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Discussion in 'A3/S3 Forum (8L Chassis)' started by stoneys3, Oct 25, 2010.
what the f*ck is this ok for my s3 because thats what i have been given instead of my amk head.
when the bam engine code is 225 and the amk 210 is this bhp comes in the head as such or....?? because if i now have the apt will it be slower??
I don't know for sure what the difference (if any) is between NA and turbo 20v heads as I think compression is sorted from the pistons, may be worth having a quick google....
oh rite thats ok then. just waiting for my turbo now then rebuild time!
guys i got the same problem, bam faulty head, thinking what to do, what is the best solution? same head or bigger port? if bigger which one and what procedure needed to transfer my vvt on the new one?
Il chip in here, you can use many heads, one being agu, a few more but im not sure, and no you can leave the vvt disconnected. Hope this helps
I'm about to fit a large port head. It cost me £150 for an AEB head and a further £200 to have it refurbed. I then need to transfer my cams and my VVT unit over.
There's info in my build thread (click my signature picture) in the last few pages with links. Tuffty also has a lot of detail in his thread too.
I'm not doing the work until Easter so I cant help at the moment except for the links to guides in my thread.
There's no real point in getting a large port head unless your chasing more power. If you're keeping the car fairly standard or will be happy with as much as stage 2 power you'd be better off just getting another BAM head.
As Westy has said, I have a lot of info in my thread covering this and I have also posted a link in Westy's thread for info on how to remove/refit the head and bits within....
Essentially you use your cams and VVT in the replacement head... going large port is your choice but there may not be much gain if all you are doing is fitting it to a std setup...
Other work to consider will depend on what the replacement head is and its mileage etc... most large ports will have come from high mileage engines so valve guides and stem seals would be a consideration as would relapping the valves to get a good seal... pressure testing the replacement head is a good idea if you are unsure of its history and you may need to transfer all your valve gear too
I normally treat a replacement head as a bare head and transfer everything from the original over to the replacement... do not me tempted to mix valves etc without checking as they can differ across heads depending on model/year
As yours is a BAM then I would assume the mileage would be less than the replacement head so would be worth doing a full transfer getting the exhaust guides replaced if need be and using new stem seal, cam seals and chain tensioner gasket/seal
Depending on what head you end up with you may need to block off the SAI port on teh side of the head and early AEB heads have a raised platform for the tensioner pully so this needs to be machined flush...
Do not leave the VVT disconnected... this will throw a CEL...
Tuffty, my head is currently having the valves re-lapped but will this be to the spec of the valves in the head? Do you recommend I swap my BAM valves into the AEB head when I get it removed?
Ok... in your case doing this would incur cost/delay due to you not having your head available to strip so its going to be your call..
Do you know the mileage/history of the AEB head? things to consider are wear and tear and valve springs etc... if the AEB came from a car that unlikely to have seen the rev limiter then all should be good but its just something to consider seeing as you are not rebuilding with new bits like I did on mine with Supertech stuff..
I also inspect the components for obvious wear and try to use whatever looks to be the best condition bits and go from there...
If the AEB head came from a 200k miles car then might be worth using your bits but at this mileage its gonna be down to what looks the best... if you had like 50k on your BAM engine then its a no brainer... over 100k on either then its a judgement call...
Just don't mix and match...
I dont know the milage of the AEB but I know it came off a passatt so chances of that being modded and having a hard life is quite slim. My head has done 130K, with 23K of that being mapped and driven hard.
I would also like to think that the head place would let me know if anything looked too worn out on the AEB.
I think I'll leave the valves as they are and just swap over the cams and VVT unit.
do the exhaust guides and stem seals and a skim as a minimum imho
no i am not stock, before i was running stock engine with gt28rs , 630 deka decut and custom remap, and now i got je pistons rods and exhaust valves. So what do you recommend for me guys ? my bam head is cracked under inlet valve 3rd piston
Every AEB head i've worked on has always had worn valve guides, The AGU arn't that bad as there not asa old as the AEB
So by having the guides relapped would solve this?
The machine shop will tell you if any valves need replacing if they are re-lapping them..
Keep the AEB valves in the AEB head in the order they came out of the head
You can replace the guide or have them sleeved but with any machine work to the guides the seats are best been recut and lapped in or a good seal