Audi A4 Cabriolet Soft Top/ Roof / Hood Motor Repair Guide

Hello,

Since I fixed it and when I drive on not to good roads the top makes a rattling noise. And this only at the driver side. Something that I missed?

thanks
 
Hi VagPro,
I am having issues with the roof of my audi (a4 06 s-line cab)
The first time around i had a similar issue a few months back as many above...the windows come down but the roof only lifted an inch up. Took it in and they said that if its not used for a long period of time then it can seize up ...it wasn't the motor so didn't take that much to get it fixed...until today.
It got stuck all the way down - boot lifted an inch then nothing. I struggled to manually shut it myself so had to call upon the RAC to manually shut it. He said he wasn't an expert but didn't think he could here the motor.
Does this sound like the issue?
Not sure how much a new motor would be (??) if this is the problem do i just suck it up and pay a garage to fix it?
Thanks so much hope you can help!
Laura

Hello Laura,

Sounds like your hydraulic with motor is faulty, the motor cost £220 plus VAT. the guide at the front of this post details how to repair the motor, alternatively I also offer repair service.

Regards
Khurrum
 
Hello,

Since I fixed it and when I drive on not to good roads the top makes a rattling noise. And this only at the driver side. Something that I missed?

thanks

Hello,

Well, did you forget to put something back ? Have you got all your tools ? Should be no noises if you followed the guide correctly.

Regards
Khurrum
 
Hello,

Well, did you forget to put something back ? Have you got all your tools ? Should be no noises if you followed the guide correctly.

Regards
Khurrum
Hello,

I just find it out this morning. the 'clams' on the front on the top but on the driver side was very loose. I fixed it but when I tried to open the top it only opened 2 inches. Same problem I had last month. has the clam not well been positioned and there was friction and that stopped the motor? Or are those motor fixes short term solutions. Or do I have an other problem.
My dealer told me that the new pump with motor is 2850 canadian dollar plus tax and plus the installation. just crazy. sending the motor to the UK will cost also a lot in shipping. Can an electric motor repair company fix those problems. are those kind of problems of the motor common problems?
thanks for the help

Nicolas
 
Hello,

I just find it out this morning. the 'clams' on the front on the top but on the driver side was very loose. I fixed it but when I tried to open the top it only opened 2 inches. Same problem I had last month. has the clam not well been positioned and there was friction and that stopped the motor? Or are those motor fixes short term solutions. Or do I have an other problem.
My dealer told me that the new pump with motor is 2850 canadian dollar plus tax and plus the installation. just crazy. sending the motor to the UK will cost also a lot in shipping. Can an electric motor repair company fix those problems. are those kind of problems of the motor common problems?
thanks for the help

Nicolas

Hello Nicolas,

Tell them to do a continuity check on the motor, they will find it is Open Circuit, if they check the power to the motor when trying to operate they will find it is getting power. You can buy and change the motor by itself (about £200+vat).

Regards
Khurrum
 
Hello,

Since I fixed it and when I drive on not to good roads the top makes a rattling noise. And this only at the driver side. Something that I missed?

thanks

Mine sometimes makes a creaking noise, right beside my ear. Cleaning the door seals with the proper rubber cleaner, getting it right up into the groove at the top of the window, seems to cure it.
 
Hi Krumz,

Followed your directions on the original post on how to repair the hydraulic motor brushes (great post by the way) however, I'm still having the same problem. For months the roof has been alternating from working fine to not working at all. At this stage the roof does work at all. The initial response kicks in to lift the roof off the windscreen however the motor does not fire. I remember being able to hear the motor work but now I can't hear anything. What would you recommend the next step is? I'm reluctant to take it to the stealers but I'm now running out of options. How much would it cost to get the cable to run my own diagnostics to get error codes etc? If the electrical motor is the problem would the roof still lift off the car?

Any help you can provide is very much appreciated!

