Audi s3 8l 400bhp project

Ashley@B.W.G

Ashley@B.W.G

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Well im new to this forum and was looking a bit of help on my new project, car was misfiring due to head gasket so removed head and realised head was cracked and hot side of turbo was all cracked along with manifold so decided to turn it into a good project.

So what im looking to know is whats the best parts to get to achieve 400hp, what parts to change on engine to hanlde 400bhp and if possible (links) to the best sites to get the parts
 
If you search gt30 or gt35 at top of page you will find a few 400-600bhp builds
 
Tj 0785 said:
If you search gt30 or gt35 at top of page you will find a few 400-600bhp builds
Click to expand...

Thanks tj 0785 is that a thread on this forum im new to the forum world lol
Sorry just seen that you said at top of page.
 
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Your available budget will go a way to dictate the outcome as will engine condition...

Having a solid engine makes a world of difference to final power figures... as yours is in a sorry state I'd concentrate on that first then see what you have left for your power goals...

<tuffty/>
 
Hi tuffty thanks for reply im a mechanic myself so dont have to worry about labour costs and i was thinking along the lines of 5k would it be possible to get that hp with 5k
 
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well... depends on how you go about it... an engine rebuild with decent components can eat half of that in parts alone..

Engine wise and considering the condition you got it you should be checking for bore wear and potentially consider a rebore and new pistons... then rods which is a prerequisite of any 1.8t build..

Cranks are solid and strong, don't wear much but replace all shells... use ARP mains studs and plastigauge the journals to be sure

Stick to OE head bolts if only aiming for 400 hp, OE headgasket is the best choice..

Head wise you will need to get any head you get hold of checked for valve guide wear (particularly exhausts)... valves are another weak point of 1.8t's... supertech inconel triple groove exhaust valves are a solid replacement along with cat cams gold springs...

Inlets are a bit more resilient but supertechs are also a good choice if budget is there

New oil pump and pick up is advisable..

As for turbo setup choice... there are hybrid K04 turbos... useful as its essentially bolt on and off the shelf K04 upgrades all fit but generally speaking you won't get 400hp from them...

There is the K04-064 route but they are tricky (although not impossible) to fit in a quattro car but you will need to fabricate parts such as intakes, downpipes, coolant and oil lines...

Those are the relatively cheaper options... for more flexible options you are looking at turbos like Garretts...

The turbo cost varies a little but will be more expensive overall... the current setup favoured by Bill at Badger 5 is a tubular manifold, external gate and AET GT3076r (billet wheel)... this will essentially cost around 3k alone... and you will still need a downpipe and intake...

Other things of course are an inline fuel pump to support the extra fuelling, larger injectors, decent FMIC, decent exhaust (and not just a miltek as they are restrictive at this level of power)

Then there is the mapping :)

<tuffty/>
 
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Think the k04 hybrids only capable of 360bhp max going by some of the treads iv been reading would that be right? i kind of wanted to keep the engine bay as OE look as possible (sleeper style) regards to mapping could i map the standard ecu that much or would that be another thing to consider, also what cc injectors would i need
 
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Ashley@B.W.G said:
Think the k04 hybrids only capable of 360bhp max going by some of the treads iv been reading would that be right? i kind of wanted to keep the engine bay as OE look as possible (sleeper style)
Click to expand...
Realistically yeah... 360 ish is the upper end of power from them for the most part... one or two have made more but its rare..

If you want a sleeper approach then might be worth reading my thread...

<tuffty/>
 
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I wouldn't worry about the injectors decide on the turbo choice as that will drive a lot of other decisions. Don't think anybody has mentioned the clutch / flywheel. Another expense to think about. Don't skimp on the tuner either, your guy round the corner is not going to get the best out of a build such as this, that is unless his name is Bill, Rick , Niki etc,
I think around the 400bhp mark is where a big port head takes over from the small port. As you need top replace the head maybe decide on which one would be best to get.
 
Heads away getting pressure tested at the minute seen 3 small crack like grooves around the spark plug wholes so hoping its not cracked if alls good with it i was going to get it porteded and polished.
 
Ashley@B.W.G said:
Heads away getting pressure tested at the minute seen 3 small crack like grooves around the spark plug wholes so hoping its not cracked if alls good with it i was going to get it porteded and polished.
Click to expand...
Don't bother spending money getting the small port head ported... save the cash for other things

Std small port head can be used over and above 400hp (nearer 500hp with the right setup) and produces decent low down torque...

