed the crank. My guess is that the cracks were there before as I cant see how everyone would be cracked from low oil pressure.
So the block is also in the bin as well, looks like I will be going 1.9 instead of 2.0 now. Was thinking of going 2.1 but seems to be way to much work.
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what was the history of the block & crank?
Bought the block from a scrapyard, the engine was still assembled. Got them to strip it down in front of me.
crank I bought from vortex forum, took a chance, I had it checked at the machine shop before I used it. Crank was true and all journals were good.
The crack in the rod journal was definitely not there when I assembled the engine. Unless it was an under lying issue. Very surprised to see the crack going across the journal and not round the journal.
yea.. very odd
thats such a epic build dude im keeping a close eye here lol
Well I just picked up a 2.0 cast crank, (mk4 2.0 8v motor.) After a lot of negotiating I managed to convince the guys to strip the motor down. The engine was a nice golden colour inside and turned very smooth. So lets hope I can get the ball rolling and get the 20/20 motor back in the car.
Hope so mate.
Amazing build thread! Good luck as you going forward
Great thread, that turbo makes me feel all funny downstairs!!! I feel your pain as my engine's in much the same state :-( Hope you get it sorted, nice tip on the oil pressure valve, gonna check mine tomorrow!
Got the block stripped down this afternoon. Think I got a nice clean engine. When I removed the pistons, you can still see the cross hatch in the cylinders.
not the best picture but you can just make out the cross hatch.
then the 92.8mm crank - AQY
Will drop them off at the machine shop tomorrow to get the necessary done.
I've forgotten how big the webbing on the AQY cranks are
That first picture of the block is that stage mine is in. I pick up my crank on the weekend as its been double doweled to the flywheel now to stop it from twisting on the crank
Yeah they not very pretty looking crankshafts, I just want to stroke it, I need to stroke it.
Do you mean you have double dowled the timing gear or the flywheel?
Crank to flywheel, its to stop the flywheel from moving on the end of the crank
Old school type of engineering but if you don't have a machine shop then IE sell the diamond covered friction disc's that sit in between both of them to stop movement.
Happy days are here, I have picked up the rebored & decked block along with the crank that went in for a journal polish and pinned the timing gear.
I also received my parts from SteveBilt and ECS, Mike at SteveBÃ¯lt resells IE stuff for a few bucks cheaper than IE, he was awesome to deal with. He also managed to sort the invoice out so that I was under the customs duty threshold. So no duties paid
Pictures to follow once I start getting the build on. Going to try a time lapse video of rebuilding the engine. Will see how it turns out.
Wicked news buddy, Glad to hear it will be back on track.
I was going to time lapse of mine but seeing it's taken weeks mostly waiting for parts it'd be boring,LOL
Yeah, I have got everything to build the stroker engine, its a complete separate engine, except for the vvt and acc which are on the running engine.
Have you had any experience with time lapse? Any settings you can recommend. I have a GoPro hero3.
must be a setting to allow it, I was gonna use my dslr's and snap a pic every few mins then glue it all together into a movie. Not used a Go pro for it
The gopro has settings for every 0.5, 1, 2, 5, 10, 30, 60 seconds. I'm guessing every 30sec should be good, gopro software links them all into a video for easy armature editing.
My wife is a professional photographer but she would kill me if I used her gear
I tried out a time lapse video of me removing the inlet valves and seating them again. This is just the removal process using a DIY valve spring compressor that I made using some bits of scrap lying around the workshop.
The plan is to make a time lapse of rebuilding the engine, for those who would like to see how it all goes back together.