Jim
 
Hi Krumz,

Followed your directions on the original post on how to repair the hydraulic motor brushes (great post by the way) however, I'm still having the same problem. For months the roof has been alternating from working fine to not working at all. At this stage the roof does work at all. The initial response kicks in to lift the roof off the windscreen however the motor does not fire. I remember being able to hear the motor work but now I can't hear anything. What would you recommend the next step is? I'm reluctant to take it to the stealers but I'm now running out of options. How much would it cost to get the cable to run my own diagnostics to get error codes etc? If the electrical motor is the problem would the roof still lift off the car?

Any help you can provide is very much appreciated!

Jim

Hello Jim,

If the car is newer than '06 and the roof lifts and inch and that's it then it's the motor. Either repair as per the guide making sure the brushes are free, or replace the motor.

Hope this helps.

Regards
 
Hi VagPro,

I would like to thank you for your brilliant and patient help on our cabrio top problems. I have the classic "stuck brushes" symptoms and so I completed the rotor cleaning and checked the brushes for free movement. The top will still not move and I do not hear the motor turning. My next move will be to check power to the motor, but I have two questions.
1. Do I have to open and close the roof manually twice with the ignition on in order to get the top working?
2. I have no way to access the VaCom codes: must they be cleared in order for the top to work? Or are they cleared just to see if the faults reappear?

From Montreal Canada, your help is greatly appreciated.

Joe
 
Hi VagPro,

I would like to thank you for your brilliant and patient help on our cabrio top problems. I have the classic "stuck brushes" symptoms and so I completed the rotor cleaning and checked the brushes for free movement. The top will still not move and I do not hear the motor turning. My next move will be to check power to the motor, but I have two questions.
1. Do I have to open and close the roof manually twice with the ignition on in order to get the top working?
2. I have no way to access the VaCom codes: must they be cleared in order for the top to work? Or are they cleared just to see if the faults reappear?

From Montreal Canada, your help is greatly appreciated.

Joe
Following up on my 2007 a4 cabrio, I checked the hydraulic pump
V118 for power with the boot closed and the activation switch on. There is no voltage going to the pump. The fuse S230 is OK. I cannot locate the only other fuse which is S67. Could it be hidden near the control unit J256 beside the rear seat?
 
Hi VagPro,

I would like to thank you for your brilliant and patient help on our cabrio top problems. I have the classic "stuck brushes" symptoms and so I completed the rotor cleaning and checked the brushes for free movement. The top will still not move and I do not hear the motor turning. My next move will be to check power to the motor, but I have two questions.
1. Do I have to open and close the roof manually twice with the ignition on in order to get the top working?
2. I have no way to access the VaCom codes: must they be cleared in order for the top to work? Or are they cleared just to see if the faults reappear?

From Montreal Canada, your help is greatly appreciated.

Joe

Hi Joe,

I have never heard of opening and closing the roof manually after a repair to get it working. Typically you dont need to clear the codes in order for the roof to work. I would strongly recommend getting a copy of VCDS.

When you operate the roof, does it lift an inch ? If so and you are not getting power to the motor, then check for power at the Relay RO/SW wire as per wiring diagram. S67 is a 40amp fuse in the dash drivers side.

Regards
 
Hi Joe,

I have never heard of opening and closing the roof manually after a repair to get it working. Typically you dont need to clear the codes in order for the roof to work. I would strongly recommend getting a copy of VCDS.

When you operate the roof, does it lift an inch ? If so and you are not getting power to the motor, then check for power at the Relay RO/SW wire as per wiring diagram. S67 is a 40amp fuse in the dash drivers side.

Regards
My roof problem is fixed. What happened is that when I cleaned the rotor which was probably the reason for the roof not working in the first place, I blew fuse S67 when my test wire shorted out. I replaced the fuse, but the roof would still not budge. What I did not realize is that in my handling of the pump, I broke the wire leading to valve #3. This was diagnosed and repaired by a local independent garage specializing in Audi-Volks. Thanks again for your help VagPro, I learned a lot from your writings and surely saved money by doing some of the work myself.
Cheers,

Joe
 
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Hi VagPro,

You recipe made my day and made the top work again!! ****** brilliant fix.