For the money spent on porting a small port you could more or less buy a large port head (which will typically flow more than a ported small port does anyway) and supertech valves + cat cams springs..

Porting a large port head will see benefits once you are knocking on the door of 600hp in my experience...

Here is a link to some parts...
http://badger5.biz/epages/3927bc2c-...6a5-d6cca869fcd6/Categories/Shop/Engine_Parts

<tuffty/>
 
Well tuffty i was looking at the badger 5 stuff and i was looking at the k04 hybrid setup with the mani and tip im starting to think now is 400bhp bit too much of a stretch especially if im looking at the hybrid setup

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the hybrid is sold as a 340-380bhp potential............... forget the 400 number, want 400 buy a bigger turbo
 
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Was thinking that because a big turbo setup is going to take a big chunk out of my budget and i dont want to sacrifice quality parts on the engine side of things

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If you want 350 as a min I'd go BT personally

Asking a lot from such a small turbo
 
Could you send me a link for a suitable bt turbo and manifold to suit

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Nortech/TSR manifold and downpipe. Gt3071 - could get a used one
V band exhaust housing
Mvs wastegate - look for used
Get Pirtek to make your lines
Plenty of conrods available in the UK now
Make your own inlet pipe and boost pipes
630cc injectors
Inline fuel pump
Get a head place to fit new guides.
Lap valves in yourself.

Then all the other costly but necessary stuff like gaskets, bolts, seals, rings etc

Could be done for less than 5k if you're patient
 
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Ok so report came back about the head and its cracked need a head before i even do anything. Would be great if someone was selling 1 on here my engine code is AMK

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Would an AGU straight swap

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Would an AGU head be a straight swap

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turbines have a habit of falling apart if run too hard... Bill used one in his test and they now seem to come with a speed sensor... attached that and it was 150,000 and more rpm!!! they tend to fall apart from 120,000 apparently

<tuffty/>
 
Hey sam would tgat aeb head be spot on for what im looking to do hard to know what head fits what with these cars

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Ashley@B.W.G said:
Hey sam would tgat aeb head be spot on for what im looking to do hard to know what head fits what with these cars

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Click to expand...

You will need to swap over the VVT tensioner from your amk head to the AEB for it to work..

If your going hybrid you could just stick with small port..
 
<tuffty/> said:
Not really... all 20v heads fit casting wise.. there are just subtle differences in valve train..

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
So if i was to get a head like AGU/AEB or even BAM alls I'll need to do is swap valves, guides, cams, ect over

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SamHendry said:
You will need to swap over the VVT tensioner from your amk head to the AEB for it to work..

If your going hybrid you could just stick with small port..
Click to expand...
Looking like the im heading that way with hybrid, so just swap all the valve train over then thanks sam

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superkarl said:
I have a spare small port but it's been sat in the cold garage so I've no idea how the bearing faces look. No cams or valvetrain in it
Click to expand...
If you could see what sort of nick its in and let me know and if alls good I'll buy it off you.

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Ashley@B.W.G said:
So if i was to get a head like AGU/AEB or even BAM alls I'll need to do is swap valves, guides, cams, ect over

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Click to expand...
Yep... not forgetting AUM heads are they fitted to most 2001 on Golfs and A3's plus a few others...

AEB heads do have small differences... the mount point for the cam belt tensioner pulley (where it bolts in) is normally flat on 20v heads... AEB sometimes have a small boss that spaces the pulley out... if you get one with that it would need machining off... had this on mine... see here
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/my-minor-modding-thread.76389/page-14#post-977176

The cam pulley on longitudinal engines is different (pulls belt closer to the engine) so make sure you just use your AMK stuff...

Basically as long as your AMK stuff is fine, treat any head you get as bare.... valves differ between turbo (sodium filled) and NA engines... K04 turbo'd engines have shims under the exhaust springs to add much needed preload, have seen collet grooves on 20v valves differ in position from head to head... some are further down the stem restricting lift so don't mix and match without checking...

Cam position sensor wheel needs to be the right one... VVT tensioner requires a multi window wheel... AEB typically come with a single window wheel... use your AMK one which if you are using the cams is not a problem but more just so you know...

<tuffty/>
 
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Thanks tuffy for your help hoping im getting an AMK head from England for £100 plus p£p 77k on it

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no probs... and its tuffty (with a 't') ;)

<tuffty/>
 
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