Thanks a lot! Thomas
 
Vagpro, do you replace hoods? some ***** slashed mine and I need a replacement done by somebody, thought I'd try you first.
 
Hi, not sure if I'm in the right place to post this as I'm new to this site. My a4 convertible roof only opens about a inch, all the windows drop about 6 inches and that's it. When i operate the switch the aircon/heating display goes off as well. Can you or anyone help
 
Left Darlington last night and decided to go back the a68 to Edinburgh, it was mild, I've got a hat, it was dark, so put the hood down. Wife was at home so even had my own choice of music, yipee, Bose got a good work out and didn't realise just how loud it was till I saw the neighbours peeking out on my touch down. Shut off Dancing Queen, gave them a wave and went to shut the roof, 'click' followed by a sickening silence.

Panic ensued as rain was on the way. Ripped off the bumper trim, no idea where the clips flew off to, got the side trim partially unclipped but couldn't get to the motor because of the roof box so there I was running in and out of the garage looking for stuff to bang the motor with. Brush handle reached but didn't work. Eventually calmed down enough to carry out my first manual close which actually wasn't too bad apart from the obvious embarrassment factor (there's probably a video on YouTube) so decided there and then, @&£x it I'm getting a new motor.

Phoned TPS today £188 plus vat then Audi, £11 cheaper - that's a first.

Stripped my old motor right out of the car this time but before binning it in disgust decided to have another look at it. Commutator was quite dirty again and one of the brushes was stuck. As I had already decided it was scrap I was a bit more forceful with the brush carriers this time, bending them out the full width of the screwdriver blade, about 5mm, which seemed to do the trick. Commutator was also much easier to get properly clean. Refitted and working again.

A long winded way of saying that the brush carriers can cope with being bent out quite far. Stripping the motor right out took a bit longer, a 30 torx is also need for the two screws holding the electric motor to the pump, but it makes cleaning a lot easier, just make sure to keep the whole lot vertical with the hydraulic reservoir pointing down during disassembly so you don't loose any fluid.

Till next time.
 
HI Steve,

Picked up your email, but yes you want to aim for about 1mm clearance around the circumference. Some brush carriers are better than others, yours clearly are OK, but there have been times when I have simply touched them and they have fallen off the circuit board.

Regards

Sounds like I've been lucky, next time I'll maybe send it down to you for a proper refurb. All the best.
 
Hey Krumz,

I have a 2004 A4 Cab and have a following problem with a soft top. It opens, back part of the roof lifts up, the back storage cover lifts up up to certain point and starts falling down losely, leaning on the hood. I tried all the methods of resetting the hood I could possibly find on the internet. Resetting it manually - no luck. Resetting faults in VAG COM, adapting - no luck. Lowering the roof manually with ignition off then switching ignition on and holding on a roof down button for 20s... - no luck. Is there anything else I could try? The only fault I get in VAG COM is: 02000 Switch Position, 0800 Implausible Signal. I haven't tried cleaning the commutator yet. Should I get on it?

Thanks,
Raf.
 
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I'm not sure if this would be relevant but before the problem started I was fully able to operate the roof automatically. It would go all the way down and back up as normal only once. If I tried again, the back storage cover wouldn't lift up at all although I could hear the motor working. I would have to switch off the ignition, take the key out and leave the car for 10-15 mins and then it would allow me to open it only once again.
 
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Hey Krumz,

I have a 2004 A4 Cab and have a following problem with a soft top. It opens, back part of the roof lifts up, the back storage cover lifts up up to certain point and starts falling down losely, leaning on the hood. I tried all the methods of resetting the hood I could possibly find on the internet. Resetting it manually - no luck. Resetting faults in VAG COM, adapting - no luck. Lowering the roof manually with ignition off then switching ignition on and holding on a roof down button for 20s... - no luck. Is there anything else I could try? The only fault I get in VAG COM is: 02000 Switch Position, 0800 Implausible Signal. I haven't tried cleaning the commutator yet. Should I get on it?

Thanks,
Raf.
Yes clean the commutator and check the bushes are not stuck in their housing!
 
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Hey Krumz,

I have a 2004 A4 Cab and have a following problem with a soft top. It opens, back part of the roof lifts up, the back storage cover lifts up up to certain point and starts falling down losely, leaning on the hood. I tried all the methods of resetting the hood I could possibly find on the internet. Resetting it manually - no luck. Resetting faults in VAG COM, adapting - no luck. Lowering the roof manually with ignition off then switching ignition on and holding on a roof down button for 20s... - no luck. Is there anything else I could try? The only fault I get in VAG COM is: 02000 Switch Position, 0800 Implausible Signal. I haven't tried cleaning the commutator yet. Should I get on it?

Thanks,
Raf.
Hi Variosso,

At what point does is stop, does the storage compartment lid open fully and then drop back down on to the rear glass ?

Regards
Khurrum
 
Hi Variosso,

At what point does is stop, does the storage compartment lid open fully and then drop back down on to the rear glass ?

Regards
Khurrum
Hi Krumz,

Compartment lid opens to about 80% and then starts to drop down on the hood. Rear part of the hood stays open and they both, sort of, drop down on each other.

Regards,
Raf.
 
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Thanks bellderelly, I was thinking about giving it a go. I will do it and see if it helps.
 
Hi Krumz,

Compartment lid opens to about 80% and then starts to drop down on the hood. Rear part of the hood stays open and they both, sort of, drop down on each other.

Regards,
Raf.
Hi Variosso,

Microswitch in LHS storage compartment lock. Where about are you in the world ?

Not brushes
in hydraulic roof motor, the B6 was not affected by this design flaw, also the fact that it proceeds further than unlocking is indicative that the hydraulic roof motor is functioning.

Regards
Khurrum
 
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Hi Variosso,

Microswitch in LHS storage compartment lock. Where about are you in the world ?

Not brushes
in hydraulic roof motor, the B6 was not affected by this design flaw, also the fact that it proceeds further than unlocking is indicative that the hydraulic roof motor is functioning.

Regards
Khurrum
I'm in West London. Do you think the microswitch is faulty or needs some alignment?
 
Massive thanks to Krumz for sorting my hood out. I've been struggling all summer thinking it would be something very expensive to fix (fault was diagnosed wrong by a german car "specialist"). Once again a big thanks. You're the man.
 
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Hi Krumz

Fitted my replacement complete hood assembly last week as my old one had a tear. After some initial movement it was obvious that everything was not in sync so I closed it manually. Just for info the old one was working perfectly. The new one was second hand but excluded the hydraulics.

I plugged in VCDS and my block group 001 roof closed were 00111010 10 1010 as opposed to the 11011010 10 1010 they should be.
the open readings were 00100001 101010 as opposed to 00101001 101010 and I have a single implausible position error that comes up.

I tried the channel 01 reset in adaption, but it was already set to 1 and caused an error if i tried 0.

Any ideas, quite happy to pay for the advice.I was going to wait until the spring and just arrange a time for you to sort it but driving it today for the first time it is making a warning noise on the dash when I go slowly over a bump....
 
Hi Krumz

Fitted my replacement complete hood assembly last week as my old one had a tear. After some initial movement it was obvious that everything was not in sync so I closed it manually. Just for info the old one was working perfectly. The new one was second hand but excluded the hydraulics.

I plugged in VCDS and my block group 001 roof closed were 00111010 10 1010 as opposed to the 11011010 10 1010 they should be.
the open readings were 00100001 101010 as opposed to 00101001 101010 and I have a single implausible position error that comes up.

I tried the channel 01 reset in adaption, but it was already set to 1 and caused an error if i tried 0.

Any ideas, quite happy to pay for the advice.I was going to wait until the spring and just arrange a time for you to sort it but driving it today for the first time it is making a warning noise on the dash when I go slowly over a bump....

Hello,

Sounds good, how long did it take you, how far did you have to strip the car down?

Whats the reading in MBV 1-4 ?

This is the bow position sensor, it should be above 200.....

The sensor is on the RHS in rear glass bow , google search 8H0959613 for an image. Is its link arm connected? Does the value in MBV1-4 change as you move the rear glass up and down?

Regards
 
Checked the bow sensor and the one arm wasn't clipped in properly so it was out of alignment. Clipped it and the roof started moved. Opened and closed it once all the n plugged back in my smart top, all good.:applaus:

For everyone's information, the whole roof swap isn't that bad. You remove the rear seat base and side panels and pretty much everything is accessible. Its only a few bolts either side and the whole assembly lifts out. As the roof I bought had all of the hydraulics removed we removed mine from the the old one with a little unthreadling as opposed to disconnecting any fluid pipes and then threaded them back into the replacement roof. The hardest bit was just getting all of the cabling to sit back where it should in a neat and unobstructive fashion. All in about three hours but you do need two pairs of hands for many bits.
 
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I need help, for ages now I've been whacking the roof pump motor to engage the brushes but they have got completely stuck this time so I decided to take the motor completely to pieces and fix it permanently by filling the brushes to make them slide easier but of course to do that you need to get the armature out so I raised the motor as high as it would go to avoid loosing fluid and dismantled the impeller housing, so far so good, I took off the impeller, removed a retaining spring and I'm left with what looks like a silicone seal and the armature wont come out, so the question is what's holding it? do I just need to hit it as hard as I can to release it form the bearing case or what? any help from someone who knows would be much appreciated before I wreck it.
 
I need help, for ages now I've been whacking the roof pump motor to engage the brushes but they have got completely stuck this time so I decided to take the motor completely to pieces and fix it permanently by filling the brushes to make them slide easier but of course to do that you need to get the armature out so I raised the motor as high as it would go to avoid loosing fluid and dismantled the impeller housing, so far so good, I took off the impeller, removed a retaining spring and I'm left with what looks like a silicone seal and the armature wont come out, so the question is what's holding it? do I just need to hit it as hard as I can to release it form the bearing case or what? any help from someone who knows would be much appreciated before I wreck it.

Hello,

Typically if the brushes are stuck you can fix it by prying the carriers apart. The only time I have ever had to take the brushes out is if someone has butchered them. In order to disassemble the motor, you need to take the two screws off that hold the circuit board down and push the spindle out which is pressed in to the housing, MAKE SURE YOU RECORD THE AXIAL POSITION OF THE ARMATURE AND WINDINGS ON THE SPINDLE AS IF THE SPINDLE MOVES RELATIVE TO THE WINDINGS IT CAN BE DIFFICULT TO SET UP.

Regards
 
Hello,

Typically if the brushes are stuck you can fix it by prying the carriers apart. The only time I have ever had to take the brushes out is if someone has butchered them. In order to disassemble the motor, you need to take the two screws off that hold the circuit board down and push the spindle out which is pressed in to the housing, MAKE SURE YOU RECORD THE AXIAL POSITION OF THE ARMATURE AND WINDINGS ON THE SPINDLE AS IF THE SPINDLE MOVES RELATIVE TO THE WINDINGS IT CAN BE DIFFICULT TO SET UP.

Regards
Thanks for the quick reply, OK I have already taken the screws out of the board are you saying the armature then comes out of the bearing or that the windings come of the spindle? surely not.. either way it wont budge how would you make it come off?
 
The spindle with the armature and commutator all come out together from the aluminium casting, you have to press it out in a controlled manner. I have made a tool that bolts to the casting and pushes the spindle out the other end.

I honestly feel there is no need for dismantling the motor, just pry open the carriers.
 

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